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found my issue

1

1998gt

FIREFIGHTER/AEMT
well i pulled the engine on the 98 removed the intake, found that the kid and his father when they did the lower intake gasket they used roloc on the manifold and the heads... damage was already done.... oh well.... i have a 99000 mile engine that im installing in the car.
 


I dunno what you guys are using. I use the brown ones, don't go animal on it and works great. I also keep the material out of the engine.
 
, your litterally adding MILLIONS of leak paths....the RA for a dynamic Oring gasket is very low and i dont think even the blue/red "polishing" discs come close to it....

plus there's that whole TSB from EVERY major manufacturer to not use the roloc discs on internal engine components as the aluminum oxide particles end up on everything...including your hair/arms

i prefer to use a box of single edge razor blades
 


I'm still lol'ing at that...

Cause that roloc is gonna hurt a lot less than whatever explodes and hits him from a performance build breakage.....


~ The Roloc Rebel ~
 


So what about the plastic discs that have all the little bristles? Ive always used white or blue plastic discs and nver had issues.
 
FOR ANYONE THAT READS THIS:

the surface can be perfectly clean and smooth while still having "staining" e.g. you will still see what looks like gasket material/gasket outlines.

THIS IS FINE, the pores of the metal have filled in with material, carbon, graphite, etc. this staining is fine and even good in some ways (if reassembling with same components you not have good casting/core shift idea's of all the parts ad what ports might need adjusting)

BUY a 100 pack of blades, dont buy cheapo's and you still wont blow over 14$ and a holder, clean large flat area's first, scraping and wiping on a towel. then move to the bolt hole area's as the blades get nicked by the burrs, change the blades like you just dont give a **** and youll be fine. to note the graphite headgaskets like to leave graphite in the poores but material still on the surface can blend in...look for the reflection of a light across the surfaces at a steep angle and youll see the dull area's where you missed the graphite...the area's youve cleaned and wiped with a rag (SPRAY THE RAG/TOWEL WITH THE BRAKE CLEANER) will look like glass

this allows you the finesse of removing debris, carefully, and AWAY from the intake ports/etc, while the valley just has rags in it to catch what you miss.

the front/rear cover gaskets and the neck gaskets suck ass but clean blades and a carefull angle will let you slice through em, dont just push, move at an angle to cutting edge.

quick tip, if you flip the blade each time you use it on those PITA paper gaskets (one slice/saw stroke), flip it over and the fine edge burrs will make the next pass perfect, then fip again.

do one without flipping and do it with flipping the blade...and tell me if im nuts

i aint

ll i am, but i aint

bill better coppy this **** somewhere
 
98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
So what about the plastic discs that have all the little bristles? Ive always used white or blue plastic discs and nver had issues.
Click to expand...

still has aluminum oxide in em, in ways they are wores as they tend to leave a groove as someone "cleans" a stained area

i remember one TSB actually listed how much material the discs can remove in less than a tenth of a second....and they stated rotary abrasive devices should never be used on aluminum gasket surfaces, only iron was tough enough. lol

a good tech who masks off everything and is extremely carefull is probably quite lucky, but anything thats missed is dragged through the pump before the filter MAYBE catches it.

i have a front cover from a roloc/rtv engine that i show people ...even a brand new pump scroll has a crapload of play around it, nevermind that the oil passage is about 3/16" dia where the front cover rtv job nearly blocked off the oil passage.

far better sealant choices for that such as permatex aviator sealer, a non hardening sealer that congeals to itself but actually soaks into the paper fibers. plus its thin tar/brush is easy to apply even if yer fingers get sticky
 
i still use mine but its on outside surfaces and with carefull masking if the components are just being R&R'd
shove towel balls in the exhaust ports, clean rust off iron exhaust flanges, gussy it up, that kinda bs...

maybe on a wp gasket for aquick repair job, the problem is that while your grinding away that stubborn piece of gasket, those discs are grinding away alot of the aluminum/material on either side.
besides, a little practice with a razor blade and a cheap holder and youll wonder why the **** you ever used roloc discs.

my green/yellow plastic bristle discs are probably close to 15 years old now....dont use em much unless im completly rebuilding something and can clean thouroughly with my several buckets/bins of kerosene and cans of brake cleaner
 


oh and dont throw away the old dinged up/nicked blades, they work great to scrape thicker rust off the iron block/heads (acc bolt hole area's, PS mounting boss, etc
 
cigarette butts are perfect masking pieces for bolt holes, 8mm they fit perfectly, 10mm holes you can fold in half or shove two next to each other.

that way your not cussing at your self upon reassembly cause the bolts will screw in by finger like that one sloot you played stinky fingers with under the bleachers back in HS
 
yes it was a rod knock. i did talk to the people i bought the car from and he confirmed what they did. oh well i will at least have a decent engine going in
it comes from a 99 lesabre or park avenue. has 100k on it swapping all the parts this week and hopefully installing this weekend
 
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