97 GP GT - Let's project a project car (from trailer to driving)

[BillBoost37]

I typically have the car on stands about a foot to 18 inches off the ground and that's enough.. you might need one or two whacks to get the new bar in.

I usually get one from a monte because it's $10 at the local yards.

 

[penright]

you dont "need" to lower the back of the frame but it adds some extra room to get the bolt on the driver side where all the brake lines snake past.

montes should have a solid bar.

I typically have the car on stands about a foot to 18 inches off the ground and that's enough.. you might need one or two whacks to get the new bar in.

My googling gave me mixed results. Some say lower and some say not. I found this snippet ...


Here is a shot of mine (Hard to see how it's jammed between the steering and firewall) ..


Well I trust you guys more than the internet. Oh wait you two are the internet. Really, neither of you have steered me wrong yet.

My daughter's coil (A/C clutch) went out and all we could find is replace the whole compressor. She found one on the internet, bought it, and gave it to me to install. Did my googling and everybody said you have to pull the compress off the car to replace it. I thought it had enough space to reach in the driver side fender. To make a short story longer, I could almost do it, but the last clip that would have freed the coil, I did not have a pair of snap rings pliers long/strong enough to get it out. So I pulled the compressor. Could have saved a lot of time if I just did it to start with. Even on the workbench I could not get the snap ring out. My bother-in-law had a set of Snap-On and with me holding and him putting all the pressure we finally got it out. Even if I had the good snap-ring pliers not sure if I could have done it on the car.

I will go back and fight it some more. Is there a certain way to spin it, I think I am trying the right way. This is even missing a couple of inches off the end. I will try holding my mouth a different way.

I usually get one from a monte because it's $10 at the local yards.

Our Pull-A-Part (OKC) charges a flat rate for all sway bars. 12$ no matter the make or model. I was hoping it would be easier.

 

[Kejross]

What's up Paul? Getting back into it again huh?

It's really no trouble to lower the rear of the subframe and does make it easier to get it in and out. Just put car on jackstands and put your jack under the rear of the subframe, then back both sides all the way out then turn it back in a few threads so it has something to hang by then lower jack. Or take them all the way out and use jack to support it if you need even more room...


Also, if you haven't yet discovered it... There's an LKQ pullapart just south of 40 on macarthur, was snow on the ground last time I went but they had several 04+ GP's and much more newer model cars than the other pullapart on SE15th

[h=3]LKQ Self Service - Oklahoma City[/h]900 South McArthur Blvd.
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma 73128
(800)962-2277

 

[Scottydoggs]

that how to you found blows for a sway bar swap. do what he said ^^^^^^


your axle is also torn and leaking grease, the frame there where the bushing cap is missing, did you take that off? or did it rot off? make sure the bolt holes are still good, or you'll have to drill and tap new threads and use larger bolts.

should look like this when its in.

 

[penright]

What's up Paul? Getting back into it again huh?

Glad to hear from you KR. Happy belated birthday. Yes, back at it.

Also, if you haven't yet discovered it... There's an LKQ pullapart just south of 40 on macarthur,

No, I missed them. I did google the price for a sway bar, PAP was $12 and LKQ was $20. But as you said, looking at the online inventory did seem to have newer models. Nice to know for future. Found one at A and A $25 them pulling it. They did have a Red 98, makes me wonder how much is a hood. Mine has a lot of hail damage, I was going to test the harbor freight 'paintless dent repair'. Still going to, but wonder about time? Also I have heard that the pro's tend to replace hoods because their metal is hard to move. That's why the total cost to buy the GXP was extra $700.

that how to you found blows for a sway bar swap. do what he said ^^^^^^

Here is where it gets weird. I live about 1 hour from OKC. So for a buck, I wanted to look at what at the local Pull-A-Part(PAP) and see what they had. You can see the store below, but what's funny, is it came out with a hard pull.

your axle is also torn and leaking grease

The boot is actually the steering dust cover. I do think it is leaking, that is why I was looking around some of those threads. May have to rebuild it some day. My 06 has quit, not sure why.

the frame there where the bushing cap is missing, did you take that off? or did it rot off? make sure the bolt holes are still good, or you'll have to drill and tap new threads and use larger bolts.

I took them off. Not bad shape though. Threads are good. Again more store below.


Here is what I found (what looks like rust is grease with Okla red dirt) ....


I am worried that it is going to fit my 97 GP. I thought 97 through 03 would work. I found this on a 03 SE. I am assuming the SE would not make a difference. Removing it seem about the same util I started to pull the bar out. Gave it a hard pull and popped out. It's a lot easier getting abusive doing a JY pull.
Anyway, some of the threads I saw talked about a 33mm. This one was thicker (around), so I assumed that what it was and the end was solid. For $12 buck, or at least that what it should have been. The guy asked me front or rear, I said front. When I got back to the office I saw he rung up a rear which is about $3 cheaper. I will pay them back next time I am in there, not going to make a special trip for $3.

So I google my trusty Rockauto to see what years have the same partnumber, my poor mans interchange list. Here is what I found.

[TABLE="class: layout, width: 885"]
[TR]
[TD]All Vehicles > PONTIAC > 1997 > GRAND PRIX > 3.8L V6 > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar Assembly[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="class: main, width: 885"]
[TR]
[TH]1997 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 3.8L V6 : Suspension : Stabilizer Bar Assembly [/TH]
[TH="colspan: 3, align: center"]Price[/TH]
[TH="align: center"]Add to Cart[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR="class: part0, bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD][TABLE="class: parts, width: 767"]
[TR]
[TD="class: left"][TABLE="class: layout, width: 542"]
[TR]
[TD]DORMAN Part # 927110 More Info {#10243923}
Rear[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[TD="class: right, align: right"]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[TD="class: right, colspan: 3, align: right"]$51.79[/TD]
[TD="class: center, align: center"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: part1, bgcolor: #E0E0E0"]
[TD][TABLE="class: parts, width: 767"]
[TR]
[TD="class: left"][TABLE="class: layout, width: 693"]
[TR]
[TD]DORMAN Part # 927100 More Info {#10257316, 10257317, 10284146, 10287717, 10287944, 10404184, 10413385, 25861193, 25861194, 25861195, 25861196} Includes end links and bushings, center brackets, bushings
Front; 33 mm Diameter[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[TD="class: right, align: right"]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
​

I am hoping that red 10284146 is the same as the yellow. The "More Info" called those numbers the 'OEM alternate part numbers'. Summit call called that the "Chevrolet performance shaft". Again, just hoping it fits.

I do have some installation questions. When I pull off the old bushing caps they were rusted on. Should I coat the bushing, links, or basically any rubber that touches metal. Will this help keep them from rusting to each other? Will the grease deteriorate the rubber faster?
Also 98GrandPrixIraqVet talked about wrapping with teflon tape. I am assuming that for the hard rubber kind or should I do it with these? Plumbers type of teflon? He said use White lithium, what about Red?

 

[Scottydoggs]

wrap a few times around where the bushing lives on the bar, then smear some grease on the inside of the bushings. this will keep them from squeaking. the bar moves inside the bushings.

that bar looks to be solid too. nice find there.

id take that bar into the parts store and match up a set of new bushings for it. and a pair of end links as well. unless those look usable. looks like they unbolted for ya. one good sign.

 

[penright]

The good news, it fits. Looks like there is just one bar, the new one is on top. Also the diameter is same as old.


The links on the left are the one I bought last year knowing the ones that were on the car were broke when I bought it. I like them better and the ones I got today. The caps and bushing that I got today are better than what was on the car.

 

[penright]

Other good news, the old bar came out and new went in without dropping the cradle. I did not have any one to help film, I have a couple of pictures to explain it.



I removed and inserted from the driver side. The main reason I picked that side is because I had already pulled the tie rod to replace it. So snake it out, try to rotate it vertical, then rock it up and down while pulling it out. I think the bar is bending somewhat. The picture are putting it back. The bottom one you can see how if turn vertical, it almost clears the cradle. Looking at the top picture, as I rock it up down and push in, you can imagine the end (lower picture) creeping up the cradle. Once it has worked on top, push through.

 

[penright]

The frontend is now finished. In fact, unless I find something else, the drivetrain is done. She is back on all fours, the first time since July of last year. There was lot's of rust. I am pretty sure this car spent it's life in Oklahoma, but if I did not know better I would think it came from near a coast. The rust was only on the suspesion which makes me think.... Every place where rubber had rubbed off paint there was rust. Maybe, it was sitting and without the parts moving allowed water to sit and rust, where if it was driving then the movement would have kept the rust off. Maybe water just works into where the rubber sits and is trapped. Either way, I still painted it, knowing the first time around the block it will wear off. At least she looked good for the glamor shot. Next on the agenda is getting the back window tint removed, putting the driver seat back in temporly, taking to town for algiment and rear window tint.

 

[BillBoost37]

Where is the ABS connector holder/backing plate that should be behind your wheel bearing?

PS.. told ya so on the bar, darn internet...lol Lowering the subframe in my book, makes it easier to get to the bolts.

 

[penright]

Where is the ABS connector holder/backing plate that should be behind your wheel bearing?

It is, may be an optical illusion because of the black paint. Keep me honest.

There are a lot of people gripe about ABS. My 06 doesn't have it and I was spoiled on my 02. Last fall a deer jump out with me doing 65, next thing I know I am sliding backwards through a hay field NASCAR style. Praise God, there was no fence or ditch, just drove out and kept on going. In all fairness it was the swerving that got it more, but the back brakes locking up did not help.

Thanks for your time on this project.

 

[BillBoost37]

Sounds like fun.. after you could joke with buddies about it.

I still have trouble understanding how they went from ABS on everything to .. it's an option!

 

[Kejross]

Glad to hear from you KR. Happy belated birthday. Yes, back at it.

Thank you sir! I feel ya on getting sidetracked, I took the topend off the engine in my GTO last november, bought a replacement a couple months ago and still haven't touched it lol

No, I missed them. I did google the price for a sway bar, PAP was $12 and LKQ was $20. But as you said, looking at the online inventory did seem to have newer models. Nice to know for future. Found one at A and A $25 them pulling it. They did have a Red 98, makes me wonder how much is a hood. Mine has a lot of hail damage, I was going to test the harbor freight 'paintless dent repair'. Still going to, but wonder about time? Also I have heard that the pro's tend to replace hoods because their metal is hard to move. That's why the total cost to buy the GXP was extra $700.

Is it the whole tool kit to rub them out from behind like the pros do or one of those glue on pull from outside kits? I haven't heard anything good about the later, and the first takes some skill from what very little I have seen. I know Shawn on our GP facebook page has a flawless hood for like $50, I'd personally try my hand at painting that rather than doing the PDR. The metal is just so darn thin on hoods I don't see it working very well.

 

[penright]

I still have trouble understanding how they went from ABS on everything to .. it's an option!

The next feature they (GM) did away with the GP and then Pontiac. :-(

Is it the whole tool kit to rub them out from behind like the pros do or one of those glue on pull from outside kits?

Yes it's the latter. Thats the great thing about this car, I can't make it worse.

Which leads me to the next task, rear window tint. Heres the before:



The sides don't look too bad. I think I can replace the back maybe a littler darker than the sides and it will hide the fact they don't match. Maybe it will look intentional. I not sure if I can get something applied cheaper because I have the interior out? Just in case I wanted to remove what I had first, they charge at least as much to remove as to install. Since this is a "TEST" car, why not try it? Did the googling, went with the "black trash bag" technique. Did not work. Been scrapping for two nights and I am about half way done. And yes I am being as careful as I can about the defrost lines. I google how to repair them first. I will snap another shot of the "mess" tonight.

If I have the tint professionally installed, I want to do while I have the car in town for the alignment. That's why it's next on my list. I may try the tint myself, but trying to lift the trash bag into position may have discouraged me. Not sure, but if I can't do it with the middle stoplight removed, then there is no way I would try one with all the interior. I am open to suggestions for getting "the now ripped up" tint off.

 

[Scottydoggs]

if you use a heat gun to shrink the tint while its cut to fit on the outside of the cars glass you dont get those bubbles. watch a few youtube vids, its rather easy if you have the skills for it. that would be taking your time. cant rush this.

i did my own tint. came out ok. i want to redo the 4 doors. the first one i did the bottom pulled up, the other back door i put a nice scratch in it. thinking about taking the door glass out to re install, those side frames blow to get real clean and sealed good.

 

[penright]

if you use a heat gun to shrink the tint while its cut to fit on the outside of the cars glass you dont get those bubbles. watch a few youtube vids, its rather easy if you have the skills for it. that would be taking your time. cant rush this.

Here's one that I thought was good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZdYXp_mC-A If the link goes away here is how I googled (how to tint windows yourself a1 tint).

I have been using a heat gun and a mixture of amoniona, soap, water to to work my way down. Since the defrost lines are rough the tint glue sticks really well. I may be going good and then hit a defrost line. Thats when I need to hit it the hardest with the razor and I can't. Any good sources for the tint kit or just google? Going back after the glue spots is going to be fun/NOT.

 

[BillBoost37]

I took the rear off my car when I got it...purple and bubbly.. it was a pain and sure enough I slipped and tagged a line or two. Now there'a s hot spot in the tint this year from the defroster getting ready to burn a hole in it.

 

[Scottydoggs]

search ebay for pre cut window tint. its what i did. its not pre cut per say, but has a perforated out line you cut on, final fit and shrink to the out side of the glass, then take off the clear plastic film that should be facing up/ at you. then take it off the outside glass and put it on the inside after soaking the inside glass and tint, then squeegee the air and water out.

the black boarders of the back windows you need to scrub the crap out of that part with -000 steel wool to clean it, or the tint wont stick well.

 

[REDCRAPGP]

Hehehe

 

[penright]

I took the rear off my car when I got it...purple and bubbly.. it was a pain and sure enough I slipped and tagged a line or two. Now there'a s hot spot in the tint this year from the defroster getting ready to burn a hole in it.

Bummer, Looking at the video it does not look hard to fix, but discovering after tint. I am not sure if you could scrape the tint just perfectly over the line and get a goodenough bond. If you could if may not be too noticeable. Not sure if the tint would start to separate from the glass? I did plan on checking the read window defrost out before putting on the tint. The other thing is finding the break. You would have to poke holes in the tint to check for continuity. I guess a pin would minimize it. Bummer.

Now if our kids could just learn from our mistakes. The questions is, if our kids did learn and not make the same mistakes, then what would their kids do?