97 GP GT - Let's project a project car (from trailer to driving)

[TLSheff]

I saw in one of your post about getting an oven in your shop to powder coat small parts. At sometime I was going to ask about that. I assume it is a do it yourself powder coating. Where do you buy the material? I guess the process creates a mess, that is why I don't want to use the wife's. How hard is the process? Expensive? Maybe when you get sometime, you can show me how.

Custom Powder Coating

How do "delete the "5th soft line""? I did some googling and did not see it.

ZZPerformance - 5th Stainless Brake Line #ZZ-5BRKLN

He used one of these, its just a short piece that connects 2 metal lines and factory line is rubber. Using the SS line helps keep pressure up and replaced old parts that are old. lol Not necessary but a good option to look at if you have the budget.
Old thread but good info regarding it here.

 

[penright]

Here are my thoughts as of today, as you all know things keep changing. I ran across a GP at the local pull a part, that someone must have just replaced the front end and back end. It had new CV (don't think they would have fit my 97), really good taillights, with a blown motor. One thing I needed was a deck lid latch, this car looked brand new. One of the bearings is already gone. Since pull a part pulls the wheels and tires, I can't see how much play there is, unless someone has a trick? I was going to make a bar that I can bolt on, to see if there is any play, I have not had a chance to try that yet. Back to the story, the wire loom was spotless, my car is only two years older and mine is dusty. So for ten bucks apiece, new rotors, these look brand new ....20130719_200956_zps9a385f3f.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket So no Fbody mods AT THIS TIME . I still need to do the front, but I will do it when do the front bearings and tie rods.

She may not want it, but I starting to think this may be a good car for the granddaughter. This is really starting to clean up. Once I get the front bearings, tie rods, valve cover gaskets, and finish flushing the radiator, I would not be afraid for her to drive it. Now until the cosmetics stuff is done, she may not want to.

Got the trunk done. Here are the befores... 20130719_200956_zps9a385f3f.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket ,
20130617_191711_zpsc06ebb95.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket,
20130617_191748_zps500a8ed2.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
and the after 20130719_185956_zps7f14402e.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket,
20130719_191717_zpse6f3da67.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
No rust in the jack, found a spare tire cover that wasn't busted, clean carpet, new deck lid latch, and put it back together. The old deck lid latch would buzz but not pop the trunk.

Do have one question, before the spare tire, there is stireform that holds the jack, there is a threaded piece that has a yellow rubber over the threads. What is that?

 

[TLSheff]

97-03 GPs should all look like this. Let me know what number you are referring to and I can provide GM#s for them. Pulled straight from my catalog at work.

 

[penright]

97-03 GPs should all look like this. Let me know what number you are referring to and I can provide GM#s for them. Pulled straight from my catalog at work.

I can't tell which one from the drawing. I think it's either 8 or 9.
What is 6, 7, 8, and 9? 14 is the nut that holds the jack, is 6 the valve stem?

Here the picture I took after getting it at pull - a - part.
20130724_120906_zps79b12fe0.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
I hate showing my ignorance, but I am just curious what it is used for?

 

[TLSheff]

Yes #6 is the valve stem for the spare tire.

#7- Jack Warning Label
#8- Spare Wheel Stow Bolt Extension
#9- Spare Wheel Stow Guide

#14 is likely what you are after. Jack Stow Retainer (40mm wing span) GM #10430943

 

[penright]

Yes #6 is the valve stem for the spare tire.

#7- Jack Warning Label
#8- Spare Wheel Stow Bolt Extension
#9- Spare Wheel Stow Guide

#14 is likely what you are after. Jack Stow Retainer (40mm wing span) GM #10430943

I have #14, I actually now have 8 and 9. I just curious what they are used for? I was hopping to know by looking at the names, but why do you need a stow bolt extension or guide? Did the picture help?
[edit]
Read the manual, I hope I don't lose and points on the man card. I guess when you have a flat and change to the spare. You can put one you pulled off in the spare tire spot by using the extension. I wonder how the cover would fit?

Any the warning label has a part number. Wow, I thought I was OCD.

 

[penright]

Thought about replacing the seals in the rack. The PS fluid was low, have not seen any drips yet, but my two 06's need it, this is the purpose of car, is to try something that I might not try on my drivers. I say this before I get the "Just get a reman" quotes. Some of the questions I asked on the other thread, but I thought this one may have a different audience.

I found this thread on R&R, but nothing on replacing seals. As I said, I have two 06's that could use it, from some chatter it sounds like the experience may be the same. Here's the thread : http://www.grandprixforums.net/04-rack-pinion-replacement-2868.html
Also another reason I think the experience would be the same, is I looked on rockauto and both kits seem to have the same part number, which leads to some questions ...

I wonder if anyone has any experience replacing seals?
TL, Would you have an exploded diagram of a 97 and 06 to compare?

I am a little confused about the parts.
This picture says "W/Magnetic Variable Assist" More Information for ACDELCO 36348363
and this one does not say either way More Information for DORMAN 905515
The 97 and the two 06's does not have MVA, while my 07 GXP does. So which kit is right for the 97 and 06s?

Also in the spirit of testing, I really stepped out on a limb. I bought new both wheel bearings and both tie rods ends on ebay. Both wheel bearing shipped was $60 and both tie rods shipped was $18. Again, before I get the "you get what you pay for" posting, this is the purpose of this car. I did get the bearings and the box, color, and from China reminds me of the ones I bought from O'REilly's. The only difference is there was no instructions on being careful on the torque for the axle nut. If I remember right it was 150 ft pounds. Still waiting on the tie rod ends. I would like to make a decision on resealing the rack before I replace them. Them being the wheel bearings, tie rods, and links.


Still got plenty to do, and school starts back 8/19. Next post, I may start a punch list.

Just a start, not all inclusive, and not in order ....
1. :th_thumb-up:valve cover gaskets
2. :th_thumb-up:flush, new thermostat, :th_thumb-up:clean overflow tank, and refill with antifreeze
3. replace carpet
4. :th_thumb-up:replace shifter cable
5. replace both front wheel bearings
6. replace both outer tie rods
7. replace both sides sway bar links
8. finish headliner
9. remove rear tint ( while all trim is out for carpet/headliner) Since everything is out of car, see if I can get a deal on re-tint.
10. :th_thumb-up:look at and remove side windows, if quality is good enough, may just try and match the rear as close as possible. Not sure if I want to tackle tint just yet. The sides look pretty good, I think I will just do the rear.
11. install remote start
12. Add flasher to mirror upgrade.
13. Add Pontiac projectors to the doors.

 

[Scottydoggs]

cant help on the seal repair.

but the magna steer, you'll want to look at the part of the rack where the column bolts to the rack, from the side of the rack by the boot there you'll see a wire coming from it. if you dont have magna steer theres no wire from the rack.

some have it some dont. check your cars first, then order the parts.

 

[AKGTP19]

I love red coupes. Makes me miss my old one. Looks good man keep up the good work.

i had a red one, they really are nice

 

[penright]

Work, School starting, and just other distractions, finally got to spend some time on the project. When you looked into the coolant over flow jug (COFJ), it was crusted with Dex. Pulled the thermostat out to give it a good flush and it was coated with brown gum. I will edit this with the thermostat picture later.
Before all of COFJ, Before Close up inside

Pulled the jug out and used some kind of soapy stuff I have for detailing engines. I threw in some small nuts and shook hard. Worked pretty good but there were some streaks that you could see. Then I added a red shop towel and that worked like a champ.
After all of COFJ, After Close up of inside

On a 97 the jug is on the left side and you need to move the air box out of the way. While I had it out and the seats and carpet out I replaced the shift cable. I don't remember what year I got the replacement on out of, but it was about foot shorter. I went ahead and put it in. It fit around the air box OK, but not as much room as the original. I will edit later with a picture when it is all back together. Right now I need to adjust it. With the shift in park, the trans leaver is about half way there. Also while I had it this far I replaced the rear valve cover gasket. While I was that far I flushed the heater core. I want to get some radiator flush and run through and maybe some seafoam, then drain and replace with new thermostat, antifreeze and fresh oil. Need to look at the list, but this should button up under the hood. At least till it time to start modding

Picture of thermostat, you can see how gum up it was inside ...
Pix of Thermostat

 

[Kejross]

What size/specs? I am not against buying a new tool. If not something special, I may have it. Back in the racing days we had some left handed taps. It was for when we made a rod with spherical ends, so as the bar was turned the length could be adjusted. I had a tool box stole from my friends garaged and lost them. :-(
[Edit] Found this posting from TL. http://www.grandprixforums.net/f-body-caliper-bracket-70243.html

Yeah that link has the specs, I couldn't find a 12mm drill bit anywhere so I got the standard conversion size. Don't have them here at my house but I wanna say it was like 35/64ths or 31/64ths. I just pop them on the drill press so the holes are nice and straight and the bit will pretty well center itself.

I saw in one of your post about getting an oven in your shop to powder coat small parts. At sometime I was going to ask about that. I assume it is a do it yourself powder coating. Where do you buy the material? I guess the process creates a mess, that is why I don't want to use the wife's. How hard is the process? Expensive? Maybe when you get sometime, you can show me how.
Also, do you know where we can pick up CAN spray clear coat?

It's fairly cheap to get started and a pretty easy process. I buy my colors off ebay in 1-5lb packages. You buy a cheap oven off craigslist($50-75), then buy the harbor freight powder coat gun/kit (was like $75??), then you sandblast your parts, clip your alligator lead to the part or the wire hanging the part and spray your powder then bake at roughly 350 for about 15-20 minutes. The colors will have temp and time... The alligator lead runs a current through the part which attracts the powder to the part.

How do "delete the "5th soft line""? I did some googling and did not see it.

He used one of these, its just a short piece that connects 2 metal lines and factory line is rubber. Using the SS line helps keep pressure up and replaced old parts that are old. lol Not necessary but a good option to look at if you have the budget.
Old thread but good info regarding it here.

Actually.... I bought a stick of brake line(1 foot I think) that already had the fittings on the end and bent it to shape with my tubing bender. Did I notice any difference from all the braided stainless lines and 5th hard line?? No, not really...

Work, School starting, and just other distractions, finally got to spend some time on the project. When you looked into the coolant over flow jug (COFJ), it was crusted with Dex. Pulled the thermostat out to give it a good flush and it was coated with brown gum. I will edit this with the thermostat picture later.
Before all of COFJ, Before Close up inside

Pulled the jug out and used some kind of soapy stuff I have for detailing engines. I threw in some small nuts and shook hard. Worked pretty good but there were some streaks that you could see. Then I added a red shop towel and that worked like a champ.
After all of COFJ, After Close up of inside

On a 97 the jug is on the left side and you need to move the air box out of the way. While I had it out and the seats and carpet out I replaced the shift cable. I don't remember what year I got the replacement on out of, but it was about foot shorter. I went ahead and put it in. It fit around the air box OK, but not as much room as the original. I will edit later with a picture when it is all back together. Right now I need to adjust it. With the shift in park, the trans leaver is about half way there. Also while I had it this far I replaced the rear valve cover gasket. While I was that far I flushed the heater core. I want to get some radiator flush and run through and maybe some seafoam, then drain and replace with new thermostat, antifreeze and fresh oil. Need to look at the list, but this should button up under the hood. At least till it time to start modding

Lot's of people(me for one) switch to the newer version of the overflow tank like the 99+ cars have. It gives you more room for intake stuffs on the side and in my opinion looks "cleaner". What kinda coolant did you go back with? I always made sure to get the "conventional green" they sell all kinds of green coolant but most of it is really still dexcool unless you get the real deal old stuff.

 

[penright]

Played hooky from the studies on Monday to work on the project car (TPC). Glad I did, the tie rods ends were not the right ones. . Lets see if I can get the cheap mail order swapped out. Again, all this is an experiment. They are about inch and half too short, I am afraid that there is not enough threads. If you look at the picture the designs look good, I like the grease zerk, how the rubber boot is clamped on with a rings, and the weep hole to keep from blowing out the boot.
Both of Tie Rods Ends side by side


Did get the passenger side, wheel bearing, rotor, and sway bar links done.
Before:
Rotor, not much left
Sway Bar Link, this side is better than the other, it busted in half
After:
Rotor and new bearing
Sway Bar Link, Not bad considering from a salvage

 

[penright]

I mention when I started the thread that I had one more semester. Just took the last finial, hopefully the last finial of my life. This Saturday our neighbor’s boy is getting married and besides I still have some ice in the driveway. Soon though and I will be back on it.

For now since there is no more school not any football till Cotton Bowl, I need some good weather and it’s time to start backup.

To refresh the current status, I was replacing the wheel bearing, outer tie rods, drag link, and rotor. I got the passenger side done except for the tie rod. Those have come in.

Now just for some warm weather.

 

[penright]

Finally spent some time on TPC. It has been so long, I had to re-read the posts to remember what I was doing. Back in march I started a punch list. I have finished the valve cover gaskets, flush and clean radiator, replace the sway bar link, and replaced shifter cable. I had pulled the interior to get at the headliner, carpet, shifter, and rear tint. As I said, I had one wheel bearing replaced and when I went to do the tie-rod the ones that shipped were the wrong ones. That was where I left off going back to school. After I finished, weather was too bad to work on it. After weather got better, seemed to have something that had to get done every Saturday. I did receive the correct tie-rods, finished off the passenger and started on driver side last night. I pulled the tie-rod off and then went to remove the sway bar link. The bolt was rusted all the way through.


Check this out:



Here is a close up of the crack:


This picture is more detailed:



So now I guess I need to add replace sway bar. I thought about pull-a-part, but as we all know GP are bad about this. Don’t really want to spend the money right now on a performance one. I might try and weld it, not like it going to turn on me if it breaks. I don’t know yet. Also started pulling the tint off the back glass. As you can imagine, it will be fun.


So here is my updated punch list.
1. replace both front wheel bearings
2. replace both outer tie rods
3. replace sway bar
4. replace both sides sway bar links
5. remove rear tint ( while all trim is out for carpet/headliner) Since everything is out of car, see if I can get a deal on re-tint.
Get car aligned and rear window tinted
6. finish headliner
7. replace carpet
8. install remote start
9. Add flasher to mirror upgrade.
10. Add Pontiac projectors to the doors.

 

[Scottydoggs]

just buy a doman sway bar, its solid and under 100 bucks on line. even comes with new end links. id use some moog bushings tho, the dorman bar bushings suck.

 

[16MustangVet]

X2 doreman and moog end links and sway bushings, wrap some teflon tape around the sway where the bushings go and them put some white lithium grease on it that bar should never squeak again!.......

 

[penright]

wrap some teflon tape around the sway where the bushings go

Just too funny, NOT what you said but how I read it. The first couple of times I missed the part about "teflon" and "where bushing go".
I mean Mythbusters proved how far you can push duct tape, but I guessing even it has it's limits.

just buy a doman sway bar, its solid and under 100 bucks on line. even comes with new end links. id use some moog bushings tho, the dorman bar bushings suck.

I hear you. My thoughts are, "I know that was the first mistake ", just get it somewhat reliable going down the street. To that end I am tempted to hit the local Pull-a-part ($11), but would I find anything better? Just weld it to get it back on it's wheels? I have to pull it anyway, so I might see what it looks like out of the car.
I know it's been over a year and still not there yet. But once I get a good base line then I can start to tweak. If I was going to spend a $100, maybe add the $80 for some performance? How much I do depends on how it looks and drives when we get to the base line.

 

[BillBoost37]

You could get a sway from an 00+ monte carlo. It's the same as the GMPP bar and would be less cost to pull from a yard.

As for the cracked bar, that is a w body standard option.

 

[penright]

You could get a sway from an 00+ monte carlo. It's the same as the GMPP bar and would be less cost to pull from a yard.

As for the cracked bar, that is a w body standard option.

First post from tap. Actually second, it doesn't seem the first went through or there may be two.
Do I hear you saying pulling one out of a Monte is easier?
Didn't get to spend much time tonight, had to mow (1 acres), mower wouldn't start, bla, bla. Pulled the links and the mounts, but the curves were hitting between the engine and fire wall. On a 97 do you have to lower the engine cradle? If so are the bolts long enough or do I need to support it with a jack? Is that why you suggested the Monte for the u-pull-a-part?
You said 00 plus, how far (upper year)?
Thanks again.

 

[Scottydoggs]

you dont "need" to lower the back of the frame but it adds some extra room to get the bolt on the driver side where all the brake lines snake past.

montes should have a solid bar.