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What is ING-1 fuse #21 ?

Jtiger360

Jtiger360

New member
My radiator fan died and before I shell out few hundred for a new fan assessable, I wanted to check the fuses and relays with my multimeter and since I had the tools with me I said heck, I check all my fuses well I am here. Every fuse and relay passed on the whole fuse box expect the ING1 fuse #21. I pulled it and replaced it with a new 15amp fuse, it was defiantly blown (was disconnected inside, see pic) I am still a noob in training, what does ING1 fuse #21 do? (2001 Grand prix GT)

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i meant as you put it in, or when it was first restarted, then you may have a bad wire, but it seems this fuse just blows from time to time like any other fuse can.

clear the code if you have a scanner, or pull the battery for 30 minutes to clear the code, then drive on and see if it comes back. if it dont come back in a day or two your all fixed up.
 


Scottydoggs said:
i meant as you put it in, or when it was first restarted, then you may have a bad wire, but it seems this fuse just blows from time to time like any other fuse can.

clear the code if you have a scanner, or pull the battery for 30 minutes to clear the code, then drive on and see if it comes back. if it dont come back in a day or two your all fixed up.
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Have not started the car yet, I check the fuse tomrrow. I'll reset the computer using batt, I do not have a code reader yet, I been using Auto Zone in the meanwhile, but I do plan on buying one. I am trying to self tech myself to fix my own car tired of this $100-200hr labor bull crap the shops try to pull for easy jobs! Thanks for the help man!! I am buying a repair guide when I get paid next week.
 
amazon and ebay have a code reader for like 12 bucks and 2 more for shipping or so, its less then 20 bucks, and its reads, and clears codes great.

of if you have a droid phone you can get the torque app, its also reads and clears codes, as well as a sh it load of live data. all for less then 20 bucks.

and read through the how to section, any how to here will give you any short cuts, most have the tools needed too, and have pics. makes it all look easy. way better then a manual. ( and free) at least you have a idea what your in for.
 
Scottydoggs said:
this is the one i got and a few others here also picked it up.
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Scottydoggs said:
http://www.amazon.com/OBDII-Engine-Scanner-Trouble-Reader/dp/B000LEPT5G/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_2 shop around some more you'll find it cheaper.
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Sweet thanks!!

Scottydoggs said:
i meant as you put it in, or when it was first restarted, then you may have a bad wire, but it seems this fuse just blows from time to time like any other fuse can.

clear the code if you have a scanner, or pull the battery for 30 minutes to clear the code, then drive on and see if it comes back. if it dont come back in a day or two your all fixed up.
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Codes reset, came back on in 10mins, I check the new codes tomorrow. I got a bran new MAF (after market part) installed, maybe it not working because it not an OME part idk!
 
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Scottydoggs said:
i meant as you put it in, or when it was first restarted, then you may have a bad wire, but it seems this fuse just blows from time to time like any other fuse can.

clear the code if you have a scanner, or pull the battery for 30 minutes to clear the code, then drive on and see if it comes back. if it dont come back in a day or two your all fixed up.
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Fuse blew out agaien :( now what? The fuse did not blow when I put it in, I tested it, it blew well I drove/started the car.
 
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start with checking the maf wires to its plug, look for cracks or missing insulation. you may have to take the wire loop and any tape off the wires to check them well.

if that looks ok then maybe pull the fuse box out and look fr a bad wire back there.
 
Scottydoggs said:
start with checking the maf wires to its plug, look for cracks or missing insulation. you may have to take the wire loop and any tape off the wires to check them well.

if that looks ok then maybe pull the fuse box out and look fr a bad wire back there.
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Thanks, how do you remove a fuse box lol? Defiantly going disconnect the batt for project!
 
i drive a regal so im not sure how yours comes out. im sure its just bolted in.

stick your nose in there, give a good sniff. if something burnt up you can smell it most of the time.

battery un hooked good idea lol

may sure the maf wires are good before you go that far. start with the easy stuff.
 
Scottydoggs said:
i drive a regal so im not sure how yours comes out. im sure its just bolted in.

stick your nose in there, give a good sniff. if something burnt up you can smell it most of the time.

battery un hooked good idea lol

may sure the maf wires are good before you go that far. start with the easy stuff.
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Got it! I made a huge noob mistake, I noticed my oil level was very very low all 5 holes where uncovered and I went out and bought 5qt of oil 10-30 and poured it all in there like a noob not realizing that there still oil left and now I over filled the oil and I don't have tools to drain some of the oil! Is it safe to drive to a shop or should I just buy the tools and drain it my self?! IDK if the shop will charge me.
 
From the bottom line to the top is 1 quart. aka top line is 4.5 quarts, bottom line is 3.5 quarts. I'd remove the drain bolt and after a bit put it back, yeah you'll make a mess of your hand at the least but that's what it takes unless you have a bit of 5/16ths rubber line that you can stick down the dip tube and suck out.
 


how high is it on the stick? like way high? id not drive it if its 3 quarts over filled.

you can pull the drain plug, or suck the oil out the dip stick hole with thin plastic tubing. doing the siphon at least lets you put it right back into a old oil can.
 
Scottydoggs said:
how high is it on the stick? like way high? id not drive it if its 3 quarts over filled.

you can pull the drain plug, or suck the oil out the dip stick hole with thin plastic tubing. doing the siphon at least lets you put it right back into a old oil can.
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It was 3qt over drove it but not far. Did not know u can't drive on too much oil, I lucked out. I drained the oil and got it back to normal. The oil took up the whole dip stick!! It's back to the 5 dots now lol! I always learn the hard way. Lol
 
Here is the schematic for the ign1 fuse. You may not have all the things listed in it. It does power the MAF and the O2 sensor heaters. The first place I would look for a short to ground is at the a/c accumulator which is an aluminum can looking thing in front of the transmission. The engine wire harness can rub against it and cause various problems.

Screenshot_2014-04-30-21-20-30_zpski7vjhk_edit_1398911885740_zpsxrae5caz.png


Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
 
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Daheazle said:
Here is the schematic for the ign1 fuse. You may not have all the things listed in it. It does power the MAF and the O2 sensor heaters. The first place I would look for a short to ground is at the a/c accumulator which is an aluminum can looking thing in front of the transmission. The engine wire harness can rub against it and cause various problems.

Screenshot_2014-04-30-21-20-30_zpski7vjhk_edit_1398911885740_zpsxrae5caz.png


Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
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Thanks! I took the car to the local shop, because I could not find the short myself and they found it for me and when the short was fixed, the fuse stopped blowing and my radiator fans kick back in, as well as my MAF and evap emission purge solenoid control circuit kick in. However my brand new oxygen sensor are still not working!! Could it be because I bought cheap after market ones? Bank 1 and bank 2 are not working and I replace the one on the manifold and the one under the car.
 
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