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Trans Cooler Line Help



Thanks for the pictures on the trans cooler mounting and routing of the lines....it looks like you took the front bumper off....how long did it take you to do this and where were the bolts located?
 
Scottydoggs said:
i just lost IQ points watching that vid. holy crap dude, spit it out already.
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I'm really not in the business of making you satisfied.if you don't lie it you could always make a better one. It's not like I put a extreme amount of time or energy into it.
 
91parkave said:
I'm really not in the business of making you satisfied.if you don't lie it you could always make a better one. It's not like I put a extreme amount of time or energy into it.
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im sorry, i had no idea you made the vid. i thought it was some random vid you found and posted.
 
robrileyw said:
Just so everyone knows the shift kit installation went pretty smooth, I took my time and cleaned everything up, swapped the springs according to the Transgo shift kit instructions, and a few hours later i had the pan bolted back up ready to go. I then had to replace the supply line to the bottom of the radiator since it started seeping as a result of the P1811 max line pressure command...After struggling using a 3/8" transmission line disconnect tool and spending about a half hour too long not being successful with this disconnect tool, I used a tiny flathead and hammer and popped the clips out in a few mins. After about 5 hours total of installing the shift kit, the supply line, and running back and forth to the parts store...I decided to hold off installing the transmission cooler for the time being.

I had removed the plastic grill pieces that run along the hood latch area, both the headlights, taking measurements, trying to figure out where to route the transmission cooler lines....it was just too much of a project to tackle for the day. I'd like to hear from others that have installed the transmission coolers on Grand Prix's, how you guys routed the transmission cooler lines? My transmission cooler lines said not to have less than a 3" bend when routing the lines, one of the few possibilities of routing the trans lines was a small hole behind the passenger side head light...the battery sat right there past the hole along with the top radiator fitting pretty close....on top of all this there was a vertical bar running from the top of the hood latch assembly down to the bottom of the ac condenser which prevented me from mounting the Imperial High Performance Trans Cooler without modifying this vertical bar....

Like I said before I live in upstate NY which gets pretty cold in the winter, anyone that has installed a transmission cooler in these Grand Prix's, let me know how you guys routed the cooler lines..

Thanks!
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Rob,

I installed an in-series cooler last fall and will describe my approach. I also spent way more time planning/measuring than it actually took to install the cooler. I mounted my cooler on the driver's side of the car and routed the lines around the driver's side of the ac condenser/radiator (I use these terms interchangeably which is probably wrong).

First, here is a sketch I made of my setup on a 2008 base 3.8L. The perspective is drawn from the front if you were standing slightly towards the drivers side:


EDIT: THE LINES SHOWN ABOVE ARE INCORRECT - THE ENDS ARE LABELED CORRECTLY BUT HOW THEY CONNECT TO THE RADIATOR ARE FLIP FLOPPED. THE TOP LINE FROM THE STOCK RADIATOR IS THE RETURN LINE AND SHOULD BE TAPPED INTO.

If I remember correctly, the transmission lines connecting were metal on the ends connecting to the transmission and radiator with a segment in the middle that was the same rubber tubing as was provided in my cooler kit. This is where I tapped in. I located my cooler as directly behind the drivers side grill opening as I could. I figured this would provide the most airflow vs behind the bumper or other obstruction. I think I took a different approach to routing my lines than others but it was very clean and has worked great so far. I was able to route my lines immediately outside of the AC condenser/radiator. There was a plastic guard or brace (might be the "vertical brace" you were referring to) just outside the radiator but I was able to route my lines BETWEEN the two without kinking or breaking the 3" bend rule. Note that I actually DID route the lines high to low as they wrapped around the radiator, this softened the curve in the lines. If I were to wrap them around the condenser on a level plane I think the bends would have been too sharp. If your car has the same setup as the 2008 model you should see this once you start digging in. My lines came out at the same location where the rubber portion of the original transmission lines were located so it was easy to tap into once I got them routed through the gap.

I had to take of the big plastic bottom guard which was somewhat challenging at times. Other than that I don't think I disassembled anything else.

Let me know if you'd like more information or want pictures of my setup.
 
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Thanks alot Stocker! You just inspired me to go through with the trans cooler job! But first just a few questions....which trans cooler did you install? Do you remember the size of the rubber lines you got the copper connections for (I'm thinking 3/8 rubber line) ??

Anyways I will take off my front bumper, the bottom plastic panel, mount the trans cooler towards the driver side towards the top like you...the only difference between your 2008 and my 2000 grand prix is the supply line runs to the bottom of the radiator and return line runs from the top...Did you use the standard worm clamps with the copper connections?

Thanks a bunch for the detailed write up along with the illustration, I really appreciate it!
 
I did a Hayden 403 and the kit included 3/8" rubber line. I just went into NAPA and got the copper connectors - they were labeled as air hose connectors.

I know we've gone back and forth about which line is supply and return. You must have checked yours somehow? Maybe gm switched up the direction on us.

This website seems consistent with my car. http://www.grandprix.net/upgrades/cooler.html . I just don't want you to install the wrong way!

I used the standard worm/screw clamps and they have been great - not a drop leaking. I read to avoid over tightening them; stop once the hose bulges out flush with the metal band on the worm clamp. I think people tend to over tighten them and it cuts the hose.

Glad I could pass along some info :cool:
 
Scottydoggs said:
im sorry, i had no idea you made the vid. i thought it was some random vid you found and posted.
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Doesn't matter I came off like a asshole for that I apologize. Video sucked but I just wanted to illustrate and give some ideas you know.but yes video could be a lot better lol.
 


Anyone know the max pressure of the transmission coolant lines under normal operation for the 4T65-E? The video below states that max normal transmission line pressure is from 223-271 psi, and can reach 275 or more with a bad PCS. Hayden trans coolers are rated and tested for 150 psi. I know the video creator is using a scan tool to set the PCS amperage to get those pressures, but doesn't that make it risky to install a low pressure trans cooler if those kinds of pressures are possible from a malfunctioning PCS?

 
Cooler line pressure and line pressure are two different things. Not sure how to explain it best.... They are two different hydraulic circuits. Any (decent) aftermarket cooler will be fine.
 
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