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how to properly jack up 2001 grand prix?

tcman49

tcman49

New member
My abs/trac ctrl warning lights are on and I want to get under the car or at least behind the wheels to make sure that the abs wiring is still attached to the wheel hubs.

My car has some rust underneath and the side rails with the notches where one puts a scissor jack is no longer an option, I want to just use a regular lift jack like on the front axle and then put the jack stands underneath.

I am not seeing any good place under the front bumper to jack the car up, where exactly can I put a jack to get the front wheels off the ground?

thanks
Terry
 


look for the bottom of the radiator there's a 2 circles with rubber bushings on either side of the car you can lift there. also jack stands are recommended! block the rear wheels with e-brake set and do not lift the entire front at once unless your jack can handle +2000lbs
 
^^^ This or if you have a smaller pump jack like I do, I usually go for the 2 rear subframe bushing points to jack on and then once its up I put the stand under the frame in the middle (in between the lower control arms) where its solid.

On the rear I jack up on the pinch welds and put the stands under the "frame" looking section under where the rear seats would be. Once its up you'd see what I'm referring to.

Depending on the year the big square subframe is steel or aluminum but its strong enough to hold up the whole front end so anywhere on it is basically safe. Just make sure its solid and secure before you crawl under it.
 
gxp_oil_05.jpg


Newer model (04-08) looking from the front bumper towards the rear.
 
This is when I first got my car, the red circles are where I put the jack stands now. I always jack where the jack is in this pic.

scwz.jpg
 
I followed the owner's manual the first time I jacked mine up.

About 10 lbs of rust hit the ground after the jack caved in the rockers. Lol

I usually jack around the control arms or the front rail.

Rear. Meh.
 


I wouldnt do the control arms. They're not a load carrying suspension component. Just use the front "rail" part of the subframe to get it up, jack stands somewhere on the same part. On the rear I use the pinch weld...I still have enough left for now.
 
02NavyBlue said:
I wouldnt do the control arms. They're not a load carrying suspension component.
Click to expand...

:th_scratchhead: What?

All the pressure of the weight of the car is on the Lower Control Arms. Strut to Knuckle which sits on the Lower Control Arm, which is then bolted to the frame... how can you say its not load carrying???

Now if you were using light weight aluminum racing LCAs I wouldn't lift from them, but the factory ones should hold just fine.
 
TLSheff said:
:th_scratchhead: What?

All the pressure of the weight of the car is on the Lower Control Arms. Strut to Knuckle which sits on the Lower Control Arm, which is then bolted to the frame... how can you say its not load carrying???

Now if you were using light weight aluminum racing LCAs I wouldn't lift from them, but the factory ones should hold just fine.
Click to expand...

That is incorrect. The weight goes from the strut, to the knuckle, to the wheel bearing, to the wheel to the ground. The LCA is there for alignment and to keep the wheel in place. It's a hollow control arm.
 
Then explain why they are so thick and rigid. The tubular racing ones are not meant for daily use because they can't handle the stress and weight day to day. If it was only for alignment and to keep the wheel in place it would be lighter and thinner made like a tie rod.
 
Hey man, I took the classes. You just have to imagine the suspension, and understand what's really going on. I don't know about yours, but I have steel LCA's that are hollow. There are holes, and I can stick a few fingers inside my LCA. Not very "strong" to me but they don't need to be. The aluminum ones probably have to be thicker because of the properties of aluminum. Just like how aluminum rims are thicker than steel rims. Now that's just the Macpherson strut system, and other similar styles. If the spring is mounted on the LCA, then it's a load carrying control arm. Not the case with struts.
 


But its still a weight carrying part. Its not AS MUCH as one with the spring directly mounted, I will give you that, but it IS still weight carrying and solid enough to support the weight of the car. Stamped steel, hollow with holes drilled doesn't mean anything. Look at the frame you say to jack it up by, same steel, hollow as well, holes drilled in it too.... but its ok? Just sayin.
 
I jack up plenty of cars by the LCA.

Where it bolts to the subframe, not the knuckle.

Maybe that's where the confusion lies.
 
i jack the front from the rear sub frame bolt location, i put the cup of the jack right over the sub frame bolt and bushing cap, this way it can't slide off, then i put a jack stand under the frame next to the jack. or being my rockers are still solid i can put the jack stand under the rockers.

the backs so far ive jacked from the rocker over the good old pinch weld. the back is light it comes right up no problems, if your rusty use the rear frame after trailing arm.


jacklocation_zps94452ccd.jpg
 
^ Truth. Lift up by the knuckle where it is thicker... by the knuckle would be a bad idea.

Also consider, if you have taken classes on alignments at all, choice point for lifting the weight of the car to align one is on the LCA, big middle hydraulic bar mounts both LCAs and lifts the front so it mimics how the car sits on the road... it'll hold.

Ninja'd " ^ " by scotty. lol
 


TLSheff said:
But its still a weight carrying part. Its not AS MUCH as one with the spring directly mounted, I will give you that, but it IS still weight carrying and solid enough to support the weight of the car.
Click to expand...


Well you may want to read up on it then.
"There is no load carrying ball joint in a MacPherson strut
suspension. The lower ball joint is a non-load carrying joint,
positioning the steering knuckle."

Positioning the steering knuckle is it's job, like I stated before. Not to carry any weight of the vehicle. I stated I wouldn't lift there (my opinion). Where scotty said is a good place to jack from as well.
 
Who would lift by the ball joint???

I said the Lower Control Arm. I think Blue was right, confusion... I mean lift on the LCA by the hinge point next to the frame, not by the ball joint silly.
 
We are all aware of that. The confusion was slightly unrelated to the OP's topic, what the LCA's job is. You can lift there, I just wouldnt. Too many better spots around it.
 
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