Why in the heck is my power window circuit breaker keep overloading!!

[mcdavidhome]

:th_shakinghead1::th_shakinghead1::th_shakinghead1:Hello everyone. For the life of me I cant figure out why my power window circuit breaker keeps overheating and causing all of my power windows to stop working..
Sometimes my windows work and sometimes they don't. I replaced the 25 amp circuit breaker with a new one straight from GM and still I have the same problem.
What could possibly be causing this problem?? I hate electrical problems with cars because they seem to be the hardest to solve...:th_sick1::th_sick1::th_sick1: Any suggestions?

 

[02NavyBlue]

Maybe one of the motors are bad. do you notice the interior lights dimming excessively when using any particular window motor?

 

[mcdavidhome]

No the lights dont dim at all when I hit the switch to a particular window, in fact, when I hit the switch nothing happens at all. Its like there is absolutely no power getting to any of my windows. Keep in mind that none of my power windows are working. I could see if it was just one window not working but for all of them to go out at the same time is crazy..

 

[02NavyBlue]

Are you getting power to and from the 25A fuse?

 

[TexasTanker19kilo20]

IMO, it could be a bad master switch, mine acted the same way, went to the Junk yard and scored a working used one, no problems since.

 

[Scottydoggs]

could be the master window switch, if its a 4 door the child lock out can go bad and kill everything. try playing with the back window lock if you got a 4 door. it may start to work, if it does the master switch is bad.

 

[lewis1952]

While on this subject,I have a 2000 gp se 4dr neither window on the passenger side work. The motors work there's power to the switches and they won't work off the master switch either.

 

[mcdavidhome]

Yes I'm getting 12 volts to the 25 amp curcuit breaker but get this the circuit breaker is getting extremely hot. To the point to where It buns my fingers if I touch it.

 

[mcdavidhome]

Ok thanks. I will take a look at that also.

 

[mcdavidhome]

could be the master window switch, if its a 4 door the child lock out can go bad and kill everything. try playing with the back window lock if you got a 4 door. it may start to work, if it does the master switch is bad.

So I should be able to replace that whole power window block that's on the driver side panel correct?

 

[mcdavidhome]

IMO, it could be a bad master switch, mine acted the same way, went to the Junk yard and scored a working used one, no problems since.

I certainly hope that fixes the problem. In order to get the master switch out of the door panel do you just pop it out or are there screws that hold it in? I hope I can find a video on you tube that shows how its done. It can't be that complicated though.

 

[Scottydoggs]

the switch pups up then you un plug it. rather easy. iirc the front gets popped up first.

you may be able to find a new set of switches on e bay. they sell just the switches with out the cover plate, you reuse yours. or buy used.

 

[mcdavidhome]

the switch pups up then you un plug it. rather easy. iirc the front gets popped up first.

you may be able to find a new set of switches on e bay. they sell just the switches with out the cover plate, you reuse yours. or buy used.

Ok thanks! I am fixing to jump right into it now.

 

[mcdavidhome]

IMO, it could be a bad master switch, mine acted the same way, went to the Junk yard and scored a working used one, no problems since.

How did you get the switch to pop out from the door console. I'm having a little trouble trying to get mine to pop out. I'm using a very small flat head crewdriver to get in between the switch and the door panel but it wont seem to budge. Do you have to remove any door paneling first to get it to pop out.

 

[FordMan77]

I would remove the door panel to get to it from underneath as the switch bezel is notoroious for breaking the retaining tab at the top (near the mirror adjustment). It is very thin plastic and WILL break if you cannot release the bottom edge clip gently. Been through 2 of them and even on the 2nd one I was gentle. I'm pulling the panel from now on. It's not hard and guarantees that I don't have to spend another $45 on a new bezel.

The bottom clip is metal and is easy to see once you get the panel loose.

 

[mcdavidhome]

I would remove the door panel to get to it from underneath as the switch bezel is notoroious for breaking the retaining tab at the top (near the mirror adjustment). It is very thin plastic and WILL break if you cannot release the bottom edge clip gently. Been through 2 of them and even on the 2nd one I was gentle. I'm pulling the panel from now on. It's not hard and guarantees that I don't have to spend another $45 on a new bezel.

The bottom clip is metal and is easy to see once you get the panel loose.

Hey man thanks a lot. I was catching hell trying to pop it out without removing the panel. I have scratched up some paneling on my door with a screwdriver trying to pop it out and I'm not too happy about it either.

While on this subject,I have a 2000 gp se 4dr neither window on the passenger side work. The motors work there's power to the switches and they won't work off the master switch either.

Like Scottydoogs said its gotta be that master switch causing the problem. Especially if it has a child lock out.

IMO, it could be a bad master switch, mine acted the same way, went to the Junk yard and scored a working used one, no problems since.

There is a relay in the fuse box inside the car that is labeled RAP. Does anyone know what that stands for? It is now making a loud buzzing sound when I plug in my Power window circuit breaker.

Are you getting power to and from the 25A fuse?

There is a relay in the fuse panel that is labeled RAP. Do you know what that stands for? Its now making a loud buzzing sound when I plug in the 25amp circuit breaker that controls the power windows.

 

[mcdavidhome]

I would remove the door panel to get to it from underneath as the switch bezel is notoroious for breaking the retaining tab at the top (near the mirror adjustment). It is very thin plastic and WILL break if you cannot release the bottom edge clip gently. Been through 2 of them and even on the 2nd one I was gentle. I'm pulling the panel from now on. It's not hard and guarantees that I don't have to spend another $45 on a new bezel.

The bottom clip is metal and is easy to see once you get the panel loose.

I was able to get to the switch easily by pulling the panels off. Thanks for the tip.

 

[FordMan77]

No problem. Glad I could save you breaking the bezel. The RAP relay is the Retained Accesory Power relay. It's what keeps the power on before you open a door.

I wonder if the RAP relay is bad and causing the issue? Have you replaced the master switch yet?

 

[mcdavidhome]

No problem. Glad I could save you breaking the bezel. The RAP relay is the Retained Accesory Power relay. It's what keeps the power on before you open a door.

I wonder if the RAP relay is bad and causing the issue? Have you replaced the master switch yet?

Ahhh so thats what RAP means. I researched the crap out of that abbreviation and landed nothing. I even asked the guys that work at the GM dealership in the parts dept and they couldn't even tell me what it meant or what it controlled. No I haven't replaced the master switch yet because that relay started buzzing. I plan to replace the switch after I get another relay. So does this relay also control the door locks and trunk?

 

[BillBoost37]

Here's an idea, pull the rubber boot where the wires pass through into your drivers door back and look at the wires. It's not all that uncommon for the wires to break over time with the door opening/closing. A wire in there would cause all the windows to have an issue and potentially allow a partial grounding which could heat up a breaker.