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New bearing, still got C0041

L

Le Patriote

New member
Hi guy's.

When i have buyed this car, i had the C0041 ( RF Wheel Speed Circuit Range/ Performance ). Sometimes the abs start to pulsate my brake for no reason but the ABS light dont comes on. Sometimes the ABS light turns on without sign.

I just changed the wheel bearing yesterday and no change. I checked the harness up to the front of the engine where it go into a bigger harness and no sign of corrosion or something else. Where to look now ... I have no idea after all.

I got 1000 OHM for the new wheel bearing.

Pontiac Grand Prix 2008 SE.

Thank in advance !
 


get it scanned at a shop. there's got to be something thats not right if the abs is pulsing under your foot for no reason.

most shops charge for a abs scan, but its better then tossing money at a phantom problem.
 
if the signal to the ebcm is cutting out for whatever reason while you are braking, the ebcm is going to think your wheel is locking up
 
im not allowed to upload pics, if you pm me you email I can send you a pic of a sensor cutting out (c0041 from my car),

signal to the ebcm would drop out at low speeds only, that's why my abs would turn on during braking for me,

check the connector at the WSS for corrosion, and also make sure it has good contact as you might have to bend the metal out more on the female side, past that check the resistance on both the wires before you shotgun the ebcm which do like to fail,


side note, you said 08 se. I could be wrong but I thought the only trim levels for that year are Base/Gxp
 


Seachicken said:
im not allowed to upload pics, if you pm me you email I can send you a pic of a sensor cutting out (c0041 from my car),

signal to the ebcm would drop out at low speeds only, that's why my abs would turn on during braking for me,

check the connector at the WSS for corrosion, and also make sure it has good contact as you might have to bend the metal out more on the female side, past that check the resistance on both the wires before you shotgun the ebcm which do like to fail,


side note, you said 08 se. I could be wrong but I thought the only trim levels for that year are Base/Gxp
Click to expand...

You are right ... My bad. It's a base GP ...

I will try to bend a bit the metal on the female connector ...but for what i remember, all look good. No rust at all.
 
Your fix is simple. I've done dozens. A new TWISTED pair of wires needs to go from the ebcm to the wheel bearing connector.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Here's the harness I usually make for each side.


pyhy5uqa.jpg


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 


The signal from the wheel bearing is low voltage ac. It can easily pickup interface and cause issues. Twisting the wires prevents that. They come oem that way some just don't realize this when running new ones and create a new can of worms.

a different application that runs low voltage ac signal. high end RCAs for aftermarket amps and upper level audio factory systems will also use twisted and shielded wiring for signal to the amp.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 


I've seen brand new vehicles without abs. Can't say I've ever heard of a gp without it but I've definitely seen others without but usually base models like a cobalt or malibu for ex.

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rperry435 said:
The signal from the wheel bearing is low voltage ac. It can easily pickup interface and cause issues. Twisting the wires prevents that. They come oem that way some just don't realize this when running new ones and create a new can of worms.

a different application that runs low voltage ac signal. high end RCAs for aftermarket amps and upper level audio factory systems will also use twisted and shielded wiring for signal to the amp.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...



I knew there had to be a reason, thanks man:th_thumb-up:, what do you do on for the connectors, do you repin it at the ebcm and use a whole new one at the wss?
 
Not nessesary. Just cut the wires at he ebcm a few inches back. SOLDER them covering it with either high grade electrical tape like super 33+ or shrink tubing. At the wheel bearing you can either cut off the connector soldering the new wires directly to the wheel bearing side (I only say this because I have seen the wire inside the insulation by the plug turn Into powder from oxidation. something someone might not ever see but would prevent the new pair of wires to fix nothing... Mind you this wheel bearing connector showed NO signs of being compromised I've only see this exact scenario once in 10yrs.) or cut the wires back a little from the vehicle side plug and solder there.


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