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Thinking of Going Turbo in your GP?



johntremell said:
do you get better turbo results with a na or a supercharged? im thinking about buying a newer grand prix to turbo.
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That is very debateable as people have used both with excellent success. However, logic would reason on the side of choosing an engine that is designed for boost.

gtpeddie said:
in your opinion was it worth the money to turbo your GP? curious because i have diamond pistons and may possibly go turbo in the "future" depending on how much i like my GenV IC set up.
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Yes it was worth the money IMO to turbo the car. It drives differently than a blower GP and the power is continuous now even in the upper RPM. However, I always say if someone is going to be happy with 12's then don't waste the money going turbo. The only way I would recommend someone going turbo in a GP is if they are just wanting something a little different with the possibility of going for more power at a later date. If you add up the cost on a S/C build to get the car to low 12's-11's then you will quickly find out its more cost effective going the turbo route. Many times the only reason someone stays S/C is because they cant afford the large chunk of money up front. It's cheaper for them to spend a few hundred bucks here and there than save for awhile to go turbo. By the time they get to the point of finally realizing turbo would have been a better choice they have already spent gobs of money.

Besides there are some decent used kits at decent prices floating around the classifieds. It would be silly not to consider that as an option before moving forward with a S/C build.
 
If you have a turbo kit please post your mods and any dyno results. I would like to start adding others at the bottom of the first post.
 
My Turbo Kit Includes : Z7 Kit - 3" Air to Air intercooler , ST3 Cam , Front and Rear Powerlogs , Tial BOV , Turbonetics 60-1 Ball Bearing , HBC Boost Controller , ZZP Stage 3 Ported Heads , 130# Springs , Titanium Retainers , Double Roller , L26 Upper intake With HV3 , 80# Injectors , SLP Cat-Back , LS7 Lifters , 3" Catless Downpipe , Triple Edge Performance Transmission. Looking for 450-500whp On E85
 
hey new to the site, and have been thinking for about a year about dropping some money into my 04 GP. Was looking for some input into the current setup they sell for my L26.
Cartuning Performance
Including the methanol injetion, intercooler, electric cutout and ceramic coated stainless pipes this kit runs about 5700.
Anyone have a similar setup/ different ideas/ things they would of done different?
 
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chrisokelley89 said:
hey new to the site, and have been thinking for about a year about dropping some money into my 04 GP. Was looking for some input into the current setup they sell for my L26.
Cartuning Performance
Including the methanol injetion, intercooler, electric cutout and ceramic coated stainless pipes this kit runs about 5700.
Anyone have a similar setup/ different ideas/ things they would of done different?
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The waste gate placement is terrible on the CT kit. When I purchased my CT kit used, it came from Canada and I still had to pay an additional $125 when it was delivered. If you are seriously planning on spending that kind of coin on a turbo kit do a Z7 or Stamatta kit from ZZP. Or better yet spend around 3K and get you a used one.
 
chrisokelley89 said:
pretty sure thats only like $25 correct me if i'm wrong.
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I have to pay 13% when importing.

So it it's valued at 5000, i'd have to pay 650 plus shipping plus brokerage because no one ships USPS/Canada post.

I haven't the faintest idea what it costs going the other way.
 


New here. I'm looking into buying a 2007 Grand Prix GT, I will be test driving it this weekend. I already have one turbo charged car, my 1986 Buick Regal Grand National. However, if I want to go more than 500 rwhp, I will need to rebuild my short block with forged internals. The bottom end becomes the weak spot, given all other things are equal. The stock crank is cast and the main caps are as well. So I will have to replace the 2 and 3 main cap with billet main caps and ARP studs as well as the crank, with a forged crank. If done correct, it runs about $6k. Nearly the cost of the 2007 Grand Prix I want to buy.

So my question here, how strong is the bottom end on the 3800 series II/III? Is the crank forged or made out of high strength steel? What about the main caps, are they forged or made out of high strength steel? I know the main caps are cross-bolted, which is awesome. Just curious what the bottom end could handle? Are there any aftermarket suppliers for main caps and rotating assemblies for the 3800 S2/S3 motors?

Some turbo regal and Grand Nationals owners are starting to replace the stock 109 3.8L v6 blocks with the series II/III motors. It is catching on, the claim is that the newer S2/S3 3.8L are of superior design to the LC2 or 109 block in found in the Turbo Buick and that because of improvements in design less boost is needed to get the same performance out these engines then a 109 with the same turbo. Since my 109 block needs rebuilt I was considering doing a 3800 S3 swap. There are threads on the Turbobuick forum that go through the steps to do it. Some fabrication is required of course, but it can be done. One person is just finishing his swap, I think he has starting on the tuning. I can't wait to see what the car runs.

3800 S2/S3, the best pushrod v6 ever produced.
 
As far as i know the stock 3800 is a steel forged crank with a 4 bolt main. .. ive heard of people getting 700hp... that's why they are so durable... if your going for high boosting numbers is best to replace the Pistons, switch to arp studs, and av double roller chain.... but if your first order of business is the trans. Some hats parts need to be beefed up before you go anything over 350 hp.
The series 2/3 in a grand national is sick. ...
 


is the northstar maf and throttle body ok to use with a turbo? currently supercharged with an a/w intercooler and N* tb/maf and am wondering about compatibility.
 
txslow6 said:
If you have a turbo kit please post your mods and any dyno results. I would like to start adding others at the bottom of the first post.
Click to expand...

cartuning turbo kit, st5 cam, L32--18psi--451whp, 400ft-lbs--11.57@122mph (this is still on the PT61 40,000 miles later)

after i tuned the kit on the L36 it made 289whp on 91 octane on 9psi and 339whp on 100 octane on 13psi.
 
I'm just trying to figure out why people say to use the L67 or L36 tb with the L36 intake manifold instead of the L26 with a north star throttle body because I thought the L26 was 75mm along with the north star tb. My theory is that the 75mm throttle body would match up better with the L26 intake manifold because they are both 75mm.

Will from overkill suggested the L67 with his 3.5" LS7 maf kit, and I'm tempted to do that.

The advantage I can see by using the L26 is that its aluminium and the outlet can be ported or just gasket matched to the lower intake manifold.
 
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