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...topswap

Grimsin

New member
if someone doesnt buy my topswap VERY soon im gonna say **** it and start porting the m90 and getting ready for a install in spring(no need for extra power in snow lol)
question is, im at 230 000km now which is 144 000 miles.. is that too may miles to be top swapping?
 


Make sure you clean everything extremely well and then clean it again. Prep is huge here and honestly where I spent about 2 hours with me and another guy just to make sure it was perfect. Your mileage is not bad so I wouldnt worry about it
 
Make sure the valves don't leak or have any cracks didn't check mine and had to take it apart all over again because of a misfire.
 


If you are concerned about mileage, over the winter save the extra $$$ needed for a low mileage L26 and top swap it.
 
my ticket I had on my commercial licence has been all sorted out. So i can now look for a much higher paying job, so I plan to save $$, port the m90, get a extra pcm and send it to overkill for a canned tune, then get my fluids,gaskets,hot tank the heads, then install it. lastly drive over to overkill for a incar tune.
 
No . A top swap with standard pulley is roughly da same as a stock l67 with a 3.5 pulley go for a tune for 3.2 tune
 


I'm not sure what the guy above is trying to say, but on a topswap, typically you want headers and a tune just to run the stock pulley.
With the added compression you run a higher risk of knock and detonation. With some exhaust mods the boost pressure will go down a little and help keep your post blower temps low.
 
top swap, headers, tune and you think you can go down to a 3.2 pulley?

I think he was saying that if I do a top swap for more compression and other mods to include a 3.4 pulley, I would need a tune similar to what is needed for someone who is running a 3.2 pulley, without the top swap. I think.

Grimsin, what do you think about the tune needed for a l67 swapped onto a l36 or l26? My car will be a daily driver.
 
Not sure what your asking.. you mean a topswap off a l67 onto l36/l26? Deffinetly need a tune. Incar one preferably. Headers would help it be safer.
 
Yeah that's basically what I'm asking. I'm trying to learn/plan for a rebuilding/modding or modding/rebuilding a high mileage L67. I was planning to rebuild it and include the usual supporting mods for a 3.4 setup. I was also exploring a GenV swap. It occurred to me I may be able to just find a lower mileage L32 in a junkyard and just swap the whole thing into my car. Someone said another option, and possibly better may be to find a L36 or L26 motor or short block and put my heads etc. onto that, that way I could probably save a little money over a rebuild and get more power due to higher compression. Plus the N/A block or motor would be easier and cheaper than a L26.

So, I'm exploring that thought and the pros and cons of a top swap to higher compression and increased boost at the same time. Sounds hard. Maybe it would be better to just do the top swap and not go to a 3.4.

I was just looking for the best bang for the buck. And it is a daily driver and I'm on a budget that includes a family, so it can't be real extreme.

Sorry to hijack your thread by the way.
 


Yep that y i sed 3.4 TUNE not pulley
I think he was saying that if I do a top swap for more compression and other mods to include a 3.4 pulley, I would need a tune similar to what is needed for someone who is running a 3.2 pulley, without the top swap. I think.

Grimsin, what do you think about the tune needed for a l67 swapped onto a l36 or l26? My car will be a daily driver.
 
The tune doesn't change based on the pulley size.

It changes based on the MAF you're running, the cam, injectors and fuel.

There is nothing else to change.

If you're running less than 14* of timing, change the pulley, not the timing.

What I would suggest at this point is a compression and leak down test.

Just to see how your engine is doing so far and if there are any potential issues that you may or may not see when you get the heads off.
 
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