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What amount of KR is acceptable?

tms8582

tms8582

New member
I know zero KR is the goal but sometimes I show just a blip of KR (0.2) under WOT between 2nd and 3rd shift. I've got my Aeroforce lights set up to light up over .2 on one light and the other light set up go off over 1.2. I've never seen the 1.2 light go off but the .2 one does most of the time under WOT between 2nd and 3rd. A degree of KR is 1.0 correct? So 0.2 is a twentieth of a degree correct? I'm guessing this is nothing to be concerned about? If so should I change the lights to go off over 1.0 and the other one 2.0? What amount of KR do you guys get concerned about?
 


The politically correct answer is 0, but once in a while I see 2.0KR and I don't worry much. If you see 0.0 timing being commanded. Worry.
 
.2 is two tenths of a degree, not a twentieth, but i would say you have nothing to be concerned about, ive often seen stock cars make 4.0 degrees and they seem to be fine
i have my gauge set at like 5.0 degrees and i often see 2.0 and also dont worry. I wish I saw .2 at the most!
 
Austins01GP said:
.2 is two tenths of a degree, not a twentieth, but i would say you have nothing to be concerned about, ive often seen stock cars make 4.0 degrees and they seem to be fine
i have my gauge set at like 5.0 degrees and i often see 2.0 and also dont worry. I wish I saw .2 at the most!
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Two tenths of a degree is better terminology however a twentieth of a degree is the same amount lol Ok thanks guys, I'll change the settings on the lights to go off a 1.0 on one and 2.0 on the other. I won't get concerned unless I see both of them go off. I've got mild cam, headers, ported valve bowls on the heads and a 3.2 pulley btw. Showing about 18.5 on the injector pulse width and 10.5 psi of boost so I think it's pretty safe.
 
tms8582 said:
Two tenths of a degree is better terminology however a twentieth of a degree is the same amount lol Ok thanks guys, I'll change the settings on the lights to go off a 1.0 on one and 2.0 on the other. I won't get concerned unless I see both of them go off. I've got mild cam, headers, ported valve bowls on the heads and a 3.2 pulley btw. Showing about 18.5 on the injector pulse width and 10.5 psi of boost so I think it's pretty safe.
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yeah sounds like you'll be just fine LOL hows that thing run with the cam and pulley? i always wondered how my car woulda turned out if i woulda went through with camming it :/

and not that it matters a whole bunch, but im pretty sure 1/20 (one twentieth) = 0.05 while 2/10(two tenths) = 0.2
 


IF you set your gauge to go off at 1-2* KR, your gonna see an awful lot of red.. I had my aeroforce on 4* on my ssei, as it was a # That many thought was a good point to start watching what your doing.. Also The higher the RPM and boost the worse it is.. ex 2* kr will not be as damaging at 3000 rpm, and 4 psi, as opposed to 6000 rpm and 10+ psi
 
Austins01GP said:
yeah sounds like you'll be just fine LOL hows that thing run with the cam and pulley? i always wondered how my car woulda turned out if i woulda went through with camming it :/

and not that it matters a whole bunch, but im pretty sure 1/20 (one twentieth) = 0.05 while 2/10(two tenths) = 0.2
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Your right my bad. The car is running great! The Xtreme energy cam is a stage 1 type cam but you can tell its cammed at idle for sure. The 105 springs allow for higher rpm's and it's tuned with 6250 shift points. The higher rpms is a noticeable difference when your used to the factory 5800. I started off with a 3.3 pulley and it was much quicker but I was only getting 9.5 psi of boost and zero KR so I tried a 3.2. With the 3.2 I'm getting 10.5 psi of boost and just a tad of KR here and there so I'm maxed out for now. I am considering e85 and bigger injectors next because e85 is available all around where I live and I've heard it's good for another 20 to 30hp with a tune.
 


comatoast said:
IF you set your gauge to go off at 1-2* KR, your gonna see an awful lot of red.. I had my aeroforce on 4* on my ssei, as it was a # That many thought was a good point to start watching what your doing.. Also The higher the RPM and boost the worse it is.. ex 2* kr will not be as damaging at 3000 rpm, and 4 psi, as opposed to 6000 rpm and 10+ psi
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I don't think I will see much red at all with it set over 2.0 because I've never seen it get as high as 2.0. I think the 3.2 pulley is on the conservative side for my mods. Maybe your ssei was pushing the envelope a little more? Plus its a heavier car with more load on the motor. I just have so much money invested in this motor I want to be sure and error on the conservative side.
 
But wouldn't that little of KR (1*-4*) be alot mroe harmful with the set mods he has since he's running a smaller pulley?
 
tms8582 said:
Your right my bad. The car is running great! The Xtreme energy cam is a stage 1 type cam but you can tell its cammed at idle for sure. The 105 springs allow for higher rpm's and it's tuned with 6250 shift points. The higher rpms is a noticeable difference when your used to the factory 5800. I started off with a 3.3 pulley and it was much quicker but I was only getting 9.5 psi of boost and zero KR so I tried a 3.2. With the 3.2 I'm getting 10.5 psi of boost and just a tad of KR here and there so I'm maxed out for now. I am considering e85 and bigger injectors next because e85 is available all around where I live and I've heard it's good for another 20 to 30hp with a tune.
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ive heard E-85 is the way to go if you can get a good tune for it.

and as your car sits, i think you are right where you wanna be with pulley size and KR.
 
Yes I've read on here from a few guys that e85 really is a good way to go. Right now its almost a buck less per gallon in Michigan too! I know that the car will get less mpg's but it about evens out with the cheaper cost at the moment at least.
 


Think its been said, but the smaller the pulley the more damaging a * of KR can be. While you obviously dont want any, people forget how old school our KR sensors are and that they aren necessarily 100% correct ALL the time. What Im saying is, If you blip a degree or less (especially in mid shift) odds are its likely false knock. just look at what is happening when KR is happening. Do you have a lean spike? whats youre command timing at that given area? etc....
 
Yeah more mods and boost means KR is more dangerous. 1-2 or less isnt really much to be concerned with on any build. Ideally you want 0 though within reason. If you're getting 2 degrees only at 140MPH thats probably not a concern. At 60MPH it might be a concern (as its probably only going to get worse). A lot of stock cars will have like 5* of KR and be fine because of the low boost levels.

On another note with a 3.1 on a GenV I've hit 6-7 degrees of KR before multiple times without killing my car (asuming there aren't chipped pistons merely hiding away). I really don't reccommend that though.
 
gtpsleeper said:
Think its been said, but the smaller the pulley the more damaging a * of KR can be. While you obviously dont want any, people forget how old school our KR sensors are and that they aren necessarily 100% correct ALL the time. What Im saying is, If you blip a degree or less (especially in mid shift) odds are its likely false knock. just look at what is happening when KR is happening. Do you have a lean spike? whats youre command timing at that given area? etc....
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Yeah this is exactly what is happening between 2nd and 3rd only. I wonder if it is false knock because my buddy ran his car with the intercooler off once and I remember his KR showing up much longer. Mine is only a blip mostly less than 1* and only between 2nd and 3rd at WOT. I'll take a closer look at the fuel condition and timing on some more runs and see. BTW I know your running e85 and a 2.8 pulley with a genV. Are you running an intercooler? How much boost are you getting?
 
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