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pistons and rods worth it?

DaytonaGTP500

New member
hey guys just looking for some firiendly advice cuz im lost in my own decisions. needless to say i have my engine completley tore apart in the middle of a turbo build and am at the dillema of needing to put some cam bearings in it, but the machine shop wants the pistons and everything out to do them. so since im already this far im trying to figure out if the 4340 rods and federal pistons are really worth the extra money or not... i know that there lighter n all that good ol noise but that adds another almost 1500 after machine shop work n such. The current build im on im looking for 600whp on a s259 turbo and e85 and was planning on just using the stock bottom end not touching a thing but if i have to take it all the way down would the money to build it be justifiable? and if anyone has done this was it really that big of diff? thanks guys!!!!!!!!
 


Just an FYI, before you make your decision, ZZP doesn't have 4340 rods in stock as of a week ago, regardless of what their site says. I would email them to check the status first.

Otherwise, I would use JE forged pistons.



But, as long as your tune is good, the stock bottom end should hold that kind of power without any issues.
 
I would stick with stock l67 rods and pistons they will handle 600whp no problems, your fuel system will have to be huge to make 600+ on e85 tho, your going to need 100lb injectors and more than 1 fuel pump
 
yea i have dual walbro 255's on a hobbs switch and #80 injectors and just emailed zzp about the rods. If they dont have them ill prolly just stick with stock and clean them up, but if they have them I'd be tempted, 1.5 pounds off just sounds amazing.. any chance you know do the pistons and **** HAVE to be out in order to do cam bearings or can i do it with them in there, because if i can do them in there then ill just buy the tool and do it myself and save money/time....
 
Well if they are line boring them then yes and that being said it would be a good idea to have that done since your planning that kind of power
 


Wait sorry thought that line boring was directed to the Hobbs switch thing, but ya I bought an already made setup with the Hobbs switch already on it. Do they really fail that often? And would there really be any diff overall having them run all the time together?
 
Hobbs switches are fine for fuel pumps.. I use one, my buddies uses one it works well.

That little 59mm is going to struggle to get enough power to work a stock bottom end... the big rods might show some use when you get a 70mm+ turbo on there.
 


Hobbs switches are fine for fuel pumps.. I use one, my buddies uses one it works well.

That little 59mm is going to struggle to get enough power to work a stock bottom end... the big rods might show some use when you get a 70mm+ turbo on there.

I was going to run both pumps at the same time all the time, other than keeping run time down on one pump is there any other reason to use a boost activated switch to turn one on and off
 
I ran into a similar issue needing new cam bearings and have to take the block to a machne shop. I'm somewhat of a newbie but my neighor is a mechanic and has a 500hp GTP. He told me the biggest benefit to the coated aftermarket pistons (besides weight) is durability against KR. You've probably seen and heard about chipped stock pistons on our motors. Turbos can make a lot of boost and I'd think the stronger pistons may be worth it just to protect your investment. Having said that I know stuff gets very expensive when your motor is at the machine shop. I opted to keep stock pistons.... just the ring set was $150.00!


Best of luck with your turbo build.
 
Sorry completely off subject, but does anyone know of any GTP's(or anyone for that matter) running the s259 turbo? If so, do ya know how it runs?
Now I'm debating about the bottom end but that'll pry wind up costing another 2200 so idk :th_nervous:
 


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