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2000 model with electrical and battery issues.

craftyncrazy

New member
Hi all. I just joined here because I am at my wits end with my daughter's car. We purchased this car used in November for our 18 year old daughter. All in all it seems to be a sound car with a good engine and transmission, but we've been having issues with the battery going dead along with other strange electrical issues.

Let me preface this with "I KNOW LITTLE TO NOTHING ABOUT CARS" so excuse my lack of proper terminology!

Minor inconveniences include the radio not turning off when you turn off the car, the wipers do the same occasionally Some days the radio display stays on. The electric locks only lock the doors when all the doors are closed, so we have to lock them, then manually unlock the door and open them then manually lock them again.

Annoying problem - often times when you turn the ignition off it wont turn completely back to the normal position. Many times we have to re-start the car then wait a few minutes before it will work properly. Sometimes a good jiggle fixes it.

Major issue - dead battery! We have replaced the battery twice and had the alternator checked at the auto part store. They said it was fine. After the last battery replacement everything seemed fine for over a month. I began to think the problem stemmed from the seat heater which she used quite often during the cold months and now that its spring it was fine since it was not being used.

Last week we got a torrential downpour which flooded our street and her car was parked in our driveway at a small slant so the rear end got water up to the bottoms of the rear doors. A small amount of water was in the back floorboard on the passenger side. The next morning the battery was completely dead. No interior lights, I wouldn't even attempt to turn over. We jumped it and all was fine for a week.

This past Saturday I borrowed her car for some errands and I made two stops with no starting issues. I returned home went in to the house for 5 minutes so she could join me for a few more errands and when I went back to the car it was completely dead again.

Yesterday we jumped it and let it idle for 15-20 minutes and turned it off attempted to re-start and still completely dead.

Someone told us to pull the red cable off the battery when it is running and if it stays on the alternator is good. We did this yesterday and it stayed running.

I really don't want to replace the alternator which "everyone" says is our problem because the part is like $150 if that isn't actually the problem!

I'm hoping/praying one of you Grand Prix gurus will have my answer!
 


Wow, what a mess. With that many electrical issues it is probably one problem affecting many things. I would think a bad ground, bad ignition switch, or BCM could be causing the issues you are having. Also double check the basics. How does the battery cable look? Is it old? Is it corroded? Things like that can cause strange problems too.
 
To me it sounds like the ignition switch could be at fault for the radio/wipers staying on, and also why the key wont always come out. This could cause the dead battery as well, leaving things on that shouldn't be left on when removing the key.

On to the other issue (the battery being dead even after the car has ran for 15-20 minutes), if the battery was dead for around a week straight, that can be enough to permanently kill a battery, or seriously scar it. I know you aren't a car guy, but check the system voltage while it is running. If it's 13.5-15 volts, your charging system is likely working correctly. If you can't do this, most auto parts stores will do a free charging system test (Especially before considering replacing an alternator).

Also, a bad door switch on the drivers door can cause the radio to stay on for up to 10 minutes after leaving the car because it thinks you haven't left.
 


Wow, what a mess. With that many electrical issues it is probably one problem affecting many things. I would think a bad ground, bad ignition switch, or BCM could be causing the issues you are having. Also double check the basics. How does the battery cable look? Is it old? Is it corroded? Things like that can cause strange problems too.

These things could cause it to just go dead in a matter of minutes?
 
If it "went dead" in minutes, I believe either he thought it was dead because the ignition switch wasn't activating at all, or the battery didn't hold a charge at all, and the alternator was doing all the work while running.
 
To me it sounds like the ignition switch could be at fault for the radio/wipers staying on, and also why the key wont always come out. This could cause the dead battery as well, leaving things on that shouldn't be left on when removing the key.

On to the other issue (the battery being dead even after the car has ran for 15-20 minutes), if the battery was dead for around a week straight, that can be enough to permanently kill a battery, or seriously scar it. I know you aren't a car guy, but check the system voltage while it is running. If it's 13.5-15 volts, your charging system is likely working correctly. If you can't do this, most auto parts stores will do a free charging system test (Especially before considering replacing an alternator).

Also, a bad door switch on the drivers door can cause the radio to stay on for up to 10 minutes after leaving the car because it thinks you haven't left.

The battery wasn't dead for a week, it was running fine for the last week.

The auto parts store hooked up something to the battery and checked the alternator a couple months ago and said it was fine. Should we trust this test?

She turns off the radio when it doesn't turn off automatically by pressing the knob.

Oh and I guess I should have said I was her Mom! :)
 
The alternator test is always accurate, it just depends if the problem is constant or intermittent. If that checked out, they should have performed a battery test as well since the alternator didn't seem to be the cause.
So far things still seem to point to a control device (ignition switch or module). The ignition switches are a more common problem on Grand Prix's. But that still doesn't explain the battery being dead as long as it is still in good condition...

Oh and I just re-read the post, and saw that you mentioned that you couldn't lock the doors when they're open. There is an "anti-lockout" feature that I know is on the drivers door, that will not let you use the lock button while it's open. Mine also dings when I do that.
 
If it "went dead" in minutes, I believe either he thought it was dead because the ignition switch wasn't activating at all, or the battery didn't hold a charge at all, and the alternator was doing all the work while running.

I feel so dense and I think I'm rambling! Let me focus on the issues from this weekend to attempt to narrow this down.

This past Saturday I left the house having the car working just fine - started on its own. I made two stops and both times there were no problems with it starting, once the car was off for over an hour, second time was about 15 minutes, after which I drove for about 10 minutes to get home. Once I was home I went inside for about 5 minutes and when i came out the car was completely dead. Something obviously went wrong during my last short trip.

When I say "completely dead" I'm talking all interior lights and dash lights are non functional and turning the ignition makes no noise at all. No click and no attempt to start.

Could something have drained the battery in that short period of time?

Or would this scenario lean more toward the ignition switch?
 


No drain would kill a charged battery in 5 minutes, that's for sure. The ignition switch obviously doesn't control the interior lights, so that can't be it. I'd suspect a bad ground/bad connection at the battery, or bad BCM in that case, since nothing worked AT ALL when they did just 5 minutes before.
 
I really appreciate you taking your time to help! My husband planned on replacing the alternator tonight because she can't keep bumming rides. But really didn't think that was the problem. And he didn't either for that matter but was going to do it anyway!! I hope he knows or can figure out how to check the ground as a first place to start.
 
No problem! Yeah I'm not confident the alternator would do it, it's easy to change though, I could completely remove and replace one in under 5 minutes. Mind telling me what year the GP is? I have a 97-03 model, and I know where the grounds are.
 
Oh right it's in the title, I thought I saw it somewhere. The grounds are at the front right near the bottom of the engine (when standing at the front of the car) and another is about a foot from the battery under the fuse box. It's a bit hard to get to, but is do-able. Also just take the wires going to the battery, and see if you can move them side to side while they're still hooked up. You shouldn't be able to. The engine ground nut is a 15mm. The battery ground is smaller, I can't remember what it is for sure.
 


Oh right it's in the title, I thought I saw it somewhere. The grounds are at the front right near the bottom of the engine (when standing at the front of the car) and another is about a foot from the battery under the fuse box. It's a bit hard to get to, but is do-able. Also just take the wires going to the battery, and see if you can move them side to side while they're still hooked up. You shouldn't be able to. The engine ground nut is a 15mm. The battery ground is smaller, I can't remember what it is for sure.

Thanks!

would this be the right part for the bcm



http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121103637360&globalID=EBAY-US
 
Well as a preventative maintenance procedure, I removed the fastener, removed the wire, and checked for corrosion and cleaned with a wire brush before reinstalling.
 
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