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Pulley for GTP Supercharger

M

meshif

New member
Hey guys. Just traded my GT for a GTP and I want to make my super kick in at lower RPM's. From what I've read on here and on other websites, the easiest way to achieve this is to put a smaller pulley on the super input. I was wondering what size pulley is recommended. I want to make my GTP whine at around 3500-4000 RPM if possible. As far as I know, everything in this car is stock.

Thanks
-meshif
 


Yeah Reserach, I put a 3.6 pulley on mine, With Headers, tune, and I need to get a areoforce to monitor, if you just start putting stuff on with out proper mods to support it, well you will BLOW IT UP! And Welcome to the GPF!
 
Like I said, I have looked into this some. There's a lot of people asking how to make the super whine at lower RPMs and the most common reply is "smaller pulley". I'm trying to educate myself before slapping random crap in so if you have any links that I should "research" before doing any mods than please link them so I can do stuff properly.

EDIT: Wow...lots of replys while I was typing this. Will review the information then reply again. Thanks guys
 


if you want to hear the supercharger whine, put a cone filter on it, the stock air box is a muffler for the whine.

and like the other guys said, dont drop pulley size till you have headers and a way to tune the car. or it could blow up on you.
 
up at the top Speedkiller101 posted it, that will tell you everything you need to know learn it, love it and you will have a very happy 3800 supercharged (:
 
Thanks for the replies. I have looked over the link above but I will read it over more thoroughly and come back here to ask any questions I have along the way. Building up to the smaller pulley involves a lot of steps that aren't usually mentioned but they seem to be mostly small, basic maintenance things.

I'm gonna start with the fluid/t-stat changes, better plugs/wires and a cold air intake. If it's worth doing, I'll do the 90* rotate on the motor mounts as well.
 


Eaton says the supercharger oil is good for the life of the unit. Slip the belt off of the supercharger and see if the pulley has play. If it does, pick up the coupler off of zzp website or wbodystore. The coupler is 25 and the charger takes 2-3 bottles of Gm supercharger oil. Use only the Gm supercharger oil. No other oil should be used.
 
So...I have a parts list for basic maintenance sent out to my dad who works at an auto parts store and I should have fresh plugs/wires, fuel filter, ram/cold air intake and thermostat coming soon. Based on the advice above, I'm gonna stir up the oil in the super and if it's not burnt then I'm gonna leave it alone.


I plan on posting a log of everything I do in this thread so that any new GTP owner can follow along with what I do to squeeze a few extra ponies out of my new ride.
 
Year, mileage? Pics? Lol...

Plus... Check all belts, pulleys too. How does the tranny fluid look?



Easiest whine comes once you've done all this and something else breaks!!!


; )
 
So.... much... fail...

I don't know where to begin.

Start with this. Members Rides <---- Make your own. It will give you your own thread, to add pictures, videos, comments, questions, some are over 100 pages. They can get excessive, but you will be able to share any thoughts, ideas, and what all is done to the car.

I strongly support the Safely Modding thread, its there for a reason, use it, don't join the rest of the Multiple Motor Club. Follow it.

As to the fluid, it is designed for the life of the unit, but not really at the same time.
Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage.
Click to expand...
So since you plan to mod, likely run it hard, probably race it, you will want to have it changed. I would say if its over 100k it should be changed. Should you decide to do so, use gloves, its nasty, stinks, stains.
 
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meshif said:
So...I have a parts list for basic maintenance sent out to my dad who works at an auto parts store and I should have fresh plugs/wires, fuel filter, ram/cold air intake and thermostat coming soon. Based on the advice above, I'm gonna stir up the oil in the super and if it's not burnt then I'm gonna leave it alone.


I plan on posting a log of everything I do in this thread so that any new GTP owner can follow along with what I do to squeeze a few extra ponies out of my new ride.
Click to expand...

start up a members ride thread, its for your car only. this is general tech section.


if you have over 30 or 50,000 miles, change the sc oil. wear latex gloves, as the old oil stinks pretty bad, if it gets on your hands the stink will stay with you for a day or so.
 


meshif said:
Hey guys. Just traded my GT for a GTP and I want to make my super kick in at lower RPM's. From what I've read on here and on other websites, the easiest way to achieve this is to put a smaller pulley on the super input. I was wondering what size pulley is recommended. I want to make my GTP whine at around 3500-4000 RPM if possible. As far as I know, everything in this car is stock.

Thanks
-meshif
Click to expand...

I'm not even sure if I know how to properly respond to this post.

:th_nervous:

Let me help you out kiddo:

TLSheff basically hit it on the head.

Since people don't like to read, i'll spend a few minutes of my life typing this out for you, in a simple form.

You want to Mod: Well there are a few steps that need to take place before you drop pulley sizes.

First thing is first, get all maintenance up to date on your car. Such as plugs/wires (Go with stock Delco/OEM wires from your local Auto parts store), fuel filter, upstream o2 sensor, oil change, SC oil change, blah blah blah and for your transmission.... Do a pan drop and filter change. Do not flush your trans, I repeat DO NOT FLUSH THE TRANS. Learn from my mistake. You can also flush the coolant system. Get rid of the nasty Dexcool sh1t and go with some (Green)? coolant, since Dexcool is known to plug some passage ways. You don't want that.

When that is all completed, now your reading to start modding.

Build your own intake. Its very simple, and there is a step by step process on this website on how to do so.

Buy headers. There are multiple places to get them. I personally have SLP Headers but are expensive, $800 new. Go with Speed Daddy Headers off ebay, or SS Auto Chrome Headers. Both are $225~ shipped to your door step. You can't go wrong.

Buy a Scanner. Such as an Aeroforce Scan Gauge, or a Scangauge II. Typically most people go with the Aeroforce as it can sit in a Pillar/HUD pod. While the Scangauge II is an awkward rectangle size.

Drop to a 3.5/3.6" Pulley. Depending on how much KR you are seeing via your scan guage. Make sure you have a tune lined up when you drop pulley sizes. Custom - In car tunes are the best. If for some odd reason you can't get one. Go with a Canned tune from Overkill Motor Sports and email them with your mods.

When you drop pulley sizes, be sure to change your Spark Plugs to either AL605's or AL104's. You want the "hottest" spark possible, but when your modded, you want to drop one heat range colder with a basic setup. You can also switch to a 180* Tstat. They are useless without a tune. Make sure you have the 180* when you get tuned, so your fan turn on points and what not can get changed. Or, you can always just leave the 195* Tstat in. Whatever floats your boat. Both will work.

When all is completed, you should have a nice Grocery Getter. Roughly 30whp~ increase. Nice little pep to your step, eh? If the mod bug has hit you, and money isn't a problem, now you can get into bigger "Mods" such as a Cam/Heads/Intercooler. But dont really think about that until you first A: Figure our what the hell you are doing, and B: When you have your Basic setup first.

Now, after you have re-read the "Safely Modding Your 3800" Thread about 294,993 times + this post I made for you, and you still have no idea what you are doing, then I suggest you do not mod at all and leave it stock.

Hope this helps a tad. Happy Modding.
 
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My buddy has a Stock '97 GTP and he just put an ebay $25 HAI on it and you can hear the whine much better. taadaa...

But other then that, Dan and TLSheff hit it perfect. No other words are needed. And Honestly I would not do a coolant system flush, I had a bad experience where it wasn't flushed properly and I had crud in my system afterwards that caused blockages in my radiator. If you want to do it properly, unhook your heater hoses behind your alternator, flush it with a hose. Pull your radiator out and have it ("cored" I think is the right term for it?) pretty much cleaned out like new. I had mine done for like $50 or $60 at a local radiator shop. While your radiator is out, take your thermostat housing off and lay it to the side.. Next take the hose and shove it up the lower hose and turn it on.. all the coolant and water should come out through the hole where the thermostat was. Then take the hose to the thermostat hole and do the same.. do it a couple times until you see just clean water. I'd fill with straight water, get to operating temp, pull your lower hose after cool to drain. Refill with water and repeat. after clean water comes out you should be good to put green antifreeze in.

Is this more work then it's worth, maybe.. but if you have a high mileage car, you will have gunk and crust in you cooling system that the flush will break up, but may not eliminate and it could get stuck elsewhere... That's my $.02 with the coolant swap...
 
Just got a chance to read over all the replies real quick but will re-read and digest everything tomorrow. I also plan to move this to the Rides forum and will post a link here when I do that.

One thing that was asked and I feel stupid for not mentioning. My car is a 2001 Grand Prix GTP and has about 75000 miles
 
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