• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

GR8racingfool

GR8racingfool

New member
One name says it all.

Polishing, powder coating, chrome plating, anodizing, custom fabrication (including Lathe, CNC/NC work), rebuilding, installment and so on.

3/12/07 update:
Just showing that once its been polished, and cleaned by me, they then get a special chemical coating of my own creation to sorta seal the aluminum so good, that it will bead water off the polished finish.



The blower in this video has just been polished where I completely disassemble the blower prior to doing so. Because once its done, you want to give the main parts a very thorough cleaning to remove any and all buffing pad material and rubbing compound before its reassembled and used.

Why show water? Well, sometimes the engine bay does get a little wet, and just thought a visual of the sealer in action would be the best way to describe it and how it works so well.

What does this mean long term? Well, you wont be polishing it for quite some time once its been done as compared to other things that get polished and don't have a sealer put on it. Over time, the unsealed/protected aluminum will oxidize and tarnish giving the once had shiny polished finish a dull frosty appearance.




Examples:
1fastgtp6.jpg

PPGenV2.jpg

MattLGenV3.jpg

2alternatorsoutside.jpg

cpdogbones1.jpg

foursomeendlinks.jpg

foursomeendlinks2.jpg

strutknobs.jpg

CFshiftboot1.jpg

SCsuck1.jpg


Email is the same, [email protected]

~F~
 
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Niiice. :cool:


But wtf is this?
foursomeendlinks.jpg

Those are billet aluminum end link replacements. On the front anti-sway bar the stock one is plastic, and almost every time is already cracked or broken, plus the stock bolt never likes to come out as it will rust dang near solid to the plastic spacer.

I was cracking mine about every year. Most people never check their suspension, but I make a habit of it at every oil change. (especially the way I drive) Thats when I started seeing this problem.

I replaced them the first time with a good used set, and not too long later, it was cracked again. I had a set made from billet aluminum and gave them a try for a year or two before showing others. Everyone liked them so I had a batch of around 50 made up. ZZP even asked if I would have them made for them so they could resell on their site. I decided not to go into business like that with them, and they understood. But didn't stop them from selling the GMPP/KONI strut knobs as soon as I sold out of mine.

The ones pictured are the second styled ones I had made. The first ones looked like an hour glass, these I called the "four some spacers". If they are made again, I will change the look of them just for the fun of it.

And how much does this cost? :D
cpdogbones1.jpg

You supply the dog bones and pay return shipping, you would be looking at $40.00 for the set to be chrome plated. Those were done up for pimpprix, he was the fist person I believe to ever have a set like these chromed, and x1fastgtpz had the motor mounts for his car chromed, but he was running the RAT billet dog bones.

Combined together...they would look pretty damn cool IMO.

~F~
 
Damn, I may have to take you up on that offer even though I don't need to. lol

I just sent my fuse box cover and valve cover off to be airbrushed so I'm thinking I need to do a little something extra as well.

Also, which do you think would be cheaper? Sending some Pontiac Aztec mounts in as well to be polished, or sending in stock mounts to be chromed along with those?
 


Jason, ever looked into a phenolic spacer for us Non-ic'ed guys? Something about .5" thick would be perfect. As I will not put an IC on the car till they get a good Gen V design done.
 


Hey, while you're at it Farns, what do those end link pieces go for. I remember seeing those and missed out on getting a set.

I was able to have them made for $20.00 a set, ($10.00 each) and $5.00 in shipping. That was then when I had an awesome connection having these made. He since retired/got injured and doesn't do this type of work any more. Been looking for a new shop, but most charge what retail would sell these for if they were sold through a "real vendor" or "real company". I'm currently looking for, sifting through several local companies to make these again. Hopefully for about the same price or less is my goal.

~F~
 
Jason, ever looked into a phenolic spacer for us Non-ic'ed guys? Something about .5" thick would be perfect. As I will not put an IC on the car till they get a good Gen V design done.

Have thought about one, yes, but having it made by myself...or me being in charge no. I was going to get one through AnimuL, but that whole thing kinda unraveled.

I myself am not inter cooled myself, nor plan to ever be, and I don't "need" one, but would be nice to have. But I already have a spacer almost ready to go on under my blower now, its my direct injection nitrous spacer plate prototype.

~F~
 
If you looking into a spray bar in the spacer i know a guy who can do it in a product run jason. DevilsOwn looked into making up nitrous kits for awhile since we got 1/2 the stuff here to do so. We made up a few protype kits, just got busy with others ans the nitrous market is flooded.

But he is the guy who makes all of nx express bilit noids I think he makes the spray bars for them too. He quantity's are pretty reasonable too.
 
Somebody needs to figure that out because spraying it through the SC give cyl 1 too much Giggle Gas and its not evenly distributed. Someday i will have the bottle. Someday. ;)
 


Usually givers #3 & #4 cylinders too much, but I know what you meant.

Anything at or under a 70 shot can be safely sprayed through the blower as long as your car is tuned correctly.

When I ran the nitrous, I stayed around a 60-65 shot, and only used to to cool intake air, and didn't use it to make power. That was just a side effect.

With this spacer plate I made from billet, each intake runner will get a even shot.

~F~
 
Speaking of Nitrous... couldn't a spray bar be somehow install in the LIM? Basicallly i'm wanting to know, do I HAVE TO have a spacer? I know if I ever considered this, a spacer would give me terrible hood clearance problems, so a spacer for my application would not work at all... unless I want to run no hood at all.
 
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