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Wheel Bearing Bolts - Replace?

BlackGS

BlackGS

New member
Time to do the front driver wheel bearing - again. Last time I reused the three bolts holding the bearing from the back, but I noticed the service manual is pretty clear about using new bolts. Should I get replacements? If so, where can I find them? New bearing didn't come with them.
 


black on black. (dont see that to often) my twin car is here lol


i reused the bolts too. also doing the d/s front today or tomorrow, its raining today.
 
I've never replaced them...I for always stick a drop of lock tight on them ever since my freak accident where a caliper bracket bolt vibrated loose.
 
I'm GUESSING that they are torque-to-yield bolts (like on a lot of cylinder heads) so when you torque them the first time (when they're new) you literally are deforming them a little (it's designed this way) and as a result, it's impossible to reuse them and get the same clamping force as the first time.
 
i watched the dealership reuse the hub bolts on my 03 GMC truck. 3 times on each side. then i tore the front wheel off 2 times same side both times. so add 2 more hubs to the list. bolts to the hub were re used every time.

if they really wanted you to change the bolts the hub would come with new bolts. dab of loc tight and make em good and tight works just fine.
 


I replace them when I do wheel bearings, if they come loose at all it's not something I want to have happen. Besides if your already spending $200 or so on a new set of bearings might as well drop the $5 for new bolts, espcially when it says in bold font to replace them.
 
Talked to a coworker who has done many of these hub bearings on his and his daughter's car: he says they're not torque to yield bolts to his knowledge (contrary to my first post) but that it's such a nasty environment down there that those bolt heads could deteriorate and get difficult to remove and replace (repeat repeat) them without risking stripping the heads.. and that's why they encourage you to replace them.. just his thoughts I don't know if it's true.

So I guess I don't know what to believe for sure but I like addzradd's answer of if you're spending $200 and the shop manual says get new bolts it's cheap insurance.
 
miken123 said:
Talked to a coworker who has done many of these hub bearings on his and his daughter's car: he says they're not torque to yield bolts to his knowledge (contrary to my first post) but that it's such a nasty environment down there that those bolt heads could deteriorate and get difficult to remove and replace (repeat repeat) them without risking stripping the heads.. and that's why they encourage you to replace them.. just his thoughts I don't know if it's true.

So I guess I don't know what to believe for sure but I like addzradd's answer of if you're spending $200 and the shop manual says get new bolts it's cheap insurance.
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I could buy this explanation. I've replaced the rear bearings and getting ready to do it again. Those puppies get seized up in the knuckle and are a PITA to remove. (Hint: Heat up the knuckle with a torch). So, replacing them because of the possibility of them seizing is quite plausible.
 
tdm571 said:
I could buy this explanation. I've replaced the rear bearings and getting ready to do it again. Those puppies get seized up in the knuckle and are a PITA to remove. (Hint: Heat up the knuckle with a torch). So, replacing them because of the possibility of them seizing is quite plausible.
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Yup the same coworker highly recommended using a torch to warm up the bolts saying that'd loosen any lock tite on them. Good ideas everyone.
 
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