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What next to test for power windows?

JayHerlth

New member
I had gone through and tested my fuse for the power windows. Only get a couple hundred milivolts at the most when switches are thrown. As for the power to the windows themselves, still only about a hundred or so milivolts going to the motors.

Replaced fuse a while back before testing. Though there is ample power going through to the fuse? What else is before my fuses in the glove box? Another relay? If so, where?

Previous thread: http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=90212

1999 GTP
 
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All good.

I kinda think we need to post up or find a schematic so you can look for all the parts. After what they did inside the doors..I'd be leary of what else they might have done.
 
I might take the extra hour or so when I'm free to take off the other doors and check them out. Ive got work in the food industry, can't quite get myself dirty before going in an hour from now.

I've searched for an online schematic for the Grand Prix windows circuitry, never found anything or it came from another car. Etc.
 


That's a 2000 GP BTW. Should be nearly the same

My main issue right now that I can't see in the diagrams is, are there any other places to check before the fuse under the glove compartment?

Like I said, I was getting ample readings from the fuse but not much of anything. The motors do get a very incredibly small amount of power when the switch is thrown but nothing to even make the motor even try to move.

Edit: motors are fine, used a drill battery to see if they rolled up/down.
 


It's minimal. I noticed when I pressed the passenger switch up/down it made it read differently. But again, it's only about a hundred or two milivolts.
 


Maybe the window switch itself is dead.

I replaced the switch, it's not the switch. I had also checked for power to the fuse. It's got power. Checked for a break in the wires, nada. Now when I test for power in the motor wires when pressing the switch I only get 0.23-0.25 volts. Then back to 0.0 volts when the switch isn't pressed.

What gives?
 
You do have key on while trying all these tests right? Because windows are retained power, which turn off with key off.

Accessory power was on, even turned the car on to triple check myself.

Edit: so I know the switch is assigning power where it needs to go, but why does the entire switch only have at most 0.25 volts going to it?
 
Keep in mind the switch reverses voltage. I haven't tried testing at the main switch before..I typically go to the motor plug. That way you'll either be expecting +12V or -12V depending on which way you are heading
 
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