• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Using EGR for DHP input

SnowFlake

SnowFlake

Banned
I'm looking to add either my wideband or LIM temp sensor via the EGR. I've heard a ton of people talking about it but I've never seen how. As of now, when I want to see what the delta temps are I have to disconnect my IAT sensor and use that, I also can't log my wideband and I would like to start doing that via the EGR or the A/D input on the DHP itself.

Any ideas?
 




Well..you want to bring the WB analog wires to the green thing on the side of the DHP then setup the gauge. I think DHP has most WB's already setup and you can import them right from the software. Since you have DHP, login to the Powertuner site and do a search (since I've never set one up with DHP, I'm not sure if my advice is any good at all)

On the post rotor temps. Take a look at the stock IAT and replicate the input wire, then run your other wire to the EGR pin that you'll be using to bring that data back to the DHP and reconfigure the EGR input to be the same as the IAT. Heck..probably could copy that IAT config for it.
 
So, tap the lighter colored IAT wire for juice and run that to the LIM IAT... then take another wire from the LIM IAT and put it into the middle pin on the EGR plug?
I've already got the WB up and running on the DHP... now I just need to figure out the post blower IAT and I'll be all set.
BTW I'm using an IAT2 sensor out of a 2009 Shelby GT500KR, it was 15 bucks shipped on ebay.
Part number TS10098
 
Last edited:
The brown EGR wire gets the 5 volt output from the wideband to go to it. I sometimes put the wideband ground to the EGR ground to increase accuracy.

The IAT does not operate on voltage, so you would need to build a voltage divider, and setup your own calibration in order to run it on a 5v input somewhere (ac/egr/dhp box). I would probably build the voltage divider with a 5k ohm resistance, and splice into the 5v rail on the PCM.

I ended up making a little switch for my 2 temp sensors... Make 1 run, then switch and make the run again after the intercooler recovers. Preintercooler temps shouldnt vary much in a few miles.
 
Pin D grey = 5v reference
pin c brown = pintle position
pin B black = pintle position ground
pin A red = valve control
pin E white = valve control

Colors are different sometimes.
 


From left to right my wires are light brown, light brown, tan, black, light brown.
I don't see any letters on the plug.
 
Even if it isnt labled (which they are) it is easy to determine if you know the order of the first 5 letters of the alphabet, and 2 wire colors that do line up.
 
I have the sensor wired up to the EGR... it seemed like it was working for a few pulls and then it just started moving incoherently. I tried hooking it up to the IAT that's still in my intake tube and the same **** happens... just moves without any sort of relevance to what's actually going on.

Voltage to the EGR is 4.84 at all times when I wired it up independently instead of tying in power from the regular IAT.
 


damn ur a bad ass.

and oh, you wouldnt really need to be an expert to realize every other sensor on the motor that uses 5 volts has a ground and a signal output wire on it... An expert would not be required to make that observation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top