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Torque Converter

fri3dchick3n

New member
Ok, so I have been chasing this problem for a while now. Finally decided to get my fuel pressure tested. Pressure was all good, I think.. At idle it was 41-42 PSI. So went out on a test run with a mechanic that had this HUGE scanner hooked up to it.

While monitoring my torque converter, the line was jumping up and down a lot. When I would let go of the pedal, the line would instantly drop, meaning torque converter is "off?". And while driving while it was slipping, I would tap my brakes while still on the throttle and the rpms would instantly jump to 2100 or so from 1k rpms. I was driving between 45-55 this whole time, Supposevly when the TC is supposed to kick in. I think the mechanic said he felt the "shutter" from 0-90 rpms. Not sure what exactly that means? Is that terribly bad?

Is this information true?

So I dropped off my car at the transmission center that rebuilt my transmission about my 10k miles ago and they say everything is fine and no TC codes. I was convinced that it was the torque converter for sure.

What do you guys think? Any suggestions or comments? I really think that's it the TC. Or what?

This problem is really bothering me! I just want it fixed. Only vehicle for me and my wife.
 


Torque converter will unlock when you hit the brake. So jumping rpm when you do that is normal, sounds like the tcc selonoid is locking and unlocking the converter when it should not be.
 
Mkay so it is transmission related. What can I say to the tranny center to get them take a look at the solenoid. I really think they are tired of seeing me there and are try to get rid of me.. Well I paid a lot of money getting it rebuilt. I'll see what I can do. Grr. AngryFace
 
My first and second read through, I didn't see anything out of place except the 1,000 to 2,100 jump. A TCC will only make a 200-500 rpm difference. Some slippage is normal depending on how you are driving, length of time at the same throttle and calculated torque etc etc.

Most odd feelings in/out of TCC are commonly ignition related. Also the TPS and MAF play a large part in how our transmissions shift/act/feel.
 
My test run I was taking it easy, nice and steady throttle. As soon as I would hit the 45 MPH mark the TC would instantly kick in, rpms lower to 1k-1200 and rpm needle fluttering, while vibrations occur and stay until I tap brakes or let go of throttle.

MAF is clean. TPS, I had a code for after I cleaned my TB. Unplugged and plugged back in. Cleared code, never came back.
 
Ok, stopped by tranny place, talked to the guy who worked on my car. Found out that they only added dexron 3 in my tranny. Could this cause anything?

My ebcm is Not working, will abs and TCS affect this?
 


The biggest cause of a flutter at low rpm and higher load (3rd/4th gear) is ignition. Ensure your plugs, wires and coils are all good and up to date. That TPS code may be a symptom/cause. I'd watch the TPS on a scanner to ensure it moves smoothly and w/o issue. Any flutter/fluctuation is a cause to change it. MAF/TPS as you knwo are big contributors, so is ignition. Many times that fluttering isn't related to the trans at all.
 
Well, The MAF was recently cleaned up. So that is good. I took off my TPS, it was clean. But I replaced it anyway. The car idles overall a lot nicer and smoother. My shifts at lower RPMs are not nearly as aggressive as before and shifts good. But, Im still having this problem. My coils are brand new, a few months old. Wires, bought them earlier this year. Plugs, I replaced twice this year so far trying to get rid of this but they were Autolights both times. Maybe its time to try out those fancy Iridium/Platinum plugs?
 
Oki doki, I replaced my plugs. And the problem is still there.. Not surprising. Would the crank position sensor create any symptoms like mine, or the fact that my abs/TCS isn't working?
 
remove your battery cables, touch them together for a few seconds, let car sit overnite.Hook up battery in the morning and
try it out!
 


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