dbextreme
New member
Ok, I know obviously what I need and I will be ordering a TEP trans within the year. I just can't at the moment after my build or I'll be single if I don't get other honey doo's done... LOL
1999 Grand Prix GT 154K. Before the top swap build the trans worked flawlessly. Even with my foot, I saw/felt no signs of slippage.
After the build, same feeling for about 180 - 200 miles until the P1811 code popped up and my trans temps were reaching 230*. The temp could be due to slippage? I don't know... I'd clear the code with the Aeroforce and then it would go away for about two days. Everyone knows the symptoms so I'm not going to elaborate. My question is: I have to pull the motor back out to fix an oil leak somewhere up front. I want to pull it because I can quickly and it's easer to work on outside the car. While the motor is out, I thought I'd pull the trans with it. While doing so; I'll pull both pans, change the filter, add a transgo shift kit which I've already purchased, and I'll add a new PCS in the valve body. I figure since it's out, $100 might not be a bad investment if I can get the trans to last another year at the most until I'm ready to order my trans. Is it a waste to try to band aid or have others had success doing this?
Mods are in my sig, and yes a canned tune but I have heard good reviews from Intense tunes. I will have an incar tune later, guy down the road does LS builds and he'd tune for me. I don't see those mods raising my heat of my trans that high, or could the extra power cause it? My driving was mild to moderate. I have not hard launched it yet, but I have done a couple WOT pulls from 30 - 40 mph rolls. I do live on top of a mountain so anytime I leave, I go down and back up it. I know also the temp sensor is on the valve body, where all the heat is so I'd assume higher temps there anyway.
I know this is vague, but I'm looking for others that had similar issues and outcomes.
1999 Grand Prix GT 154K. Before the top swap build the trans worked flawlessly. Even with my foot, I saw/felt no signs of slippage.
After the build, same feeling for about 180 - 200 miles until the P1811 code popped up and my trans temps were reaching 230*. The temp could be due to slippage? I don't know... I'd clear the code with the Aeroforce and then it would go away for about two days. Everyone knows the symptoms so I'm not going to elaborate. My question is: I have to pull the motor back out to fix an oil leak somewhere up front. I want to pull it because I can quickly and it's easer to work on outside the car. While the motor is out, I thought I'd pull the trans with it. While doing so; I'll pull both pans, change the filter, add a transgo shift kit which I've already purchased, and I'll add a new PCS in the valve body. I figure since it's out, $100 might not be a bad investment if I can get the trans to last another year at the most until I'm ready to order my trans. Is it a waste to try to band aid or have others had success doing this?
Mods are in my sig, and yes a canned tune but I have heard good reviews from Intense tunes. I will have an incar tune later, guy down the road does LS builds and he'd tune for me. I don't see those mods raising my heat of my trans that high, or could the extra power cause it? My driving was mild to moderate. I have not hard launched it yet, but I have done a couple WOT pulls from 30 - 40 mph rolls. I do live on top of a mountain so anytime I leave, I go down and back up it. I know also the temp sensor is on the valve body, where all the heat is so I'd assume higher temps there anyway.
I know this is vague, but I'm looking for others that had similar issues and outcomes.
Need a shift kit anyway, if the PCS fixes the problem.
I dabed the sealant on in the corners pre and post timing cover gasket like on a LIM but not much higher up on the block.. I did use my finger and put a thin layer on the block and on the timing cover gasket. The only RTV I put on the pan was specific white oil pan gasket stuff I got when I worked for VW (maybe that's why.. LOL) Does the sealant expire??? I have had the white stuff for a while, could be the issue as well. I did teflon paste all the cover bolts, but now that I think about it I forgot to clean out the holes only the bolts.. I drove it today and I have 2 50 cent piece size in my driveway now and the horse shoe bracket has a slight puddle. Lower coolant elbow?? Both of those are the new aluminum ones and are bone dry, the snout of my supercharger is bone dry (the original one was leaking out the seal BAD but ordered a rebuilt one from Intense and have since replaced) I don't think the residuals of that is finally showing up after 200 miles. I did use a paper timing cover gasket, but have a metal one here. I used the paper one because it's a tad thicker then the metal one. When I remove the timing cover and if I have no rubbing, I'll replace what's there with the metal one (or do you have a preference on which, paper or metal. I still have one of each NIB)