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Tie rod broke, now strange knocking

H

hollilynn

New member
96 GTP, 3.4L V6 DOHC
Hello all. Yesterday while driving my inner tie rod snapped in half. It careened be to the right where I lightly sideswiped a truck (about 10mph) no damage to truck. Although I have a long dent on my quarter panel, it is very shallow (the truck had the extended wheel well). It was not pushed into the engine compartment at all. However, now when I turn on my car I hear a loud grinding type noise. I did notice the front passenger shock is sitting too high I am replacing the tie rod tomorrow, however, I don't know what could be causing the grinding/tapping sound. It does it in all gears at idle. I have a brand new (under 1k miles) transmission, but the car will not move at all. I don't know if this is because of the broken rod or if maybe the fluid line snapped. Could the larger portion of the broken rod be hitting anything? Any insight would be appreciated.
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you snapped the inner tie rod.

if you jack the car up spin that wheel by hand see if you feel or hear anything, the hub may have been killed with the impact. or the axle, or maybe even the lower control arm is bent or the strut.
 
You don't think it damaged engine or tranny? Is this a relatively easy fix if one of your options is the culprit. Also I should add that the plastic protection inside the wheel well is shredded. I pulled part of it off because it was rubbing the tire. I am wonder if maybe a piece got into the compartment and is hitting a moving part. I can't pinpoint the location of the noise. Thanks for the quick reply.
 
hard to say from those pics, but it looks like it took a good shot. stuff could be bent and not lined up right and rubbing.

post a vid if you can. they can be a big help sometimes.
 
I can do that tomorrow in the light. Inspecting under the hood, nothing is pushed over, not even the inner lining by the quarter panel. The noise is much less noisy in park and neutral, becomes much louder in reverse and drive. But like I said, I haven't moved the car, I still don't know if a busted rod will prevent a car from driving forward??? I didn't try it in reverse. I am worried about the shock that is obviously pushed higher than the driver side. Only the bottom quarter of the shock is visible in the wheel well as opposed to the other side where at least half of it can be seen.
 
it seems like it either something is hitting the engine pulleys, or the axle got pushed into the tranny and maybe broke the shaft inside there or some thing like that.

dont drive the car till the inner tie rod is fixed. you wont be able to steer the car at all like that. your gonna need a inner tie rod removal tool too. they rent them at the parts stores, well free rental, you leave a deposit and get a full refund when the tool is returned.
 


My husband just went out there. He said that he pushed the tire a little straighter and the noise reduced by half. I hope it isn't the tranny. I just paid 2400 for it two months ago. I doubt my warranty would cover it if it was.
 
I am on the phone with my mechanic uncle in Missouri and he agrees about the axle. He inspected images and pinpointed where the axle has pull out slightly from the tranny. Provided instructions on how to fix. Said I the fiberglass inner bumper is rubbing against the belt pulley (as seen in photo) and that is what is causing the noise. Also said brake line will need replaced with inner and outer tie rod. Would you be inclined to agree?
 


Update: The knocking was indeed caused by a loose piece of plastic hitting the belt pulley. Have tie rod on, putting tire on now then taking it for a spin. There is an almost unnoticeable bend in the A-arm. I am sure it will wear my tire, but it should be good until tax time.
 
Going deeper, the CV broke so my new tranny wouldn't engage. Had to hit up AutoZone for another. Will post photos. Images too small using the option here. Will have to put on Photobucket. FYI: AutoZone has changed computer systems. Their 3.4's are listed under 3.1 parts and vice versa. They don't know when it will be corrected. Didn't even know until I had to exchange three parts.
 
The car is drivable, but I will not be driving it until after next weekend when I can get the new control arm in. The wheel has to be turned 45 degrees to drive straight. My brother had to use a circular saw and cut off a large section of the panel that was rubbing the tire. No big deal since I have to replace that and the door anyway. Good thing my brother is the manager of a paint and body shop. Should I keep it red or do something different? My interior is charcoal leather, so pretty much any color. Also I am using photobucket to upload these images now and they are still tiny. It also will only upload one image at a time per post. Anyway, this is my car before the accident. I have a few more of the repair work being done, but can't upload them for some reason via photobucket 377595_4593332237208_1636393805_n_zpse73d7854.jpg
 
id change both lca's. if you get dorman arms they run about 40 a side. i always like to change both sides when changing front end parts. your gonna need and an alignment as it is now.
 


Rockauto.com and amazon and eBay are your best friends...use those first instead of messing around with used crap from the jy
 
Alright, figured out how to show better images.
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