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Ticking?

jayroca

jayroca

Banned
Driving the car on a long trip yesterday i notice a ticking noise coming from the driver side rear of the engine by the rear and valve cover and rear header near the downpipe i can make a vid later on but it actually started happening when i got my exhaust welded... 3 inch speed daddy flex welded with 2.5 inch piping from the exhaust shop the welds look ok .. Could that be it? Replace rear header gasket? They are felpro gaskets fyi thanks
 


on a cold start up, sick your hand back there feeling for the wind via the leak.

you can also look for any black sooty looking areas, those are a leak most of the time.
 
Check the header bolt that's under the tube for the EGR coming off the rear header. Mine ticked real bad until it warmed up and the metal expanded and then sealed up. Tightened it up and problem solved.
 
ScottyBDoggs said:
on a cold start up, sick your hand back there feeling for the wind via the leak.

you can also look for any black sooty looking areas, those are a leak most of the time.
Click to expand...
Ok i will check that
BillBoost37 said:
Turn radio up and and drive on..
Click to expand...
No and here i thought you were her to help they were right about you lol
buck531 said:
Check the header bolt that's under the tube for the EGR coming off the rear header. Mine ticked real bad until it warmed up and the metal expanded and then sealed up. Tightened it up and problem solved.
Click to expand...
Now you might have something... It ticks by that location but could it be the gaskets? Should i swap to the metal ones?
 


Which gaskets did you use >_< hope you either reused or got new oem ones


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What order did you tighten stuff up?

Look at the last thing you tightened... you'll find that leak if....the tick isn't a motor about to pop.. :th_peaceout:
 
Fail

Seems to be a hit or miss. Some guys do fine with them.I've used them before.. Leaked like a mofo. I tossed my oem ones out and regretted it. End up spending the $15 and grab a new oem set from the dealership.


I'd make sure that's where it's leaking from first before you go through the hassle

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Bill...The speed daddy headers i have dont fit to a t so i tighten everything from front to rear manifold slowly to insure they bolt fine then i threw the clamp on the crossover along with header wrap..
Cant be the motor...havent beat on it whatsoever... Daily drive thats it.. On a 3.6 pulley no codes..nuffin
 


Then fire it up cold and move your hands around the exhaust (don't actually touch it). When you feel a breeze..you know where the leak is.
 
When I installed my SD headers I tightened them all down nice and tight but apparently they have a tendency to back out. The stud under my EGR tube was finger tight. Haven't had a problem in 2 years since I tightened it up.
 
Ok i will check it out and check the egr as well... I will say i am missing 1 bolt to the rear manifold could that be the ticking? Do all bolts need to be used for the rear manifold its ticking is come from the rear and it gets louder when i get on it
 
So i started the car before it got to operating temperature and felt the rear header rear valve cover by the egr and felt the breeze right by the egr..whats next replace with oem gasket? And re tighten? With that breeze ive confirmed that it isnt valvetrain related and that took alot of pressure off me thinking it was i knew i wasnt wrong during the rebuild in what i did..
 
You don't have to use all the bolts on the header. I usually just tighten down the two outside ones, or if I'm tired that day just one center bolt. I've actually trimmed the car down about 15lbs by removing a bunch of redundant fasteners.

Sorry, couldn't resist. ;)
 


Obviously i need a need a new oem gasket.. Throwing away the felpro ones . and replacing with stock oem ones hopefully that takes away the ticking noise
 
I don't recommend this because I don't know what harm it can do, but I aimed my reverse blown vacuum at the tail pipe. Made it real easy to find leaks. Didn't plug the tail pipe with it, just aimed it at it from 3" away.
 
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