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the I800COLLECT, Matt5112 and MrTube thread



thats what I didn't like about the 4 ohm 6x9 "subwoofers" they have. 88dB with 2WATT input at one meter. They think their clever by putting "2.83v" rather then the wattage

and 2.83v into 4 ohm = NOT 1 WATT

Who makes decent woofers, like 12-18" range, high sensitivity.
 
I've heard great things about some of their full range bamboos. The problem is there sensitivity; just like matt stated. I think the top of the line creative 5.1 system w/DSP utilizes tang band full range drivers. They could be on display at BB?

They go down to about 350hz. They obviously have a roll off so you'd have to place them on-axis.

AE lost my business when they wouldn't respond to emails. I've heard their 15" IB woofers are pretty mantastic tho.

I've actually had hard a hard time finding high sensitive subs these days. A buddy of mine wanted a trunk sub with a 200w amp, so I was searching. I'll look around when I get home. The most I think I've seen is 85 and 88. There's an old PPI flat piston for sale on DIYMA :D I believe it's NIB or close to it.
 
Hrmmm. a/d/s/ 310rs and 312rs approached 90db 1w/1m? Maybe it was 87.

Anyways, you're right it was Logitech NOT creative. My bad :/ I would call John or AE but I have my DIYMA R12's now. I would love to purchase the Japanese P01 to replace my 9887. 4-way DSP with R/L 30band EQ!!! I could use stock locations and rear fill.

Tubes...I say buy some tang band full range matched with a nice mid-bass. Dayton RS150 isn't too bad I heard. Everybody loves the RS180. I think you'd have a great 2-way

What kind of mounting locations?
 


For most music my bass and mids are transparent. The sub's 6db slopes help but I'm not a fan of the passive cross overs on the front speakers. I also want a warmer tweet in the car. Since my CA50.4 is showing up today I might try to switch over to an active setup this weekend. So far, bandpassed+T/A rear fill has added LOTS of depth to my system and raised the stage height tremendously while using stock locations.

The problem I have right now is that I'm limited on my DSP. To be active I'll need to run the tweets crossed high so that channels 1&2 will frun the front mids+tweets. Otherwise I need an 8channel DSP to get the tweets dipping below 3khz. The other issue is when I run active I have no way to attenuate independant speakers.

My other thought is to run channels 4&6 on my 9887 to the subs AND rear fill. T/A shouldn't effect the sub output from what I've read on sound waves. Therefore, I can apply the T/A to the full range speakers and use the LP on the amp for the subs. Picking hardware on the cheap is rough sometimes. But keeping subs+rear fill on ch5&6 would allow me to have full DSP for active setup in the front. That's probably what I'll try first.
 
That's why I need to test it. The purpose of T/A isn't to change phase. Phase change is a side effect. That's why I have to test it.
 
"RS series have terrible resonances."

I assume you meant the Dayton and not the A/D/S/ like the 308 310 and 312rs's
I've loved my 312rs' tho they are in no way high sensitivity
 
people with the courtesy to create our own thread so we stop arguing in other peoples?

And its not really "our own thread" its more along the lines of, anyone can comment and post but, we're not butting in on other peoples business, and taking over threads IMO. The 3 of us do A LOT of talking\arguing back and forth, and I felt it was best to just do it in a separate thread rather then other ones.

Was not meant to offend anyone. Would be more then willing to delete if anyone is upset.
 
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A bit harsh, don't you think Matt?


whats everyones opinion on passive radiators?
I've had a few things that used them and actually liked them. They seemed almost as sensitive as a ported design but not as boomy.
 
matt5112 said:
Okay.............


The phase....... is comparing the peaks and valley's of sound at one given point.

If they're alignment in "time" then the phase is aligned.

The result of changing the "time" is correcting for the physical distance which causes "phase" issues.

So saying that T/A isn't for correcting phase is sorta like saying buying new tires isn't for correcting my traction issue.
Click to expand...


Without explanation...that's what I was referring to :)

I never said T/A didn't correct phase. I just said that aligning phase was a side effect. At least in my perspective for car audio, the bigger issue is distance between speakers which results in a myriad of concerns including phase. These are all inevitably intertwined and T/A resolves more than just phase.

Another major concern in car audio are reflections.
 


All of the ported speakers i've used were in home use. And were bought that way. Including highend PSB speakers.

I've also heard some ported subs in cars friends had.


I've always gone back to acoustic suspension.

By the way, speaking of motor control, ever heard any of the 1970s Mcintosh speakers that had over-damped woofers and used an active EQ to boost lowend? The magnets were oversized to the point the bass rolled off bigtime below 100Hz, then the EQ boosted it back to make the speaker flat to 20Hz.


Those had extreme motor control and were still in sealed boxes ;)
 
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