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t-stat ?

stlmo_gtp

New member
so the more i think about this the more since that it makes but i would like someone to correct me if i am wrong, Ok you can buy several different t-stats either 180,160,180 drilled, or 160 drilled and they only cost about 10 bucks each, but i relized if you are really trying to get some good flow why not just take out the t-stat(during the summer only) you would have to reinstall it for the winter so that you could get heat in your car, but then you are saving 10 dollars + the shipping which is about 15 dollars for me, and you would be getting the best flow that is possible
 


the 180* is optimal for performance. A 160 can cause cylinder wash. An open Tstat would likely be worse. There is a thread on here with links to charts and several good opinions on this subject. It's not particularly about the amount of flow, but when. No thermostat would be worse than a 160. That just can't be good.

It make the best use of any thermostat, your fan settings should be cheanged to compliment which ever one you choose. I was using a 180* drilled during the summer and a 195 during the winter. Now I'm just running a 180 year around.

LOL look at what I found. http://www.grandprixforums.net/f14/what-thermostat-should-i-get-2240.html
 
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from my small block chevy days cars with no t stat may run hotter, or cold as there is nothing to slow the coolant down it tends to cavitate. Basically the way I understand it is to get the best thermal transfer from the rad you need to have a slight slow down (makes sense to me whether it is right or not I can't say)
 


180* drilled allows some coolant to bypass the tstat even when it is close. The idea behind it is to avoid thermal shock from the opening of the tstat and cooler coolant flowing through. The holes drilled in the tstat allows the temps to be more equalized.
 
what is the differace in the 180 and the 180 drilled? sorry new to the GP's

In addition to what Scotty mentioned. During the winter in cold climates, the drilled thermostat doesn't allow the engine to reach operating temps very quickly. If you don't drive very far, then it may never get up to temp.
 
Agreed. Iam using a 180* tstat in the GP and I can attest to even a 36 mile drive one way does not seem to ever get very warm though the temps float around 170 - 180* on the gauge but there are clear swings in temps when the tstat is closed vs. when it is open.

I will be switching to a different style 180* tstat when the GP is reborn in hopes of stabilizing the temps more on the upper end of the tstat rating.
 
I have a 180 self drilled only for the fact that I can bleed my system of air better with out starting the car because I have an electric water pump. I never remove my t-stat.

The GF's GTP I installed a 180 in her car, not drilled, and we leave it in there year round, and her car is a daily driver 24/7/365. No problems.

~F~
 
IMO, a drilled T-stat is just a gimmick. There's not really any reason to have it drilled. Engines have operated just fine for what....80 years on thermostats? lol
 


IMO, a drilled T-stat is just a gimmick. There's not really any reason to have it drilled. Engines have operated just fine for what....80 years on thermostats? lol

I've known cases (mostly in Canada and the North Dakota area) where the sudden in rush of cold coolant when the thermostat opens has cracked blocks.
 
There are many other cases outside of auto mechanics where too cool of water on hot metal can cause warping and or cracking. As far as the cooling system on a car, the drilled tstat in the summer does lessen the temp changes. I can tell a big difference between my 180 drilled and non drilled 180, fan settings being the same. Does it really matter? I have no idea. If we have a really hot summer, I'll likely put the drilled in until late fall.
 
I've known cases (mostly in Canada and the North Dakota area) where the sudden in rush of cold coolant when the thermostat opens has cracked blocks.

I can almost bet they had the wrong mixture in the system then, I have never seen one do that, but I have had my gas freeze while stopped at a light (so it was cold that night)
 
IMO, a drilled T-stat is just a gimmick. There's not really any reason to have it drilled. Engines have operated just fine for what....80 years on thermostats? lol

But haven't you read ZZP testing on this. LOL

I only did it cause one other member pointed out the fun fact of having an electric water pump, and being able to bleed the system fast and easy. It works too. Other than that, not a damn bit of difference between Heathers and I's car.

~F~
 
I tried a drilled one very briefly...didn't notice anything, and even in the summer time my 180 barely sees that. I have no need for one, so I guess that's where my reasoning lies.
I honestly have never seen the issues with cold coolant and a block cracking, but that doesn't mean that it doesn't happen.

Back to the story though, I gave the T-stat back to my friend and said have fun with your $20 T-stat.

oh well.
 


Some stock thermostats for other cars have a hole in them, for whatever reason, only they know.

You are right about bleeding the system, the drilled is much easier.
 
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