@chris b. same kind of car. Got a buddy who was a mechanic for several years. Will run it by him and see what he thinks. I was hesitant about the cps. What you're describing sounds identical. Once, it happened when we first got it and the low trac and track off lights came on as well, but haven't seen that since.
If I could go back in time, I would test the CPS, but I can't. My buddy is a 20+ year Tech, but I have to pry him away from his 4x4 project to look at my ride. He says he will, but when. LOL
I will keep you posted when I figure it out.
Chris that isn't necessarly 100% true. The crank sensors on these cars are very odd and fail reasonably often. I've seen things from an odd hiccup on the highway (technically car stalled and restarted itself quickly), to the car not starting, to the car stalling randomly and a few other issues. Most of the time you will not see a P0336 code for the crank sensor.
Technically there is a crank variation learn that can be done. However to get the car up and running, you don't need to time or adjust anything speciifcally.
There's a write up on it. Search on the words "Eas y crank" without the space in the first word and my screen name.
85% correct? LOL I hear ya Bill. My scenario is this.....
Started the car one morning, no tach and "trac" light on. Checked the Aeroforce and had P0336. Did some research and my symptoms point to a bad CPS. Had tech buddy change it for me. Nothing changed and his super-dooper Snap-On scan tool wouldn't do a case relearn; not sure if this was his scan tool or the fact the P0336 was still there. I did a relearn with the Aeroforce, and nothing changed. And in all this, the car has always started, and runs fine. My MPG is down by about 1mpg or so (I do mostly highway driving), which is to be expected with the 18x signal being gone. Oh, and I have noticed extra pinging when the pedal gets near the metal, so I have been keeping said pedal away from said metal. LOL
From all the research I have compiled, the car won't start if it doesn't see both the 3x and 18x signal. I will have to chase the wiring to make sure all is well, but buddy is leaning towards either a bad ICM, or bad wiring between the ICM and PCM. The internet says the wiring can be an issue at the ICM and/or around the PCM at the A/C drier.
If anybody can shed any other light on this, it would be appreciated; might help the OP too.
I know my buddy can and will figure it out, but I would love to beat him to it.
PS: Bill, is this the thread you are referring too?
http://www.grandprixforums.net/reluctors-programming-all-sorts-fun-56130.html