• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Stattama kit, Built trans, Ported heads, spoilers, Alpine PDX amps+more

I think they designed these engines pretty good for boost, they are pretty much bullet proof hi or low comp.

And who the fck asks the wife for permission you girls need to get your balls back. I told the women I was buying a turbo for the gp years ago, she said if I do she is gone. Its been turbo what 4ish years? And guess who is on the couch to the right of me.........yup STILL there!

SO mu ch to upgrade? Bolt the thing on and go boosting, dont run 20 psi on a stock trans and you should be crusing for a while, my pump was going out on the trans only reason I beefed it up.
 


Does the spring isolators include front upper & lower? Include the rear lower as well?

Strut mounts and bearings for the front or just mounts?

Interested.
Yes whole shabang. Front upper and lowers, rear lowers. All four mounts, and the fronts have bearings. HOWEVER. It's looking like I MIGHT keep them and get some dirt cheap struts to put on the car and drive it.

Buy a $5 roll of heavy duty bubble wrap and some 3M packaging tape - all set
Might work. Got that **** at Walmart?

PurpleGuy, you're just tempting me with the stattama setup here! I might have to piss off the wife by using the tax return on this.... :th_laugh-lol3:
Buy it, you'll love it.

You should, turbos are tons of fun :D
Listen to this guy.

I'm just worried about my trans and how I'm going to deal with the compression ratio of l36 engine without melting a piston! I wish there wasn't so much that needed to be upgraded too :(

Engineers need to design things for turbo in mind! Screw cost saving analysis! I'll let that poor schmuck buy it brand new off the lot and waste his money! Then buy for $200 on Craigslist when it's broken! (Like what I did with my car!) :)
L36 doesn't care. Alex ran his L36 at over 500whp on this setup IIRC. The only thing that really NEEDS upgraded is the trans. It'll make plenty of power with a baby cam, or even a stock cam for that matter, with stock heads and all.
 
Walmart and one of those dollar stores. The dollar store I know for sure has rolls of 3M packaging tape for $1 vs $5-6 like say at the post office or something.
 
I ran an l36, it’s better for turbo anyways. Run the l26 uim and do the HD diff upgrade if you haven’t already and keep boost low while you save for a trans. But buy a tuner before you do anything else if you don’t already have one.
 
Yes whole shabang. Front upper and lowers, rear lowers. All four mounts, and the fronts have bearings. HOWEVER. It's looking like I MIGHT keep them and get some dirt cheap struts to put on the car and drive it.

Alright, well if you decide not to keep them, I'll take them. Would just need a price shipped to 53718. Paypal ready.
 
Walmart and one of those dollar stores. The dollar store I know for sure has rolls of 3M packaging tape for $1 vs $5-6 like say at the post office or something.
Okay. I'll check it out. Thanks.

I ran an l36, it’s better for turbo anyways. Run the l26 uim and do the HD diff upgrade if you haven’t already and keep boost low while you save for a trans. But buy a tuner before you do anything else if you don’t already have one.
Or he could just buy my trans too? Haha

Alright, well if you decide not to keep them, I'll take them. Would just need a price shipped to 53718. Paypal ready.
Will do
 


I'm just worried about my trans and how I'm going to deal with the compression ratio of l36 engine without melting a piston! I wish there wasn't so much that needed to be upgraded too :(

Engineers need to design things for turbo in mind! Screw cost saving analysis! I'll let that poor schmuck buy it brand new off the lot and waste his money! Then buy for $200 on Craigslist when it's broken! (Like what I did with my car!) :)
Intercooler and/or e85 is how you keep from melting pistons with the higher compression.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 
I can honestly say I've never heard of someone melting a piston in a 3800. Chipping them sure, but that's usually a tune issue.
 
My pistons melted after they popped and I had to drive 20 mins home on 3 good pistons lol. The piston pieces were mashed into the valves but didn’t damage them some how.
 
I popped 3 pistons on the dyno because of too much knock on is3 setup. They popped and then the pieces got mashed up into smaller pieces. The carpet under my center console started smoking because the cat got so hot. I was able to use a wire wheel on the valves to get all the piston pieces off. I though I had a pic of them but I can’t find it.
 


Bump. Someone buy this stuff. I need a C5...I mean a house. I need a house.


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