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Standard tune up/LIM questions

Below Average Joe

Below Average Joe

New member
I am ready to do a tune-up on my GP and read Blue's write up on safe modding. I do not plan on do any heaving modding as of right now. He mentioned a few spark plugs. What would you recommend the Autolite 605 or 606. Also, would it be of any good to go with MSD spark plug wires? Also, should the LIM gaskets need replaced? If so, how? there might be a post. Link?? I am no mechanic by any means. I just want to get the best performance as I can from a regular tune-up.
 


Stick w/ stock AC Delco wires.

What year/model is your car?

As far as changing the LIM gaskets its been covered on here dozens of times. Search a bit and you will find all you need to know.

Basically, find a weekend that you can kill (2 days) and some basic hand tools, a torque wrench and go to town. Even for a newb its not too hard once you have a plan in place.
 
In that case I'd stick w/ the stock 606's. Or get some NGK TR-55 V-power plugs. Those also will work. Been running them in my 95 Bonneville and my 00GT for a while now and no issues. I just check them when I change the oil for gap and off I go.

Def. stick w/ the stock Delco wires. And no, you don't need to change the coil packs to MSD. In fact they have been known to suck. Stock packs are more than enough for most of the cars here (even the heavily modded ones).

For your tune-up I would also clean the MAF w/ approved MAF cleaner and change the fuel filter as well. Don't forget to check the air filter too.

Some additional food for thought- When you change the LIM gaskets are you going to refill w/ the Dexcool, or change the system over to the normal green coolant? Your call there. If you decide to change to green then you MUST flush the entire system to remove the Dex before you fill w/ green. Dex and any other coolant type do not mix and you will have issues as some point if you try this.

While you're doing the LIM gaskets you may as well replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets as well since I'm sure the front one is leaking by now. Probabaly dripping onto the front manifold.

Besides the LIM gaskets themselves (make sure you get the alum. ones), you will need new injector o-rings for all 6 injectors, new UIM gasket, 2 new coolant elbows (yours will break when removing the tensioner assembly), some gray RTV for the 4 corners of the LIM gaskets, brake cleaner to clean the LIM and head/block surfaces before reassembly, some towels to plug the intake runners while the LIM is off (trust me, just do it), and enough cheap oil and a filter to fill the car and have 1 quart to wash the lifter valley out.

This is just part of it, there is more in the writeups on here. Just trying to cover some of the basics.
 
FordMan77 said:
In that case I'd stick w/ the stock 606's. Or get some NGK TR-55 V-power plugs. Those also will work. Been running them in my 95 Bonneville and my 00GT for a while now and no issues. I just check them when I change the oil for gap and off I go.

Def. stick w/ the stock Delco wires. And no, you don't need to change the coil packs to MSD. In fact they have been known to suck. Stock packs are more than enough for most of the cars here (even the heavily modded ones).

For your tune-up I would also clean the MAF w/ approved MAF cleaner and change the fuel filter as well. Don't forget to check the air filter too.

Some additional food for thought- When you change the LIM gaskets are you going to refill w/ the Dexcool, or change the system over to the normal green coolant? Your call there. If you decide to change to green then you MUST flush the entire system to remove the Dex before you fill w/ green. Dex and any other coolant type do not mix and you will have issues as some point if you try this.

While you're doing the LIM gaskets you may as well replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets as well since I'm sure the front one is leaking by now. Probabaly dripping onto the front manifold.

Besides the LIM gaskets themselves (make sure you get the alum. ones), you will need new injector o-rings for all 6 injectors, new UIM gasket, 2 new coolant elbows (yours will break when removing the tensioner assembly), some gray RTV for the 4 corners of the LIM gaskets, brake cleaner to clean the LIM and head/block surfaces before reassembly, some towels to plug the intake runners while the LIM is off (trust me, just do it), and enough cheap oil and a filter to fill the car and have 1 quart to wash the lifter valley out.

This is just part of it, there is more in the writeups on here. Just trying to cover some of the basics.
Click to expand...


What size gap will I be looking for? I will most likely go with Autolite 606 plugs.

I don't plan on doing the LIM gaskets for a while. I am not too sure on how to do this. We only have one car right now and i don't feel like rushing trying to get done on a weekend and screw soemthing up. Plus, i have already had the coolent flushed and new green put in.

Would it be better if i did the DIY intake method or just stick with replacing the air filter with a new one?

I also have to replace the front sway bar since the old one is rusting through on the passanger side. I've heard this can be a pain to do, but it is worth it to me. It will save me at least $100 in labor if I had a mechanic do it. Have any suggestions on how to make this process go smooth?

I won't be doing this for two weeks because of the money situation. I'm bound to have questions since I am a noob. Thanks for the advice/help. I will soak in all i can.
 
Whatever the stock gap is. IIRC it's .052 Should be on one of the stickers under the hood or on the rad. support.

I would just stick w/ the normal airbox for now and a good paper filter. No need for K&N as the oil just screws up the MAF.

The front sway can be replaced by you no problem. Go with the Dorman bar. Go to RockAuto.com and order it from there. Comes with all new hardware including endlinks. I just put one on my GT and it made a ton of difference over the busted hollow bar the GM put on there. The Dorman bar is solid and HEAVY.

You'll want to flip the bar over so it points away from the exhaust. My Dorman actually had a sticker on it in the center that told me which way to install it, which happened to be the "flipped" version.

I didn't lower my engine cradle to get mine out or back in, but I did pop the drivers' side outer tie rod from the knuckle so I could gain some space.

Doing it by myself it took about 1.5 hours, and most of this was spent getting the new one in place correctly. Just take your time and be sure you don't damage anything else back there while pushing it through as there are steering lines, sensors, etc.. that can get in the way. May be easier to have a buddy help. And this may sound like a PSA, but please be sure to put jackstands under both sides along w/ the jack. You don't want to rock the car off the jack pulling the old one out. Can't imagine a rotor landing on your leg with the weight of the car :eek:


Here's a link to the exact bar you want from rockauto- http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1322015 Looking at about $79 + shipping
 


FordMan77 said:
Whatever the stock gap is. IIRC it's .052 Should be on one of the stickers under the hood or on the rad. support.

I would just stick w/ the normal airbox for now and a good paper filter. No need for K&N as the oil just screws up the MAF.

The front sway can be replaced by you no problem. Go with the Dorman bar. Go to RockAuto.com and order it from there. Comes with all new hardware including endlinks. I just put one on my GT and it made a ton of difference over the busted hollow bar the GM put on there. The Dorman bar is solid and HEAVY.

You'll want to flip the bar over so it points away from the exhaust. My Dorman actually had a sticker on it in the center that told me which way to install it, which happened to be the "flipped" version.

I didn't lower my engine cradle to get mine out or back in, but I did pop the drivers' side outer tie rod from the knuckle so I could gain some space.

Doing it by myself it took about 1.5 hours, and most of this was spent getting the new one in place correctly. Just take your time and be sure you don't damage anything else back there while pushing it through as there are steering lines, sensors, etc.. that can get in the way. May be easier to have a buddy help. And this may sound like a PSA, but please be sure to put jackstands under both sides along w/ the jack. You don't want to rock the car off the jack pulling the old one out. Can't imagine a rotor landing on your leg with the weight of the car :eek:


Here's a link to the exact bar you want from rockauto- More Information for DORMAN 927100 Looking at about $79 + shipping
Click to expand...


Thanks. Advanced Auto Parts carries the Dorman bar and is cheaper then the RockAuto + shipping.

I don't have many buddies...insert violin...so i will be on my own. I always use Jackstands. I have had the joy of a car fallig off of the jack.

Thanks for the support.
 
If you are using Advance..make sure you utilize their discount codes. For a huge win.

I'd lower the back of the subframe about 2 inches. The room gained is also a time saver
 
BillBoost37 said:
If you are using Advance..make sure you utilize their discount codes. For a huge win.

I'd lower the back of the subframe about 2 inches. The room gained is also a time saver
Click to expand...

Where can I find these discount codes that you speak of?? Do i have to use them online or can i use them in store?

I am not comfortable lowering the subframe. I don't know how for one and I will be screwed if i can't get it back up.
 


Koscoe said:
Where can I find these discount codes that you speak of?? Do i have to use them online or can i use them in store?

I am not comfortable lowering the subframe. I don't know how for one and I will be screwed if i can't get it back up.
Click to expand...


Advance Auto Parts Coupon Codes - all coupons, discounts and promo codes for advanceautoparts.com

Usually I can get 35-40% off.

And lowering the subframe is no harder than loosening the front subframe bolts a little bit, and then loosen the rear ones until it drops 1-2". To get it back up, just tighten the bolts back up.
 
That will only check codes when you have a service engine light on. I suppose it would work well for what it does.
 


That little guy will retrieve OBD2 codes and clear them.

Diagnosing takes learning symptoms and interpreting them along with a good site that has the FSM info for the codes, like GearChatter.com

Then it's about getting experience and each item you fix/diagnose gives you that experience. Hang out with local car guys and you'll gain even more info quicker.

That little guy won't give you running info though. Like RPM, TPS position, EGR pintle position etc. That's all good info to have as well. But with each added area you add some cost.
 
Guy..you are in Ohio.. Intense is based in Ohio..last I knew one of the local GP forums in OH was the largest that I've heard of.
 
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