• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Some questions about car audio.

T

thenervemann

New member
Okay I have a decient system i would say... well better than sum. I have a 98 grand prix. There are 2 in the front doors ( one on the bottom one toward the top) and two back speakers and all are stock except the ones on the front doors on the bottom.

If i get a system will i be able to hook up my steering wheel connections with a new deck?

I was looking at like 300-400 (at most) for a system that is pretty good with a sub.

The problem is that is my stock system good? or would i benifit with other speakers?

What kind of subs go with which types of amps like i get the watts and ohms all mixed up when it comes to connecting amps to decks and to subs....Like does a amp that puts out 300 watts push a lot of subs? What is a good size sub? what kind of subs are better square or circle? 1 or two of em? why do they go in the truck is this for safety?

if anyone isnt tired of reading all of this or getting annoyed by it could you like gimme ideas on good parts for a system?
 


thenervemann said:
Okay I have a decient system i would say... well better than sum. I have a 98 grand prix. There are 2 in the front doors ( one on the bottom one toward the top) and two back speakers and all are stock except the ones on the front doors on the bottom.
Click to expand...

If you think its decent then why are you upgrading?

If i get a system will i be able to hook up my steering wheel connections with a new deck?
Click to expand...

Not without the proper adapter for that. I know ZZ sells one, check crutchfield for a part number. Others may know on that, I dont.

I was looking at like 300-400 (at most) for a system that is pretty good with a sub.
Click to expand...

Start looking for used things for sale in your local craigs list because this stuff is expensive.

The problem is that is my stock system good? or would i benifit with other speakers?
Click to expand...

If you can't answer that, then there probably isn't any point in spending money on a system which you won't appreciate. Save it for something else you want.

What kind of subs go with which types of amps like i get the watts and ohms all mixed up when it comes to connecting amps to decks and to subs....
Click to expand...
Watt = unit of power

Amp = Unit of current

Ohm = unit of resistence

Like does a amp that puts out 300 watts push a lot of subs?
Click to expand...

That'd be good for one 10-12" entry level subwoofer.

What is a good size sub?
Click to expand...

10-12" is more than adequate for most.

what kind of subs are better square or circle?
Click to expand...

Circle. Squares cibes will flex unevely meaning more distortion than a cone.

1 or two of em?
Click to expand...

Whatever is cheaper, "looks cooler", uses less trunk space etc. you need an idea of what you're willing to live with.

why do they go in the truck is this for safety?
Click to expand...

Because everyone is too lazy to make them fire into the cabin and because there isn't enough space for a proper sub enclosure anywhere else in most cars.

if anyone isnt tired of reading all of this or getting annoyed by it could you like gimme ideas on good parts for a system?
Click to expand...

Answer above first.

You must have

A) budget, which is done.
B) Goals, unclear
C) your list of tools, unclear
D) a limit to how much you're willing to modify your car, very unclear.

Answer some of the question above first.:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Amps = power. Quality = source. Wiring?...go find some lamp cord. It's good copper and probably free at the land fill. Wrap it up to make it look as pretty as needed so you feel better about it and you're done.

Get some Sony Xplod amps or something rather...matched with a nice deck and you'll be fine. Typical output from "cranked" systems relates to about 16w per speaker and ~100db.

Audiophile systems are only as expensive as the person wishes them to be.

Sound deadening? That involves MLV and foam. Mass loaded vinyl will add weight to resonating panels which will then transfer their resonation to lower frequencies. MLV only needs to cover 25% of the center of said vibrating surfaces to remove 95% of the problem.

You match the MLV with closed cell foam to dampen the noise. Majority of the noise is transferred from the road to tires, through wheel wells, and eventually to the cabin. Fight the source.

You can have an amazing system for ~$500 if you're a good shopper :)

The real research begins when matching speakers with installation goals. Don't skimp on good installation practices and ask people like matt to figure out how to match speakers for said purpose; i.e. music, burps, SPL stuff...etc.
 
Id buy it one component at a time. start with head unit then replace speakers in car then add amps and subs that way you get quality stuff everytime and your system gets slowly better. just a thought
 


kjohnson said:
Id buy it one component at a time. start with head unit then replace speakers in car then add amps and subs that way you get quality stuff everytime and your system gets slowly better. just a thought
Click to expand...

Or save all your money till you decide what you want to do that way you don't buy something that doesnt suit your needs when you later on figure out what you wanted in the first place. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
as long as wire is copper and 14-18AWG in short distances there will be no difference.

keep runs under 50 feet "easy in a car"

so yea, lamp cord. I buy 14awg on 1000ft spools from an electronics supply house.
 
MrTube said:
as long as wire is copper and 14-18AWG in short distances there will be no difference.

keep runs under 50 feet "easy in a car"

so yea, lamp cord. I buy 14awg on 1000ft spools from an electronics supply house.
Click to expand...

*good game*

If people would actually calculate loads you'll realize that 16awg is probably all you'd need for subwoofer connections and it's more than you need for components. If you want bragging rights or a tougher install then, by all means, buy the biggest and baddest but reality doesn't change due to marketing and snake oil.
 
schroedes said:
lamp wiring from a landfill??? lol, i agree with matt ^, but wiring is important and alot of people skimp on it, best speaker in the world will sound like **** without proper wire
Click to expand...

No.

All wrong.

Copper is copper.

All that matters is the gauge.

Look up your actual loads and see what you actually need then come back and try and claim different.

TurboTrav said:
this is what i would do:
AMP: Visonik V317SX Mono Subwoofer Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix
Sub: Kicker 07CVR124 12" Subwoofers Car Subwoofers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix
box go with a sealed if you want sq
deck: Sony CDX-GT340 (cdxgt340) All In-Dash Car Stereo Receivers Car Stereo Receivers and Head Units Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix
5 gauge wiring for the amp
Click to expand...

If no one can decide on what criteria you should be looking for or how to install it, then why would you even bother suggesting actual products to buy? :rolleyes:
 


Don't get butt hurt Turbo :) That's just matt's way of saying he cares. Everybody has their choices and a different knowledge base instigates selection criteria. In the end, it would probably benefit the op if you could explain your choices. Then we'd probably converse a bit more :D
 
The problem is that is my stock system good? or would i benifit with other speakers?
Click to expand...

That doesnt seem like someone who is asking for SQ but really wants to know what SQ means.

If this thread is going to be helpful to the OP, the OP needs to post here...

Otherwise, we're just bickering amongst ourselves.
 
Thanks you guys for all your answers... i have another question though, what about getting set of subs and an amp off of craigslist they seem to have a ton of em for sale for good prices
 


To tell you the truth, if your gonna get a sub/s, you'll probly want to upgrade the door speakers and rear deck lid speakers to handle the power from a new stereo, and you want them to be clear and crisp, unless you like to roll around and hear just bass and no music. I made that mistake once buy putting all my money into subs and an amp, and keeping the stock speakers, if I turned it up to hear the music with the bass, it sounded like an 80 year old man sh!tting, or I could roll around and only hear the bass, which was annoying as hell. It's up to you, but I would reccomend getting decent speakers and a stereo, then saving up and getting decent subs.
 
Single 12. Sealed box. Around 400-500 watts peak mono block amp.

This is considering you buy a good sub...
some of my favorites are MTX, Hertz, Diamond Audio, and RE.

The box type depends on what music you listen to. If you like big bass and hip-hop, get a ported box. If you like rock/metal and a more theater-like sound, get a sealed box. Stay away from bandpass boxes, no matter how "cool" people think they look.
 
Ummmmmmmm bandpass is the only way to get the bass in the cabin while using a large sub.

In fact, bandpass is the ideal solution for those looking for high clean SPL and not rattling their trunk to death.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top