So heres a question for you guys. So my tranny was rebuilt 2 years ago almost to the day and is now starting to slip again. Granted in asking around now it wasnt the best place to get it done. but here is whats happening. it started a couple weeks ago when the high temp. was about 3 and the tranny would slip once "warm", the kid before me put a 140-150 t stat in it, mainly in 3rd and od and light load (climbing a hill behind someone moving slow 40-50). you could feel it and watch the rpm bounce up a bit but id pop the gas to get it to shift and once above 2k it wouldnt slip. now that the outside temps have risen to normal (25-35) it has stayed the same. ive noticed the tranny only slips once it has warmed up and doesnt do it (or i cant feel it anyway) when its cold. could this be worn out fluid (has roughly 30-35k since rebuild and it was only autoparts plus fliud) or maybe the filter is plugging up? any help would be appreciated. im hoping i dont need another rebuild since im laid off during the winter and pennsylvania felt the need to deny my unemployment bc of new bs laws.
slipping tranny
- Thread starter jakeb157
- Start date
Pan drop, fluid filter change and when refilling add in a bottle of Lucas trans. fluid, then top off with normal fluid. Might limp it along for a bit longer, but slipping when warm is not a good sign of things to come. The RPM bounce in 3rd/OD under a load is the TCC from what I've read. My 00 GT does it to. I just try and stay out of that range for now.
This is info straight from Triple Edge Performances' website:
[h=1]TCC rpm oscillation[/h]
Tach bounces up and down a few hundered rpm while cruising in lockup:
Another common problem / concern of this transmission and more pronounced with added engine power or higher mileage. This generally happens when the valve body has excess wear in the TCC regulated apply valve area but also has other causes. Excessive fluid leakage in this area of the valve body causes TCC apply pressure loss and can lead to uncontrollable TCC operation which causes the engine rpm to bounce up and down a bit. This problem is noticed most after driving a while and speeds between 42 and 70mph and in 4th gear. There are other causes to this problem that can be from a hard and shrunken TCC regulated apply valve end plug o-ring, worn or shrunken teflon seals on the input shaft, a bad o-ring on the input shaft that seals in the torque converter, a faulty torque converter clutch, and even a bad pressure control solenoid. Another common occurance is a worn out sleeve in the channel plate that supports the input shaft. A dirty MAF sensor can also have effect on this condition and should also be inspected. In the service field it has been found on occasion that a complete PCM/TCM reflash can also address this problem, though I have found that even if this helps the problem can come back in a short matter of time. Code P0741 may be found in the pcm memory as a stored code and is described as Torque Converter Clutch Stuck Off. When this happens adaptives shifts are disabled, TCC operation is disabled, and 4th gear can be disabled. Generally a new or reman / repaired valve body will correct this condition and a new EPC solenoid is always suggested as well. The TCC/PWM solenoid is rarely ever at fault for this condition but is also a good idea to replace if you are reparing the transmission. Again the valve body is the common cure BUT not always the culprit and certainly not the whole problem after this has been happening for a while. Any time a torque converter fails there will be debris going back into the trans. There is a pressure relief valve in the channel plate that will collect debris from a bad torque converter and reduce cooler flow, cause trans to run hot, and greatly effect TCC operation and can destroy a new converter in a matter of miles if this isnt carefully inspected or upgraded. The best way to verify proper operation as commanded by the pcm is with a scan tool by viewing TCC slippage rpm, TCC duty cycle, EPC data, and checking any codes and making sure the engine is running properly and a misfire is not a false sense of a torque converter problem or shudder.
This is info straight from Triple Edge Performances' website:
[h=1]TCC rpm oscillation[/h]
Tach bounces up and down a few hundered rpm while cruising in lockup:
Another common problem / concern of this transmission and more pronounced with added engine power or higher mileage. This generally happens when the valve body has excess wear in the TCC regulated apply valve area but also has other causes. Excessive fluid leakage in this area of the valve body causes TCC apply pressure loss and can lead to uncontrollable TCC operation which causes the engine rpm to bounce up and down a bit. This problem is noticed most after driving a while and speeds between 42 and 70mph and in 4th gear. There are other causes to this problem that can be from a hard and shrunken TCC regulated apply valve end plug o-ring, worn or shrunken teflon seals on the input shaft, a bad o-ring on the input shaft that seals in the torque converter, a faulty torque converter clutch, and even a bad pressure control solenoid. Another common occurance is a worn out sleeve in the channel plate that supports the input shaft. A dirty MAF sensor can also have effect on this condition and should also be inspected. In the service field it has been found on occasion that a complete PCM/TCM reflash can also address this problem, though I have found that even if this helps the problem can come back in a short matter of time. Code P0741 may be found in the pcm memory as a stored code and is described as Torque Converter Clutch Stuck Off. When this happens adaptives shifts are disabled, TCC operation is disabled, and 4th gear can be disabled. Generally a new or reman / repaired valve body will correct this condition and a new EPC solenoid is always suggested as well. The TCC/PWM solenoid is rarely ever at fault for this condition but is also a good idea to replace if you are reparing the transmission. Again the valve body is the common cure BUT not always the culprit and certainly not the whole problem after this has been happening for a while. Any time a torque converter fails there will be debris going back into the trans. There is a pressure relief valve in the channel plate that will collect debris from a bad torque converter and reduce cooler flow, cause trans to run hot, and greatly effect TCC operation and can destroy a new converter in a matter of miles if this isnt carefully inspected or upgraded. The best way to verify proper operation as commanded by the pcm is with a scan tool by viewing TCC slippage rpm, TCC duty cycle, EPC data, and checking any codes and making sure the engine is running properly and a misfire is not a false sense of a torque converter problem or shudder.
thanks fordman, so basically if i pull the valve body off can i replace those parts in there? or do i have to dig farther into the trans. gettin it by for a couple months would be great but if im going to dump like 500 bucks into it to make it last another 3 or 4 months then id just use whatever tax money i get to buy a new trans. also a few months ago, also after having a problem shortly after the rebuild, i put a scan tool to the car and it did come back with a stored code. i dont remember the exact code but it saidthe torque converter clutch stuck open. but made no sense to me and the shop said it would cause the car to stall but it never did. also randomly i would get hard shifts when warm but if i pulled over, shut the car off and sat for a couple minutes it would go away. that was very random like maybe once a month. could this be related? could this be that tcc solenoid sticking?
02NavyBlue
New member
Try to get the code, if it was a tcc solenoid code it's just the solenoid that has to be replaced. Also the shifts being hard when warm is max adapt, usually caused by the PCS going bad causing slow shifts, computer recognizes that and commands full pressure. That solenoid is right near the tcc solenoid.
Fluid change and new filter made it worse. Fluid was burnt but it only had roughly 30k on it. Also noticed the pan had no magnets in it. A local tranny guy said not to worry about magnets as he doesnt like magnets in those pans. Also I forgot to mention that above 4000rpm till it actually shifts the car bucks real hatd. At first I thought misfire bc I have msd coilpacks (year old) and a couple plug wires that the boots ripped on but have been that way for awhile and dont show signs of arching. But that high rpm buck started shortly before the low rpm load problem previously mentioned
