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Should i get a pcm tune for a 3.5 pulley drop?

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okesongtp

okesongtp

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Should i get a reprogrammed PCM if i want to add a 3.5" SC Pulley?
I bought the pulley and belt already I just need to know if i should reprogram my PCM before add it to my SC or if I can just slap it on now. Any thoughts?
Current mods - NGK TR6 copper cold Plugs, Cold air Intake, Throttle Body Spacer, U-Bend removal, wrapped crossover pipe, 2.5" Downpipe, 180 degree T-Stat, and Oil Breather cap
 


2.5" downpipe? LOL sell that and get some speed daddy headers or at LEAST a 3" pipe and a plog.

But SD's are cheaper.

In other words.... I doubt you're flowing well enough to drop to a 3.5" pulley.

And those TR6's are way too cold.

Put TR5's or TR55's in there.

And the breather is doing nothing but giving you a vacuum leak.

And U bend is with the downpipe, you have one or the other.

the TB space is only useful for spraying meth.

Now i wanna see your intake....

But that 180* T-stat isn't doing anything for you either. Just hurting your fuel economy.
 
Wow this forum sucks ****** dick! every single time i read posts or make a thread some dick****er thinks they're so much better and smarter than everyone else!! I ask a simple question and want a simple answr! I dont give a **** about your opinions on my mods or what your think sucks or not:

1) a 2.5" downpipe is not the best i know but its still a hell of a lot better than the 2.09 stock one! it was available localy for cheep so i figured it would save me money from ordering online and playing for shipping
2) TR6 plugs are the same degree as the Autolight 104's which are recommended for supercharger applications
3)The breather keeps my oil cooler and lets air into the crankcase. (ZZP wouldn't sell it if it only made a vacuum leak)
4)You couldn't be more wrong about the ubend only being part of the downpipe! I put the straight pipe inplace of the ubend myself and welded it in place. The Downpipe is a shorty so its not long enough to include the ubend!
5)Yeah I realize the Throttle body spacer does nothing performance wise, it simply keeps the throttle body away from the SC and keeps is cooler.
6)My intake is fine
7)the T-stat helps KR and i dont give a **** about economy
 
See now... the rude awakening is that the answer to your question is that no, you CAN"T get a tuned PCM since they're all built for 3.4 pulley setups which you do not have, nor can you run one.

So the short answer is no.

The long one is, you need to re-think your mods else you're going to be pissing away gas and making no power from any of it.

I'm trying to help you make more power and i'm a dick.

I love you bro, you're wasting money and i'm telling you why and you dont like it so i'm the dick. Thats just fine and dandy, notice how many posts you see in this thread beside ours.

Thats a sign of whos being a dick, everyone else since they dont want to touch the subject because they dont want to deal with YOUR idiocy.

Note mods: its the mods that are idiotic, not the person no matter how directly related they may be. :)

P.S. I wont refute your points since you wont listen to me anyways since i'm a dick apparently.
 
I put a 3.5 pulley on my 99GTP my only mods were, a ubend delete and autolite 104 plugs with it has been working great. I make 10psi of boost. My only problem was a misfire "my plug wires were had a bad connection at the coils.
 
Your case neither provides any solid evidence of making more power nor doing it safely.

So its pretty irrelevant.
 


No dont tell him nor show him pictures of what happens, I wanna see HIS pictures of what happens.

And yes, NOW i'm being a dick about it. :D
 
shelf tune = 3.4 setup

just slightly more agressive which means more fuel which means more likely to clog your cat.

So op... do you have a little thing that goes meow in your downpipe?
 


i have a buddy that has what you have and runs a 3.5 with no knock.. granted we live in canada so its a tad cooler and we both use 94oct gas.. as far as 180 stat gos.. for me no change for mileage, 30mpg on the highway.. ps if you do get a tune dont get the zzp tune it sucks ass
 
I recently added a set of speed daddy headers. My car runs way better now than with the 3" down pipe with the ubend delete. I also put a K&N filter in my airbox with a 3.5" hole in the side of the air box an then put in a 2' section of 3.5" black drain pipe from the fender well. The air box mod worked great it ran the same 1/4mi time headlight in or out. It is a lot quieter than a cold air intake.
 
Or GTP said:
I recently added a set of speed daddy headers. My car runs way better now than with the 3" down pipe with the ubend delete. I also put a K&N filter in my airbox with a 3.5" hole in the side of the air box an then put in a 2' section of 3.5" black drain pipe from the fender well. The air box mod worked great it ran the same 1/4mi time headlight in or out. It is a lot quieter than a cold air intake.
Click to expand...

def. not what were talking about but ok
 
Maybe read my safely modding thread like I had already told you to.

The difference between a 3.4" and a 3.5" aren't much...but were gonna go to school kiddo. Read the blue.

1) a 2.5" downpipe is not the best i know but its still a hell of a lot better than the 2.09 stock one! it was available localy for cheep so i figured it would save me money from ordering online and playing for shipping

2.5" is just as bad a stock ass DP. 3" or nothing. If you care about your car then you'll go 3". If you don't...then well...that's your call.

2) TR6 plugs are the same degree as the Autolight 104's which are recommended for supercharger applications

Ummm, no. They aren't. NGK TR6's are the plug that sits inbetween Autolite's race application 103's (for 3.0" and lower pulley setups) and Autolite 104's (which are the best recommended spark plug for your application gapped at .055"...TR6's are for common 3.25" setups. And you can't just run a super cold plug and expect it to kill KR...it'll hurt you...MPG's will ACTUALLY suffer and you'll get worse performance because you want the hottest spark you can get away with...not the coldest.

3)The breather keeps my oil cooler and lets air into the crankcase. (ZZP wouldn't sell it if it only made a vacuum leak)

So...your telling me...since ZZP says its ok and they sell it its made for your car you can just toss it on? Not really. Ever bought one of those "Make a Million Bucks in a week" books off of TV? Pretty much the same deal. If you take off your oil cap and it damn near sucks your hand down to the Valve Cover and you can't remove your hand easily from the suction...then you need a breather...and probably have too much crankcase vacuum. As for a stock car...or barely bolted on...put on a stock oil cap.

4)You couldn't be more wrong about the ubend only being part of the downpipe! I put the straight pipe inplace of the ubend myself and welded it in place. The Downpipe is a shorty so its not long enough to include the ubend!

So...I give you 1 point because I see where your coming from and Matt's from Canada so sometimes he sees sh1t bass ackwards.

5)Yeah I realize the Throttle body spacer does nothing performance wise, it simply keeps the throttle body away from the SC and keeps is cooler.

AND...it blocks coolant flow to the hear head and makes hot spots which PROBABLY are actually causing you KR. So...by dropping the temp of the S/C what...20* TOPS and increasing the temp of the rear head by at LEAST 20*...your hurting more than helping. So you lose the point you gained earlier trying to school someone who is trying to help you. You don't like it that we don't sugar coat sh1t? Sorry dude...were trying to save your motor, not your feelings.

6)My intake is fine

If your going to a 3.4" setup...go open cone. Whatever kind of BS CAI you have...ditch it for an Open Cone. Your welcome.

7)the T-stat helps KR and i dont give a **** about economy

And actually...your wrong again unless it is tuned. A colder T-Stat does NOTHING for your temps unless your cruising on the highway. It comes into play when you get a tune because of fan turn on degree points. And sure, it helps cool the motor a little but not enough to actually KILL KR...your KR killing is in your flow mods (I.E. BIGGER DOWNPIPE, and or HEADERS, and or a FRONT PLOG., Ported Blower Case/Ported TB)

Sure, I'm a dick. I don't care what you think. You just need to realize that there is always someone that has a faster car and someone that knows more than you do. And if you can't take other people's opinions...then boy...internet automotive forums are NOT FOR YOU. Feel free to take the knowledge I did leave you with to heart...and listen to people for once. Just saying.
 


Wow only 10 posts in and he's already calling people Dicks. Honestly i didn't think he was being but just pointing out his flaws in modding \ giving opinions on how to improve. Ever heard of constructive criticism or do they not teach that up in Maine.
 
Ok I get where everyone is coming from with there inputs and I will say thank you for trying to help. However, I'm on a VERY tight budget and i'm taking the cheapest route possible. And I'm not trying to build a 10 second car I just want the basic mods that put me in the 13's or 12's
 
Your tight budget is gonna lead you to not having a motor..

Don't skimp on performance parts that are mandatory to keeping the engine safe while modding. No such thing as 'cheap' performance. You wanna go fast? Save up the money and do it the right way.
 
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