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Shifts are pretty hard...

Tengis

Tengis

New member
Harder then when the tranny was put in for sure. Recently changed to Dex VI fluid but it was shifting hard before that anyway. Tim King built the tranny (Ive been told he is good). The shift kit is "medium" and it was a noticable difference over my stock transmission for sure... but now it almost feels "violent". I went through and custom tuned my tranny settings to my liking but it never shifted this hard until now... could anyone look at my PCM BIN? Tranny parts list:

3.69 gear set kit with bolt on reluctor wheel
7/8 chain
shift kit
ratcheting pawl sprag
input shaft
hardened 4th clutch shaft
new pistons, seals, gaskets
updated raybestos clutches
improved boost sleeve
new sensors
new filter

I really want to get a refresh with a GM 1" chain installed but I dont trust anyone local to do the work.
 


IS it shifiting HARD with normal driving.
I know the regal and gtp did this when the clutch packs where started to wear out
 
There was a lot of clutch material in my tranny fluid when I changed it out so I wouldnt doubt it ;). Yes, it shifts hard with normal driving.
 
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Have you scanned for codes or watched PCS commanded current/amps? Most all codes set for the trans will put the trans in default-max line pressure and make very rough part throttle shifts. If PCS current is constantly around .1 amp then there is a code or a problem as it should very between .1 and 1 amp, normally around .8 with low load on it.
 
My PCM isnt throwing any codes that I can pick up with my Powertuner. I will scan for PCS commanded current and report back!
 


Good thing my work isnt far away... but my tranny temps rose steadily today and got pretty damn hot. Ugh... check out my ClubGP post and let me know what you think.
 
No luck on dhp PT tips yet I take it? Sorry I couldnt find much of anything usefull for you since HPT guys have different numbers to play with.
 
I think I found what I needed... did you read my clubgp thread?

My main question: As far as the reluctor wheels go... is my car now seeing my gearing as completely stock? The "bolt on" reluctor wheel is exactly the same as a stock one except that its bolted on rather then with rivets?

With the 30 tooth wheel on the diff and the bolt on reluctor wheel, can I tune my gearing in the PCM without worrying about that reluctor wheel? I thought it had a different tooth count or something so I didnt know how I would compensate for just the one on the diff being stock.

Does that make any sense? Let me know.
 


I havent seen your thread on cgp as I am banned and my IP is blocked, though if I need to get on and look I can its really not a big deal :th_mischievious: . The Bolt-on reluctor wheel you are mentioning is the input reluctor and IS a stock wheel but the rivets are removed and is bolted in place instead of freely floating on rivets that are common to come lose. This will have no effect on input speed signal with either one as again they are the same wheel. Your reluctor ring on the diff is your problem, you put a stock 30 tooth ring on your newer diff back into the car and the pcm is setup for a 38 tooth ring which is why your current gear ratio is reading wrong. The pcm doesnt see the output speed matching properly with the input speed as programmed in the pcm to accept and is throwing your code. You dont mention to have near the parameters to change in the tune as HPT guys do so I dont have an answer for what exactly you need to change, but your vss pulses per revolution need to read higher. Your ratio change from stock is roughly 1.26 x the original speed and that is why you are seeing your 3rd gear ratio on the scanner as 1.25. The pcm needs to see more pulses per revolution on the output speed sensor to correctly match what the 38 tooth ring was doing since with that you had 38 pulses per revolution where now you only have 30, so it sees that is not enough output speed compared to current commanded gear and input speed signal.
 
My PCM was NEVER changed for the 38 tooth wheel. I was told when I got the tranny that the 38 tooth wheel "spoofs" stock gearing, but MPH comes out way wrong which is why the speedo calibrator is needed.

With the 30 tooth wheel I can go in and edit for gearing as if I never had anything spoofing... which is exactly what I needed to know. I should be able to get it fixed up nicely now. =D

I CAN change the stuff needed for the gearing, I was just thinking there was a table missing since I thought I was suppose to be able to edit something that I dont think even exists. I was confused... =O.

Ill report back and let you know. Im going to fix it at lunch time (hopefully).
 
When I changed gearing, I changed the wheel on the diff. for the VSS sensor to read and called it good so I didn't have to tune around for it and take chances.

~F~
 
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