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S/c oil substitute?

mngtp

mngtp

New member
I'm wondering if I can get away with using an engine oil like 5w30 in place of the s/c oil just for a little while? I know the coupler is bad for sure, it sounds like marbles. The s/c oil is way over due to be changed and it's pretty low.
I have searched. I have found some people saying they saw something from GM saying something like 5w30 was OK. Some say it's OK while others say no way.
I'm having a hard time finding the s/c oil at local dealerships. I know I can get it online.
Just wondering if this is an option for a short period of time. And just change it every 3,000 miles with the engine oil. Or is the s/c oil is the absolute only option.

Thanks in advance.
 


Ford guys run full synthetic in their eatons all the time. I also read that gm said mobil one can be used as well.
 
Why not just use what it calls for ? IF it's overdue anyways , whats a few more days until you can get to the dealer or order some online ?
 
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS.../FAQ/index.htm

“Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage.”

“Q: I’ve decided I need to change the oil in my supercharger. How do I do this?
A: If you do want to change the oil there is one fill/drain plug on the front face of the front cover. It will probably be an Allen type plug. You will have to suction out the oil using a syringe or other method before replacing with new oil. Fill levels are dependent on application. For aftermarket units, please consult the aftermarket partner company that produced that specific kit. For OEM units, please see the list below or email. New oil can be obtained from any GM or Ford service parts facility, or from one of the Eaton aftermarket supercharger partner companies or remanufacturers. Please make sure you do NOT use any other type of oil, including synthetic motor oils. These will cause failure.”
 
next time you change your engine oil refill it with trans fluid.

it'll work and lubricate it...but your not gonna get a long life out of it.

use the proper oil.

pull the SC belt off and drive it NA for a bit till you can get the oil/coupler
 


Ive used a Lucas brand before from Oreillys because I had a leak and had to order mine too... then when it came in I had little time to change it so ended up leaving it for like 6 months no issues.
 
ive had to completely rebuild a whipple after someone used mobile 1 oil in the gearbox since he was cheap and he "read it online somewhere"

saving $ never really saves you $
 
Lol... GP owners can be tight... You don't want to maintain it properly, get an NA engine! Trying to save $3 is just ridiculous!

Pay to Play...
 


From SVTperformance.com.

The reason Eaton recommends NOT using a conventional or synthetic oil in the blowers is because the GM/Ford/ Eaton supercharger "oil" is a glycol based high temp lube. Look at the MSDS sheet. It is a PAG oil.

Glycol based oils/lubes are generally not compatible or misible with hydrocarbon oils. They do not mix.
Residual amounts of the original fluid can be a problem if they are not completely cleaned/flushed out first before using a hydrocarbon based oil.

http://www.dow.com/ucon/osp/pdf/L104...be_Tech_v2.PDF

If you have the snout off and can clean it out well with brake clean or something else that will leave no residue you should be ok.

Assuming you have selected an appropriate high performance high temperature synthetic oil replacement, that is also the correct viscosity for the application's rpm.

You can also do a simple drain and fill if you do it twice, this will get most of the PAG glycol based lube out.



Another choice from theblowershop.com 75W-90....a whole stinkin quart for $18....plus too much for shipping

http://www.theblowershop.com/store/synthetic-blower-oil-1-quart-p-639.html
 
quite a difference in blower shaft/gear speeds with how fast people overdrive the m90

i dont see any reason not to use the proper oil. in this case with low fluid and needing a coupler...its quite a bit easier to yank the belt and wait for the parts kit to yank the snout and drop in new fluid.
 
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Nye 605 - GM12345982 - Ford.... - Eaton
Read there first sentence. Made for powered metal parts and gears!

It's not changed very often, you can get it online.

I'm sure Eaton never said use Mobile 1
 


after 6k of no problems with GM gear oil it only took 1100 miles with mobil synth for the lysholm/whipple to shred its bearings and lockup the rotors due to excessive bearing play. and this was with a 3" on a 2300ax

he saved 30$ and a week of shipping time to spend 180$ on two new bearings and machining the rotor plate for the larger bearings. and a bit of grinding to remove the alum debris stuck to the case/rotors.

id say saving the 30$ cost him at least 500$ and whatever value is lost when your screw rotors look like ****.

i shudder at the thoughts of an m90 with a 2.6" pulley spinning at nearly 20k with engine oil.

might as well fill yer engine with PS fluid and run it to 8k.

i despise the proliferation of bad data. maybe you can get away with it on a 3.8" pulley, or maybe slamming your dick in a car door is pleasurable.
 
In the 25 years I'm aware of Eaton has been using the same oil. This oil makes 100,000 miles in eaton M90 supercharges.

We are discussing that there are better or cheaper oils then the GM $10 per bottle. At 100,000 miles change the oil and coupler and run it for another 100,000 miles.
 
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