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Removing motor with no heads on it ....

Meemperor

New member
Well... I took the heads off and put them on my new motor.... but I'm an idiot because now I realize it may have been easier if the heads were on the car...

anyone pull just the block before ? I tried to buy some eyebolts that fit the head but the local nuts and bolts store doesn't have them in the right thread :(

Oh well I'll figure it out, just wanted some suggestions tonight after I did it tomorrow.
 


It shouldn't be that heavy without heads, just have a buddie help you and pull it :th_winking::D






Or, you could try to hook around the webbing between the waterjacket passages... or maybe where the starter mount holes in and somewhere sturdy on the other side
 
Me and a couple buddies curled a whole 5.7L out of a Sierra that threw a rod. If three of us could get that, two should be able to pull the 3800's short block.
 
You know, I came SOOOOOO close to pulling my heads off in the car and I caught that little catch 22 there. I realized that if I did, I would have no point in which to lift out the engine.

If you can tell me what size eyelet you need, threads, length and so on I'll go see if I can find some locally and I'll send them to ya free of charge.
 
Turbocharged304sbc would know, send him a PM, he has pulled more of these motors than most of us have ever even seen :)
 
just use old head bolts, stack washers, and put that bolt through a chain, works great, it's how I put my motor back in while I was waiting for heads
 


Use a couple of the old head bolts ran through a chain. They will hold the weight of the engine. Be sure though, to thread them all the way in so that you can use as much of the threads as possible, and not pull the threads in the block.
 
I was thinking of using the old head bolts but was kind of worried it was a bad idea, but screw it, I'll try it tomorrow ! Thanks guys.
 
make sure they are threaded in as far as possible, and stack washers so there is no open space for the bolt to move space to move=bent or broken bolt, so stack washers thread it deeps and make it tight, you "should" fine
 
Using the "outer" head bolts is a good idea also, they're shorter, and you'd just need one washer to shim up the top of the chain to the head of the bolt.
 
Worked like a charm.

Used the shorter headbolts, and a washer. The chain I used is actually pretty big so I was able to tighten them down to the chain and it worked perfectly:)
 


I dunno if that picture in your sig is of work you done, if so, I would surely like some info on how you got it done so clean, particularly the pistons. I would have been afraid to touch those.
 
You suck. You're supposed to tell me you spent hours cleaning them and then share all the tricks and tools you used :-)

How about this :

Step 1: Go to cost +10% dealership through OQCGP.

Step 2: Order pistons

Step 3: order L32 rods, bearings, etc... from the interweb

Step 4: assemble. (See W body servie manual)
 


Pistons and L32 rods and clevite bearings (cam, crank and rod) are all on the list to get. I am interested in getting a W body service manual. Where might I find one of these and I assume it goes into detail about tearing down and reassembling the engine.
 
Pistons and L32 rods and clevite bearings (cam, crank and rod) are all on the list to get. I am interested in getting a W body service manual. Where might I find one of these and I assume it goes into detail about tearing down and reassembling the engine.

Yea. The dealership version. I got mine of E-bay for $60. It's 3 books, lots of illistration etc.

I also have access to the GM tech website so... :th_biggrin2:
 
Yea. The dealership version. I got mine of E-bay for $60. It's 3 books, lots of illistration etc.

I also have access to the GM tech website so... :th_biggrin2:

Or you could get your hands on the digital version, the GM Techline SI manual. ;)

Mine covers all GM vehicles 1980-2005. Quite the wealth of info.
 
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