• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Removing bolts to replace wheel hub bearings

factory

New member
I bought some Timken wheel hub replacements for my front end.

I'm having a hell of a time getting the 3 bolts out for the replacement. Any tips on what has worked? Tried heat, breaker bar and the usual suspects. The bolts are just in a tough spot...can't get my electric impact wrench on them. Thinking about using a chisel and hammer but it's going to be tough to get that in there as well.
 


Either soak them in pb blaster or some liquid wrench for a bit

Edit : also try turning the wheel a bit may give you some more room
 
I've just used MAP gas then a 6 point socket, sometime you need a swivel socket. Helps to turn the hub all the way to towards the right to gain more room.
 
I've always thought they were fairly easy to get at....For the top one, sometimes the CV shaft boot gets in the way depending on if its the original axle or a replacement. I assume you've already got the rotor off, if not take it off and you can get at the other side of the bolt with PB blaster, its a through hole so you can see the other side of the bolt with the rotor off. Use a deep well socket with a 6" extension and it shouldn't really be an issue. Best of luck!
 
Either a deep or shallow with an extension to get past the CV and they aren't usually too bad. If you can't get them that way, pop the balljoint, pull the axle out of the knuckle and you have a clear shot at them.

BTW a 1/2" actually fits those bolts better than a 13mm.
 


I just replaced mine not too long ago and I found that turning the steering wheel all the way to one side made it easier to get to. Also, using a shallow socket with an extension and swivel joint really helped me out for the top one.
 
I have done several of these bearings. An impact makes it super easy. But like said above turn the wheel for easier access. Use a 6 point 13mm socket (very important) with a floppy extension. For the top bolt place a jack under the control arm and jack it up. Makes for much more room to get to that bolt. I never had to use heat or penetrant oil even when using a ratchet. These bolts are torqued to 118 ft/lbs so they are quite tight.

Don
 
I had zero issues getting to mine. A quick smack of the rather with my hand and it broke the bolts free.
 
6 point 1/2 inch drive with a 2 inch extension on a breaker bust the loose all the time. It clears the cv boot for the top as well. Turn wheel to left, get top one and lower one, turn wheel to right, get the other lower one. I have done over 10 from rusty 97s to 07. Pb on the threads help as well.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top