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rear brakes

ray03gtp

New member
Just wondering in a scheme to save money, has anyone tried to use stock front calipers and rotors for rear brakes? I know you'll have to disable the e brake cause it won't work. I was thinking of upgrading to f body brakes for the front and if I could run my front brakes as rears. Any input?

-Ray
 


unless you plan on lowering the car, moving weight to the back and having a much stiffer suspension its just a bad idea in terms of brake balance.
 
the size of the piston determines the force.

two smaller pistons lets you run a larger pad.

You'd want to maintain the brake bias.
 
For your state....disconnecting the e-brake will cause this

My Anti-lock brake light is on, am I going to fail inspection?
No, anti-lock brakes are not part of the state inspection. However, if the brake light is on, indicating a failure in the hydraulic braking system, you will be failed. This indicates a serious condition which must be checked immediately. The anti-lock brake light indicates a problem with that specific feature of your braking system. We do, however, suggest you have the brakes checked as soon as possible.
 


Yeah that sucks lol, if the ebrake could be ran to the caliper that would be nice. But I cant with these. Oh well was a good thought.

In an other question, Do I really need a F-body front brake upgrade or can i use the standard 12 inch upgrade that uses stock calipers? How big are the rear rotors?
 
meh, larger rotors and pads mean higher thermal capacity.

The ratio between your master cylinder and your caliper pistons determine brake force.

Caliper rigidity also effects how efficiently the force is transferred.

But pad composition plays a large part as well.

Before ALL of that is what you have for traction.

namely your tires.
 


most people dont even bleed their brakes regularly lol.

Just run DOT 4 and you should be okay if you're flushing it every two years.

The last place the heat should be is in the brake fluid.

DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F)

Steet pads are generally good for up to 750-800 IIRC.

brakepadscrop.jpg


Hmm....
 
fluid really doesn't get that hot.

Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) 190 °C (374 °F)

If it does, it boils over and you need new fluid immediately.

Only happens in racing or similarly aggressive driving.

+1 for the rear GXP upgrade.

Question is, can you fit it under 16's.
 


Gxp brakes will fit but there 600 beans

Ray, actually they can be found cheaper. I brought brand new calipers and brackets for $175 shipped. The rotors I bought from R1 Concepts, drilled and slotted for $175 also. So for the full setup I have $350 total into it (minus the lines and pads).

You may have to do some creative searching to find a pair new or it's easier to find used, but 600 is way over what is needed to be spent.
 
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