• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Race Parts for sale

M

mikergp

New member
How bout a Brand new Short Block. Never been run? I believe is from the 98 GTP Model Year. Story was It was a new left over from 98 they sold them as scrap instead of retesting them for emissions. They knocked a hole in the valve cover and sold them to a transmission shop near Chicago who tore them down to just a short block and sold all the parts separate. I bought one of the short blocks from them in 99 and still have it on my shelf all wrapped up in oil and STP soaked cloth. I looked at it yesterday and it's like new :)
Buyer pickup only 600.00 for the NEW short block

SOLD Thrasher Cam

SOLD CNC ported heads

SOLD set of heads I ported back in the early 2000's (They worked quit well :) )

SOLD Thrasher Transmission

If you remember back that far my car was named "The Pit Bull"and i was running 12.1's with the cam and CNC head setup.

All Parts are in Rockford, Il 61109 I will ship UPS Ground for actual cost, Except the short block must be picked up only
Mike Dye
mikergp
 
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12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.
 


I started to get pics yesterday pulled musle in my back I will try and get them out today

Thanks everyone
mikergp
 
SgtMarshal said:
do you have a build sheet on that thrasher transmission?
Click to expand...

No Build sheet but it's loaded :) I built this trans just for me. It is a 3.29 Single chain final drive, not best but better output shaft, extra clutch plates in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, modded valve body and blocked accumulators, spring loaded limited slip diff. It was the trans I was running 12.1's with on 12" slicks on the front and never had any problems with it.

The scoop on the CNC Heads is They were prototype's for a run of them that never happened :(, Manley Oversized valves, hardened seats, Comp cams springs , shortened valve seals for larger lift cams. Scalloped Intake walls for better fuel mixture. I put these heads on as the only change and went from 12.4's to 12.1's. :)

I was finally able to get out of bed this morning so Pics are coming very soon I HOPE.

Thanks for all the patience
 


SOLD The scoop on the CNC Heads is They were prototype's for a run of them that never happened :(, Manley Oversized valves, hardened seats, Comp cams springs , shortened valve seals for larger lift cams. Scalloped Intake walls for better fuel mixture. I put these heads on as the only change and went from 12.4's to 12.1's. :)

I was finally able to get out of bed this morning so Pics are coming very soon I HOPE.

Thanks for all the patience[/QUOTE]

CNC Head PICS Hope they are good enough to show everything:
 

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SOLD The Whole Story on the cam:

Thrasher worked with the guy in CA that was building a New Bonneville to race on the salt flats. They spent about 2 weeks on an engine Dyno trying different grinds for a cam. This was the choice they made and the Bonney Set an all time speed record for the fastest FWD Production car ever :)

Thrasher had 20 of them made in Chicago and I went a picked them up the week before GPG in KC. I picked them up on Thurs. and put one in my car on Fri Left Sat morning for KC and got the best gas mileage I had gotten up till that point :) That year at GPG I ran the first ever 12 second run at the drag strip by a GTP. Also it was that year my car was named the "Pit Bull". This is that cam. Of course Thrasher tuned my car after I got to KC and before I ran.
 

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mikergp said:
No Build sheet but it's loaded :) I built this trans just for me. It is a 3.29 Single chain final drive, not best but better output shaft, extra clutch plates in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, modded valve body and blocked accumulators, spring loaded limited slip diff. It was the trans I was running 12.1's with on 12" slicks on the front and never had any problems with it.

The scoop on the CNC Heads is They were prototype's for a run of them that never happened :(, Manley Oversized valves, hardened seats, Comp cams springs , shortened valve seals for larger lift cams. Scalloped Intake walls for better fuel mixture. I put these heads on as the only change and went from 12.4's to 12.1's. :)

I was finally able to get out of bed this morning so Pics are coming very soon I HOPE.

Thanks for all the patience
Click to expand...

does it come with a torque converter? what year was the transmission built for? do you know what size input shaft it has? Do you still have the bin for the different transmission settings
 
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My car was a 1997. Yes is has a high stall don't remember the numbers TC It's a smaller in Diameter than stock as well. Worked very well on the launch with the 3.29 gear.
 


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