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question about oil for 2002 GTP

Dustoff

Dustoff

New member
so another question...

the guy I bought my GTP off has been running

-mobil 1 5w30 100% synthetic motor oil with lucas oil synthetic oil stabilizer.
- royal purple supercharger oil
- synthetic ATF with lucas synthetic ATF stabilizer
- dexcool glycol rad fluid

is this a good choice for my car? should I change anything?

Thanks
 


I would get rid of the dex cool, personal choice. People say your car won't run right by changing it out, I've never had a problem. Its very corrosive, i use good old green fluid. Again personal choice, as long as it's been flushed every few years you should be fine.

Sent from my LG-L38C using Tapatalk 2
 
Best oil in my opinion is Castrol GTX. The majority of oil changes on my Bonneville SSEI (since sold) were GTX and she's still cranking at 356k miles.. Was pretty clean last time the valve covers were off.
 


Switched both my 95 Bonne and 00 GP GT to regular green coolant. I change it on a regular basis so no issues so far. As long as your LIM gaskets have been changed it should work fine.

I run regular old Valvoline in both, and Wix filters. Never will a Fram touch anything that requires an oil filter. 214K on the Bonne and 314K on the GP GT.
 
Looks like I'll be making the switch to green. Thanks for the input everyone.
preasure flush necessary? Or should I just flush it myself?
 
Don't use the lucas it makes your 5w30 into 10w40 at least, matter of fact don't use anything lucas if you care about your car.All you need is 5w30 in these engines.I watched one of my friends that calls himself a technician put lucas trans additive in his truck.It took about 15 mins to get it in and there was probably a couple ounces in the bottle when he threw it away lol.I just stood back smh.
 


amazed at the thin oil you guys use over there in the states... I know the weather is a lot colder than here in Aus... but a 30 weight oil seems excessively thin and just causes more unnecessary wear.

Most people run 15w40 semi synthetic or 5w50 mobil1 here. My performance shop even goes up to 10w70 (although i think thats a bit too thick lol)

Ive been using mobil1 5w50 and oil pressure is spot on 55psi at idle and around 60 with revs
 
slick2500 said:
Oil is oil as long as you keep up on oil changes and use the same stuff every time you should be fine.
Click to expand...

This.. I'm not brand leghumper, I grab whatever syn is on sale at the time.


Green coolant is what I run, can't stand the gunk that Dexcool brings.
 
Schwuppes said:
amazed at the thin oil you guys use over there in the states... I know the weather is a lot colder than here in Aus... but a 30 weight oil seems excessively thin and just causes more unnecessary wear.

Most people run 15w40 semi synthetic or 5w50 mobil1 here. My performance shop even goes up to 10w70 (although i think thats a bit too thick lol)

Ive been using mobil1 5w50 and oil pressure is spot on 55psi at idle and around 60 with revs
Click to expand...


You crazy upside down people lol.

15w40 is what we run in a semi or a standard diesel truck haha.

If I lived in a warm place all year round, I'd gladly run a heavier weight oil and not care at all but being that I see temps well below 0º F in the winter I stick with 5w30. Though we do run a 20w50 FULL SYN in older muscle cars.
 
I've switched all 3 of my GP's to regular green. Just flush yourself if everything looks alright (check for chunks in the overflow bottle, and check the radiator neck) if you see chunks or sludge, I'd get it flushed at a shop.

I run 5w30 full synthetic, in whatever I can get for the cheapest, with a quality filter. (usually K&N or Mobil 1)

Oil is oil. Only differences are in the additive packages.

As far as the royal purple S/C oil, I can't comment cause I've honestly never known they made one. Most people just use GM S/C oil.

Trans fluid, I run Dex IV or Dex VI.
 


The whole thick oil deal is the old way of thinking period.All the newer cars use 5w20 and 0w20 for a reason.GM has back spec'd a lot of thinner oil to be used in cars that once required 10w30 and higher, they obviously know something.Older L67's say 10w30 but the newer ones 5w30 for the same engine.My L36 has 200,000 and has a hair under 40psi in gear with 5w30 at full operating temp.
 
0w is great for most vehicles during cold startup, gets the oil flowing. Doesn't actually effect the hot viscosity.

20 is great for gas mileage and frees up some HP! It does reduce the engines life a little! Heard race teams run thin oil during qualifying.

Synthetic has better viscous numbers when it gets really cold! Such as below 0 f.
 
slick2500 said:
Oil is oil as long as you keep up on oil changes and use the same stuff every time you should be fine.
Click to expand...

machinegunsquid said:
I've switched all 3 of my GP's to regular green. Just flush yourself if everything looks alright (check for chunks in the overflow bottle, and check the radiator neck) if you see chunks or sludge, I'd get it flushed at a shop.

I run 5w30 full synthetic, in whatever I can get for the cheapest, with a quality filter. (usually K&N or Mobil 1)

Oil is oil. Only differences are in the additive packages.

As far as the royal purple S/C oil, I can't comment cause I've honestly never known they made one. Most people just use GM S/C oil.

Trans fluid, I run Dex IV or Dex VI.
Click to expand...

What these two guys said. Oil is oil no matter what brand, it's just the additive packages that change slightly and ware out. As long as it replaced regularly, Don't worry about the oil brand too much.

When it comes to Dex-cool vs. Green, I run Dex-cool. People blame Dex for eating away at gaskets (which it does when its abused). It eats away at plastic gaskets after 100k miles. Green isnt as acidic but does need to be changed more often. If you stick with Dex, flush every 80k to be on the safe side. It's not as bad as people make it sound, it's just people over look basic maintenance and blame the coolant at the issues.
 
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