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Project Turbo Parts car !

TwinV6GTP

New member
We are doing a budget turbo build for my own fun here at the shop. The idea is to spend as little as possible and have some fun at the same time.
This exercise is basically to find a way to make decent power with using the least amount of aftermarket parts as possible.

So for this project, we took mainly parts that were laying around the shop. The priciest item in the build is the GTX3076 turbocharger good for 600HP on a 4 cylinder engine.
It is not the ideal turbo however it will probably be good for my 100% stock 3.8 with stock stall converter. it will make it easy to spool up.
I'm using stock fuel injectors with higher fuel pressure and high pressure fuel pump and a small fuel cell. Of course higher pressure comes with an adjustable regulator.
Methanol injection at 70% meth to 30% water will help add more fuel to the mix to make 500HP+
Yes injector duty will be very high.

We have the full 3" exhaust I had made for my 12 sec street tire grand prix. With the V-band I will be able to switch to a small straight pipe out of the hood if I decide to ditch the street sound for a few extra tenths !

I used a 2005 Grand Prix intake manifold for this build to improve distribution in the cylinders. I didn't like the opening on the supercharger intake, it favors the middle cylinders.
I will tell you that I will be going with the simple block off plate next time or build a new top manifold from scratch. It was not worth the hassle...

We had to make a TB adapter plate from scratch

Took a lot of weight out of the car. used my new mechanic for this job. I can't believe how much we took out. We weighed everything, although we didn't put it on paper, it has to be at least 500lbs.
using a momo seat as well.

It will be first tuned on the street and then mainly used at the drag stip. But I will try to keep a "street" aspect to it. I don't want it looking like a Pro car because it isn't. No where near the budget.
The total cost of the build so far without the labor counted (lots of hours) is around 4000$ including the car. Most of which can be transferred to the real race car (twin engine) once we are done.













Noticed the welded up injector ports in the 05 N/A intake. Lots of mods in that intake. added bungs with fittings for vacuum and boost lines.
Improved PCV function as well.

 


Up pipe you mean

The reason its like this is to allow a 3" pipe it was very hard fitting more than 2.5 in the place the usual turbo kits exit

Also it allows a quick removalnof exhaust and using a small straight pipe out of the hood


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What are you going to bolt the fuel rails down to since the stock supercharged ones use the bolt holes on the supercharged LIM? Or do the na mounting points work with supercharged rails?
 
What are you going to bolt the fuel rails down to since the stock supercharged ones use the bolt holes on the supercharged LIM? Or do the na mounting points work with supercharged rails?

He already plugged the NA ports.. see the paper towel?
 


improved pcv function? you mean deleted it right?

on the na lim you just have to drill and tap one of the unthreaded stand boss' or the zzp vc mounted setups
 
What are you going to bolt the fuel rails down to since the stock supercharged ones use the bolt holes on the supercharged LIM? Or do the na mounting points work with supercharged rails?

No the injectors go in the head. The ports were welded shut on the N/A LIM.

There are 2 PCV ports now on my setup. Trying to get as much pressure out of the crankcase as possible.
The engine runs well but it's got around 120K miles.
 
We did a lot of progress today. The wastegate set up is done and it's very cool. Great job by our team. I have pictures on my Surface 2 but I left it at work.
Intercooler piping is done, exhaust is almost complete. another day and it will be running, then day after it's running we should be testing and tuning.
But we aren't touching it until Monday.
 
No the injectors go in the head. The ports were welded shut on the N/A LIM.

There are 2 PCV ports now on my setup. Trying to get as much pressure out of the crankcase as possible.
The engine runs well but it's got around 120K miles.

so your going to use a fan/pump with a catchcan?

none of the oem system will work. even with the supecoupe pcv valve thats supposed to prevent backflow youll end up forcing boost pressure into the crankcase.

only good options are a pcv delete (fill pcv valve with rtv) with just a crankcase vent

or a fan/pump with a crankcase vent/accumulator tank to end up with a possitive flow crankcase vent.

if yer rings arent totally shot the natural crankcase vent works just fine
 


I just deleted my PCV as well, also with the smaller brake booster fitting the 3" downpipe is cake.

IMG_0519.jpg

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i cut the bottom of the twistlock bracket on the booster and shoved a 3/16ths block of sleel in there and welded it, moved the master up an inch for a much nicer turbo/dp package
 


It ALWAYS amazes me how much work is involved in making a turbo kit and preparing a car for racing.
After all the weight reduction, the intake modification, the turbo kit construction the electronics in the car.

Here's what is left... we already have a lot of hours in the cars... I mean we spent a good part of the week on it.

Here's the To do list for just getting to start the engine, I'm most likely forgetting a lot of things in the list...

B = Ben
J = Jason
S = Sean


Monday June 8th to do list:
That's all I can think of at the moment.
When you are done at noon let me know I will find something else to do LOL


B:
Things to order (buy):
*Tru-Boost if we don't have one in stock
*more Spark plugs TR6 if available if not TR55 (stock) plugs
*Supercharger belt for blue 07 GTP (check number on belt)
*buy fuel filter at Napa for the red GTP X 3
*Order filter big enough for the turbo or modify a 3" air filter
* Order more 2.5" aluminum elbows 90 45 and straight.
* Order Silicone Couplers 2.5


Ben 2000 GTP turbo:


S * Install Alternator bracket and coolant elbows


S * Drain Oil


S * add cheap oil and change filter


S * Add coolant with deionized water


S * Install Battery tray and battery


BS * Compression test to be sure


S * Install drive belt


BS * Gap stock plugs and install them.


SJ * clean and lip intercooler pipes


S * Clean intercooler (who knows how long it's been sitting)


JB * complete intercooler piping


J * connect/weld exhaust under the car.


J *Install WB02 sensor and stock sensor.


JB * install PCV filter on oil cap on valve cover.


J * Complete fuel tank/ fuel pump set up


J *Plumb oil inlet around firewall for the turbocharger


J * PLumb oil return to the oil pan


B * Modify and plumb fuel rail


JB * install fuel pressure regulator adjustable


JB *Change thermostat to 195F if possible (if available, order gasket too)


SJ *check where the leak on the power steering is and see if it can be fixed


easily


JB Final install throttle body


SJB Install Air intake sensor in tract or closer up front of the car.




Less important list of things to do:


JB Fix head light that is loose (ball joint disconnected)
SB Install Gauges in GTP
B Install computer in dash


Later in the week:


Blue 07 GT:
JB *improve exhaust flow and install two Super Quiet exhaust
JB *Cold air intake (cut into body if we have to)
 
Went through most of the list today ... We are very close to running now.

I modified the fuel rail so I could thread them 1/8 npt and use barbed nipples on them. Seems like it's going to work all we need is fuel pressure to see if it's 100% leak free.
Pretty cool I don't have to buy new rails. Also using stock MAF for now but I have a LQ4 that I will install once I got above the stock MAF flow capabilities.

Anyone have the new LQ4 calibration map to put into HP tuners ?
 
No the piping has been all lipped now and will hold up. We are use to putting 50 lbs + of boost in Snowmobiles so we have a few tricks when it comes to prevent that kind of thing.
We are going to run less than 25 psi most likely so I don't expect issues.
We use stainless (good) worm clamps too, not a big fan of the T-bolt clamps.
It's all in the torque and the position of the clamp and the quality of the lip on the tube. We will pressure test the whole intake tract to 25 psi before even running the car.

What does worry me a little is the intake gasket. I hope it holds up to boost.

btw the piping is not ideal but we don't usually work with 2.5" piping, we have TONS of 2.25 aluminum elbows and silicone couplers for the sleds.
And we have 3" but very little 2.5.

We took what we had so we had to do compromises to keep the initial intentions with the project (keep it cheap)
 
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