Pressure Control Solenoid(EPC), TCC, 4th Clutch Hub Replacement in the Vehicle.

[02NavyBlue]

Yeah, I saw that, I should have been more clear. I can tell what you did once you got to it, I am trying to estimate how much work it was to get it off though. Did you just have to remove the bolts that twizted painted yellow, and it comes off as one piece? I want to have a view of the accumulator like you show at 4:18 in your vid, but I don't want to pull apart any more than I have to.

I basically want to change the PCS, but while I'm in there throw in what's left (as long as it's easy, lol) of the transgo kit that I bought. I put in the pan portion already. I don't want to change the shafts or anything like that. I also don't want to risk pulling something apart that I can't get back together. I only have the one car, so if I break/loose some small parts while I'm in there I'm kinda screwed.

I want to do the boost valve and pressure regulator spring that are in the kit as well, and can't figure out if I need to remove the valve body to do it. If it turns out that I can do the boost valve and pressure regulator spring without removing the boost valve, and doing the the 4th accumulator is a bigger job than I planned I may just skip that part.

Thanks for the video btw. It's really helpful

Yes, all of the yellow bolts come off, as well as the pump bolts. There will be two more behind the pump that have to come off. Also he forgot to mark one bolt under the shift solenoid at the top left of the channel plate. I figured that out on my own.

What year is your car? and how many miles? Ever had a rebuild? I'm wondering if you have the hardened splines on your 4th clutch hub. I'm assuming not since the hub and pcs design got changed around the same time. And if it's fine, I wouldn't suggest removing the channel plate just to add two springs in the 4th accumulator. It's a decent amount of extra work and money for something like that on your first time.

If you're doing the boost valve, you have to remove the valve body from the channel plate. This means exposing 4 check balls. It can be done while still in the car, on the channel plate, but it's easier on a table. Is it bad or need to be replaced or something?

"If it turns out that I can do the boost valve and pressure regulator spring without removing the boost valve" < I'm assuming you meant valve body or channel plate at the last part? You will have to remove the valve body. The channel plate doesn't have to come out, but you'd be working with it on its side since its bolted to the trans.

So basically the channel plate only has to come off for the 4th accumulator, and 4th clutch hub. I would only remove it for doing the 4th clutch hub if you need it(or it should be done) Mine did so I did the shift kit while I was there.

 

[jasonderricko]

What year is your car? and how many miles? Ever had a rebuild?

It's an 04 comp g with 95000 miles on it. It has never been rebuilt to my knowledge.

If you're doing the boost valve, you have to remove the valve body from the channel plate. This means exposing 4 check balls. It can be done while still in the car, on the channel plate, but it's easier on a table. Is it bad or need to be replaced or something?

If at all possible I would like to do it without exposing the check balls. It doesn't need to be replaced but below is the advice I got from Dave at TEP when I ordered the shift kit and asked him about changing the PCS:

At 94K miles and any thought of replacing the pcs solenoid I would also install the new boost valves and new pressure regulator spring in the valve body and even open up the 2nd and 3rd clutch feeds a bit since you have a GTP.

I don't plan on opening up the clutch feeds (because I don't know how), but I wanted to do the other stuff he mentioned.

"If it turns out that I can do the boost valve and pressure regulator spring without removing the boost valve" < I'm assuming you meant valve body or channel plate at the last part? You will have to remove the valve body. The channel plate doesn't have to come out, but you'd be working with it on its side since its bolted to the trans.

yeah, I meant valve body.

So should I just put the pcs in and call it a day?

 

[02NavyBlue]

I would. It's right there when the side cover comes off. You have an 04 so the 4th clutch hub is the better design, so no real need to pull the channel plate. Why are you replacing the pcs btw? I've known the 03+ style to last longer.

 

[jasonderricko]

My car shifts fine most of the time, but when trying to pass on the freeway, it revs, then bangs into third, and if this happens enough it will eventually set the 1811 code, and then all shifts will be harsh. The shift kit helped, it doesn't rev as high or bang as much, but it still does it somewhat. So yeah, I am changing it cause it was listed as the most probable cause for an 1811 code. Should I change the other solenoids while I'm in there. Could the TCC cause the problem I described?

 

[Twizted 1]

Sorry about that...Lol I thought I had all of them marked. Also you don't have to remove all of the pump bolts if your just trying to get behind the channel plate, just the two 10mm bolts on the end.
I think I forgot to mark those also.
The two under the pump don't have to be removed unless you taking the VB off.

You open up the clutch feeds by drilling specific holes in the spacer plate.

Yo I do have to remove the valvebody to get the valves out though, the clips are on the underside. And you'll expose up to 10 checkbooks if the gaskets tears when you take the VB off.

Don't be afraid to attempt it. We are here to help all we can. Go for it!