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Power Window Question

Bologna

Bologna

New member
Question stated in a simple way: Would it be easier to replace only the window motor or would it be easier to replace the whole assembly?


My window only rolls up and down sometimes when I push the button. I took the door panel off and took the switch off and put paper clips in the dark blue and brown wire slots and then hooked up 12 volts to it to make sure it wasn't the switch and it still didn't work. So I believe that it's the motor and I was just wondering if I should buy only the motor or would it be really hard to just replace the motor? I plan on going to the local junkyard to pick up the part.

Thanks,
Kyle

Car: 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 2 door coupe
 


If you're on your original regulator, get a new one.

I have a '98 with 140k miles and I've replaced 3/4 of mine. All replacements are new with lifetime warranties.
 
SJAndrew said:
If you're on your original regulator, get a new one.

I have a '98 with 140k miles and I've replaced 3/4 of mine. All replacements are new with lifetime warranties.
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I'm not really sure because I just bought the car last week haha. It's a 97 with 156k miles though.

Is it harder to just replaced the motor?

EDIT: Also replacing the whole thing doesn't do much if I'm getting the parts from a junkyard anyways because they will just go bad too and who's to say that they will be in better shape than mine.
 
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I don't think the JY will allow you to buy the motor separate anyway.

The regulator failure point is almost always the cable. It will get bound in the pulley and then get trashed.

Just get a new one...trust me.
 
just get the whole new regulator, its only a few bolts to replace it, and you would have to remove it to change the motor on it, and the cables do wear out and jam up.
 
Alright, I decided to buy new anyways because it is $46 brand new on ebay and $75 used from a junk yard lol.

Thanks guys
 


Bologna said:
Alright, I decided to buy new anyways because it is $46 brand new on ebay and $75 used from a junk yard lol.

Thanks guys
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For $46, your new one is also a piece of junk. Sorry to bring the bad news. The $75 part from a junk yard is probably assuming a used OEM part. My cost at the dealer is about $150-ish and it's money well spent. I have a 4 door body.

Just notice you have a 2 door model - wow, $46? Not a chance.
 
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i had both my gmc trucks door regulators replaced 2 times by the dealer, after the warranty the pass side went out again, the ebay one out lasted the dealer one.

i had manual windows but the mechanics are all the same. the cable fails, or the plastic rollers fail and eat the cable.
 
You guy know.. the biggest issue is probably lack of lube and then the ball pulls through the plastic. Bonne guys have made up metal to put in there. I'm thinking I might figure it out for W bodies.
 
i used to spray everything down best i could with anything wd-40 to silicone spray, then switched to graphite spray for locks, that stuff is slick. and works well.
 
scottydoggs said:
i used to spray everything down best i could with anything wd-40 to silicone spray, then switched to graphite spray for locks, that stuff is slick. and works well.
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I've got some silicone spray that I used on my Jeep that worked really well. I plan on lubing it up really good before using it.


And the junkyard might be better but then again it is used and you can't predict how long it would last.
 


I put one of the cheapie window regulators (from RockAuto) in mine. It lasted about 8 months.

I've sinced replaced witha Dorman from Checker and it's basically the same as OEM whereas the cheapie had a plastic return pully assembly.

The cheapo you got from ebay will work, for a little while. When it breaks (it will break), replaced it with a good one.

The Dorman from Checker has a lifetime warranty.
 
SJAndrew said:
I put one of the cheapie window regulators (from RockAuto) in mine. It lasted about 8 months.

I've sinced replaced witha Dorman from Checker and it's basically the same as OEM whereas the cheapie had a plastic return pully assembly.

The cheapo you got from ebay will work, for a little while. When it breaks (it will break), replaced it with a good one.

The Dorman from Checker has a lifetime warranty.
Click to expand...


Alright, I will keep that in mind. Thanks
 
BillBoost37 said:
You guy know.. the biggest issue is probably lack of lube and then the ball pulls through the plastic. Bonne guys have made up metal to put in there. I'm thinking I might figure it out for W bodies.
Click to expand...

Let me know if you need help with drawings or getting some pieces made. I can probably help.

I'm not crazy about the aftermarket ones either, no matter the cost. After comparing the operation of a new OEM part to a +$130 aftermarket part, I'll never buy aftermarket on one of these again.
 
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