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Parking brake shoe replacement

rallyedave

rallyedave

New member
Fellow Grand Prix owners, I have 2001. Do you have to remove the rear axle/wheel bearing assy. to replace the shoe ring assy. My parking brake was left on by the previous owner and driven that way one too many times so I am trying to replace the shoes. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, Dave.
 


Remove the whole brake assembly the the hub bolts, you have to remove the hub with the parking brake assembly to get to it. To remove the hub it's held on by 4 bolts that are behind the studs, you'll notice holed in the stud plate. Use those to get to the hub bolts, after you have done that it's a little tough to get the hub out as it's likely semi-pressed into the knuckle. I managed to use a hammer and a couple of screwdrivers to get it out. And don't forget to unplug the ABS sensor on the backside before you remove it. Then all you have to do is revome a small plate for the cable on the backing plate to take everything apart.
 
Sandman, I am down to getting the hub separated from the knuckle. I have been trying to use leverage by driving a sharp pointed chisel between the backing plate and the knuckle. I have a very small gap now, but like you say it, must be a close tolerance fit because it's not coming out easily. What a PITA. Any other suggestions? What does the manual (that I don't have) say? Thanks, Dave.
 
I has to replace some of the studs on the back and I got lucky taking it off. I was about to remove the whole knuckle/hub assembly and put it in a vice. While hitting out the strut bolts the hub just fell out. So I'd let it sit in some WD-40 or PB Blaster and give it some taps with a hammer. I also read somewhere that a slide hammer works out pretty well.
 


Here is a link for adjustment. Brads0138 has a practical way to do it if you have enough adjustment left on the rear cable. Headnsouth has the procedure if there is no more cable adjustment left to give you engagement after 2 clicks on the pedal. Adjusting Emergency Brake on 2003 GP GT?? - Car Forums and Automotive Chat
Bottom line is that you want 0.38mm (.015 in) clearance between the parking brake shoes and the drum in the rotor. Make sure to depress the parking brake a few times to equalize the rear cable between the rotor drums. With a fully released brake and cables and springs attached (if you replaced the shoes) do the following: I took a pair of calipers and measured the inside drum diameter, then subtracted .030 in. (0.015 inch per side, not much) and used that measurement on the caliper to set the shoe diameter by rotating the cogged adjuster nut. You basically want to have no drag at fully released pedal to drag at 2 clicks on the pedal. I took pictures and will post the process when time permits. Cheers, Dave.
 
Thanks Sandman, I got the hubs out. Used Kroil at the backing plate and around the knuckle hole at the anti-lock sensor. At the caliper cutout corners, I tapped the backing plate to rotate it and break the surface bond. If you don't have slide hammer handy, use a putty knife at the four corners to create a gap to leverage out the knuckle evenly on all four sides. This resulted in very little raised metal that had to be filed from the face of the knuckle after hub removal. The problem was 122,000 miles of dirt, water, and corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and steel hub locating diameter. I cleaned all of these surfaces and greased them so it won't be a problem next time.
 
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