• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

OK welp i guess I'll be THAT guy....

ntreftz

ntreftz

Too broken to be broke $$
I don't want to be that guy.. but i guess I will show some ignorance since I cant find the answer.
I've asked a question that seems to go un-answered.. so I made this simple thread.

Why do our cars' ignition system disagree with platinum plugs?
 


I've always been told that its because our ignition system uses a waste spark ignition, each coil pack fires both plugs at the same time and somehow it eats the plugs doing it that way. This is just from what I have read/been told.
 
Found this...

might help explain it...

Platinum wire plugs are the worst, because the wire burns away. This not only makes for a difficult spark at the plug, but it also causes the spark to hunt for a different route, such as through the coil winding insulation, which destroys the ignition coils. Some say that platinum or iridium tipped plugs affect the system because they have a higher resistance than copper or steel. However, the difference in resistance is minimal as far as the spark is concerned. The boot terminal is also usually aluminum on most spark plugs, and this offers a far higher resistance than copper or steel. The spark wires and internal spark plug resistor offer far more resistance than the spark plug tip. The wires measure from 5 to 10k each, and the internal plug resistor is typically from 1 to 5k. The difference in metal resistances, in that small amount, is less than an ohm, and should affect the system in no noticeable way.

The harder metals tend to hold their shape longer, and keep a sharp edge, which promotes a better spark over a longer period of time. However, the basic conventional plugs have been proven to work the best with the least question as to whether or not they will function properly. They do require more periodic maintenance (file and gap) and/or replacement, but consistently work well.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you for the help. If you have read my ride thread I've been having misfired under load. Followlink in my Sig and see if you think this is my problem
 


Probably because you haven't enabled your signature to post from your phone.

Could be a plethora of things related to the miss though...

If you've replaced: Spark plugs/wires/PCV/LIM gaskets/fluids/filters and if you've ruled out a bad coil pack/injector/ICM...then check for vacuum leaks.

You've got a live feed scanner...read the fuel trims (LTFT's)...if they're pegged @ 16.4, then that's a vac leak. If you are only getting the miss under load I'd lean towards a clogged cat.
 
Not the cat, I cut a portion off the other day thinking it caused the mis. Then I re-attached a patch after I ran it and it still had the miss. I just replaced the plugs, ill throw the ugly picture up tomorrow. I got some new delco's and now I have a dead battery and I'm assuming from the mis is now from a alternator that couldn't keep up with the power demanded...
 
not the alternator... crap battery...
here's the scans



key on after running



LTFT's 16.4 but fluctuate downward when gas is depressed



plug's 1 & 3



plug #4

 
since the plugs were changed last night the mis has changed completely, as in its a stutter like excess fuel is being tossed in the mix and simply cannot burn it out fast enough...
I don't know I'm just guessing at this point
 


I found the bit-o-electrode when I cut the cat I didn't know what it was at the time. there was nothing else before the cat in the pipe. if it was chipped would there not be debris in there as well?
 
what about if one or two injectors were stuck on full blast all the time? what would that make the pos do?
 
Flood it, honestly.

And no, it won't always have debris. Especially if it gets hot enough.

Borescope it. Or leakdown/comp. test it. Easy way to find out there.
 


I replaced all the vacuum lines on Monday. sprayed everything down with carb cleaner no spikes.
 
I had zero knock at wot at the time the misfire started, even still I don't drop below 15* timing. If I had a chipped piston wouldn't the electrode be bent not burnt? not dis-agreeing with that being a possibility, I'm just thinking of all the possibilities
 
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