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Noobie to nitrous looking for any tips on not blowing anything up!!

suitercrew

suitercrew

New member
Hey guys I got a wet nitrous kit yesterday and am planning on installing it either later today or tomorrow and I just wanted to know if there's anything I need to watch out for. For example obviously running lean. Also "Nitrous backfire" how does that even happen and what can I do to make sure it doesn't happen? Thanks everyone.

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Need more info,. Like mods list? how big of shot?, any way to read A/F ratios with wide band or to tune with.

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Don't spray if you have kr.

As long as you are spraying through the blower, you won't have any backfire problems.

Just make sure your nitrous lines are empty before you shut the engine off. Do not charge your line unless the engine is running.
 
GTPpower said:
Don't spray if you have kr.

As long as you are spraying through the blower, you won't have any backfire problems.

Just make sure your nitrous lines are empty before you shut the engine off. Do not charge your line unless the engine is running.
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So basically shut the bottle off and get 1 last play run in?

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2000GTP243 said:
Need more info,. Like mods list? how big of shot?, any way to read A/F ratios with wide band or to tune with.

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Click to expand...
Looking to add a 50-75 shot. I do have a wideband. I do have access to a tuner. Mod list is fwi, ported tb, supercharger, lim. Fsic. E54, headers w/ downpipe. 1.9 roller rockers. L36 bottom end. Aem 320 lph, caspers rewire, 60# injectors, 2.8 pulley, normally 19.5* timing. Currently running 17* for summer safety. Probably a bunch if other stuff I'm forgetting.

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suitercrew said:
Looking to add a 50-75 shot. I do have a wideband. I do have access to a tuner. Mod list is fwi, ported tb, supercharger, lim. Fsic. E54, headers w/ downpipe. 1.9 roller rockers. L36 bottom end. Aem 320 lph, caspers rewire, 60# injectors, 2.8 pulley, normally 19.5* timing. Currently running 17* for summer safety. Probably a bunch if other stuff I'm forgetting.

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Click to expand...

How do you wanna run it? With a button or wot switch? Are you planning on spraying through the shifts. A fuel pressure safety switch and window switch are a few things you might look into.

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2000GTP243 said:
How do you wanna run it? With a button or wot switch? Are you planning on spraying through the shifts. A fuel pressure safety switch and window switch are a few things you might look into.

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My kit didnt come with an activation method so I'm open to ideas all though I was thinking wot switch because there pretty cheap compared to a 200$ controller

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suitercrew said:
My kit didnt come with an activation method so I'm open to ideas all though I was thinking wot switch because there pretty cheap compared to a 200$ controller

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A wot switch isn't bad but with an automatic your gonna be spraying through the shifts and how these tranny are isn't a good idea. Spraying at too low of an rpm could also cause a nitrous backfire.
With a window switch you can set an rpm to start spraying and stop, ex on at 3000rpm and shut off before the shift and once 3000 hits again it's on spray again. Mad makes a nice digital one and they have some that take pills. Or just get a button and let go between ****s LoL.

A bottle warmer is a good idea too, bottle pressure is important.

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suitercrew said:
So basically shut the bottle off and get 1 last play run in?

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Click to expand...

Purge it or crack the line open with a wrench.

Use a wot switch. If for some reason you don't want to spray right off the line, you can keep the system unarmed and then arm it when you are ready to spray.

Use your tuner to pull timing during shifts. A window switch isn't a bad idea though. The problem with them is when the nitrous kicks back in, it's probably just as hard on the trans as it would be shifting with nitrous.

And x2 on a bottle heater. You will never have any consistency without one otherwise.
 


GTPpower said:
Purge it or crack the line open with a wrench.

Use a wot switch. If for some reason you don't want to spray right off the line, you can keep the system unarmed and then arm it when you are ready to spray.

Use your tuner to pull timing during shifts. A window switch isn't a bad idea though. The problem with them is when the nitrous kicks back in, it's probably just as hard on the trans as it would be shifting with nitrous.

And x2 on a bottle heater. You will never have any consistency without one otherwise.
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Ok as far as timing goes should I just pull a degree or two out right around the rpms it shifts at?

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Also I'm totally mind f*cked and I need help. This kit I got was missing lines from the solenoids to the fogger. I thought just to buy 3an hose but I drove 30 miles to a hose shop and apparently the fogger and fitting on the solenoids are compression fittings so I have no idea what hose to get or if I should just switch to an fittings. This kit originally came with 1 hard line on the fuel solenoid out so I'm assuming this kit was originally for a carb setup. Also I had to swap the "in" fitting on the nitrous solenoid because it was a compression fitting but the long 14ft hose that came with the kit was a standard 4an. So basically this is a whole clusterf*ck. So basically can I switch all the fitting to an or do I need to keep the compression fitings on the fogger because the jets won't fit in an an fitting? What hose do I buy for compression fittings?

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Ok I think I figured it out. I forgot about the jets that go into the fogger. So a standard 3an hose will fit correct? So I just need to swap out the compression fittings on the solenoid to 3an

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Yup, you got it. The jets turn it into the an style fitting.

As far as timing goes, rule of thumb is 1° for every 50 shot. If you are spraying a 75, I'd pull 2.
 
GTPpower said:
Yup, you got it. The jets turn it into the an style fitting.

As far as timing goes, rule of thumb is 1° for every 50 shot. If you are spraying a 75, I'd pull 2.
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Ok cool, so now all I need is to connect fuel. So I just have to swap a 4an fitting onto the fuel solenoid and then take out the Schrader valve in the fuel rail and connect a 4an hose correct?

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One of the wrong fittings I pulled from the solenoid had a little filter in it. After some research its apparently an n20 filter? Do I need to get another fitting with a little screen like that or does it not really matter?

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It's a good idea. Getting contaminants in there is what causes solenoids to stick. I never used one, but with a used kit like you have, I think it's a good idea.

And yes, just pull the Schrader valve and hook up your fuel line.
 
GTPpower said:
It's a good idea. Getting contaminants in there is what causes solenoids to stick. I never used one, but with a used kit like you have, I think it's a good idea.

And yes, just pull the Schrader valve and hook up your fuel line.
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I think ill just buy one of the inline filters. I would assume it would do a lot better of a job then just 1 little screen. Also I have been trouble figuring out what jets to use. I finally emailed holley\nos and they replied with a list of 3 jets for gains between 35-75 which is nice but I just remember now I have to recalculate since I'm running e54. So should I just add like 15% to the uet sizes they gave me?

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