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New Project: 1989 Fullsize V10/K5 Blazer

Ghost99GT

New member
I alluded to it in my GP thread. Traded my GP off yesterday for this 1989 K5 Blazer. Specs are:

350 that was originally TBI that's been converted to 4bbl Edelbrock Carb and Performer RPM intake
700r4 that shifts excellent
New Process 241 T-case that is gonna need a new chain to have 4x4
10 bolts front and rear
Quad Shock Front End
Chrome Wheels with 33x12.50R15LT BFG Mud Terrains
New Mile Marker Hubs
New Front Wheel Bearings
New Front Pads
New Front Brake Hoses
New Rear Brake Hoses
New Rear Shoes
New Rear Shoe Hardware
New Wheel Cylinders
New A/C Compressor, Accumulator, Hoses
Flowmaster Super 40
Starter
Power Windows, Power Locks, it's gonna need a passenger side window motor, rear window rolls up and down

I'm sure there is other things I'm missing, but that's all I can remember off the top of my head. Right now it needs tuned badly, it smokes not cause it's burning oil but cause it's so damned rich! The guy daily drove it, how he did IDK, rear u-joint is popping bad, trans needs a flush and new filter and fluid, engine is leaking oil from just about every gasket! I wanted to swap the front clip for a 1973-1979 front clip as I love the round head light front end of those years, but I've grown to like this 1989 Silverado Package front end! It's got some rust, nothing too bad that I can't either cut out and weld new back in or buy the whole piece like the fenders, etc. Gonna have to replace the exhaust manifolds as the passenger side is cracked and the driver's isn't much farther away from being cracked, gonna go with headers and have them run duals with the other Flowmaster Super 40 I got with the Blazer.

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It's slowly gonna be fixed up, starting with getting the thing running better than it is now, then sealing the Engine, trans front pump seal is leaking so I gotta do that, then fixing the t-case, the Chain is $87.50 from American Powertrain Warehouse and the T-Case can be rebuilt with nothing more than a socket set and a pair of snap ring pliers. I also got a spare set of wheels and a 33x12.5 for a spare.
 


i bet those tires hum like crazy. i had the trail bfg's and oh boy. the a/t's had a hum but much less of it.

my brother had 35's on his 85. but also had 4 inch lift and a 2 inch body kit.
 
i bet those tires hum like crazy. i had the trail bfg's and oh boy. the a/t's had a hum but much less of it.

my brother had 35's on his 85. but also had 4 inch lift and a 2 inch body kit.

They don't hum too bad, not near as bad as the 17's I had on a Dodge we had at one time. I like that hum sound they make anyway! The only part I hate is the tires rubbing the front fenders a bit, I don't wanna cut them so I'm thinking I'm gonna see where they are hitting and massage it with a dead blow hammer a little bit.
 
The only part I hate is the tires rubbing the front fenders a bit,

This is what I was wondering. I had 31x10.50-R15's on my '85 and '81 k5 and they were close, but never rubbed.

Have you checked your mileage yet? Curious how much it improves after the tune up.
 


This is what I was wondering. I had 31x10.50-R15's on my '85 and '81 k5 and they were close, but never rubbed.

Have you checked your mileage yet? Curious how much it improves after the tune up.

I drove about 45 miles round trip yesterday, 30 or so to drive it home and 15 or so to take my brother to work, it used 1/8 of a tank in that estimate, the speedo is 5MPH slow, I had the speedo at 65MPH on the highway and according to my DigiHUD app on my phone it was doing 70MPH.
 
Just went and checked the Air/Fuel screws.. left one(passenger side screw)was out 1 3/4 turns, right one was out 3 turns... amazing it freaking ran down the highway! Both are now out 1 1/2 and instead of it cranking a few seconds then smoking its ass off when it starts it started on two cranks and had a bit of smoke. Buttoned everything up started it to roll my windows back up and no smoke. Runs better, still a little rich as the timing needs set, once I get a Vac gauge I'll set the Air/Fuel a bit better!
 


i always just turned them screws in till it almost dies then open em up till it runs smoother. you can also open them up till it starts to flood out and close em back up till its smooth, noting the turns of course. from in all the way to out. find that happy middle of the road it likes.

smoke out the tail pips is likely valve seals gone bad. if its real bad after sitting over night, v/s for sure.
 
It's a bit valve seals. It didn't smoke at all after I adjusted the Air/Fuel and it smoked it's ass off all day yesterday with them not adjusted properly, I believe part of it was the screws and part of it is needing stem seals. I usually just adjust to factory setting, 1 1/2 turns out from closed, then adjust from there.
 
Looks like fun! Any plans for it? Once it's brought back to glory of course.

Repaint and a mild 355, I don't wanna go all out and stroke a 400 SBC... I'll just keep her mild and enjoy her!

I love how those ride with the 4 shocks up front. so smooth.

Until they get worn out, like these are, then it's like riding in a Wagon... Same way my Uncle's Scout II feels as it needs shocks bad..
 


Nice truck! We got an '84 C10 on a 3/4 ton frame, 38 inch tires, fairly built 350 with flat top pistons and Vortec 207 heads. The paint is kinda rough, but there's not a bit of rust anywhere (weird considering where I live). Hard to find them nice anymore, great find!
 
Thanks all!

It's still running rich, dieseled on me today worse than it did yesterday, tomorrow before work I'm gonna retard the timing and see if that doesn't fix it. Make sure everything is on TDC and check my rotor then go from there.

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
 
Good looking truck! I've got a 1990 K5 that's my current project. I also love the older 73-79 front ends, but the 89-91 one has grown on me.

I'm working on a full convertible swap for mine, and planning on a 5.3 swap in the future.

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-Rob
 
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