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New GXP owner with a few questions.

comatoast

comatoast

New member
Just picked a 2006 gxp last Saturday and have a few questions.

When tuning out DOD/AFM „ can it simply just be deleted, while leaving stock lifters and cam in?

What should be done after that is done? Any seafoam, decarbonization of sorts, or something that could clean up the ( more than likely ) gummed up cylinders

Is there any good diy intake for this that makes a noticeable difference, without dropping $300 on a k&n or aem.

I know TEP makes a excellent trans ( street/strip version ) , which I will decide on next spring, if I am going to buy or not.. but would there be any benefit to adding a cooler to the current ( stock ) trans ?

Anything else I should be aware of in the car? Common issues , maintenance tips etc?

Love the car but needs some maintenance , which is what I'm trying to get caught up on.

Few pics.
 


definatly a benefit to adding a cooler to the trans, id say ad a shift kit too, as for the intake, just piece something together off ebay, cheaper than k&n or aem and still the same results really.
 
170k miles. Got a great deal on it. Interior and exterior are in excellent shape. No major dings or scratches. Very clean overall. Underneath as well.

Only reason I'm doubting putting a shift kit in it is because if I buy the TEP trans for $1800 that will be more than enough .. apparently to 400 whp/wtq..

Trans runs about 190* in average city driving. Don't know if that's bad or good.

Other than the trans removing dod and getting a full street tune seem to be the most suggested thing. When removing the dod and tuning also suggested I do a decarbonizing as the 4 cylinders that just float while dod is activated are more than likely gummed up..
 
Hey man how are u. So 190 on the trans is good. If it goes over 200 regularily then tranny cooler.
As for DoD there's other ways to turn it off without a tune but it'll throw an SES code. If u have any questions about the GXP myself or 91Parkave can help u out a ton

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I have a set of VC gaskets I can give u for cheap. Basically shipping. But new VC gaskets are only 13 bucks.

And that cooler should work fine

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Sweet. Any certain plugs and wires that work well with these cars? Msd/NGK is a nice setup on the ls1 but this is completely different
 
NGK TR6IX are by far the best for these engines. Their one heat range cooler and way better than stock

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comatoast said:
170k miles. Got a great deal on it. Interior and exterior are in excellent shape. No major dings or scratches. Very clean overall. Underneath as well.

Only reason I'm doubting putting a shift kit in it is because if I buy the TEP trans for $1800 that will be more than enough .. apparently to 400 whp/wtq..

Trans runs about 190* in average city driving. Don't know if that's bad or good.

Other than the trans removing dod and getting a full street tune seem to be the most suggested thing. When removing the dod and tuning also suggested I do a decarbonizing as the 4 cylinders that just float while dod is activated are more than likely gummed up..
Click to expand...
so...to add on..get the shift kit. Get the shift kit...get the shift kit.. You will be waiting for a WHILE to get your tep trans even shipped to you. Try to make the stock trans last. The fluid and filter change are a must as well and while you're in there add the additional trans pan magnet.

Get the tune done as well. And seafoam that ****er will take care of any other issues. And the DOD cylinders don't gum up cause there's no fuel or spark to them while dod is in operation.
 
91parkave said:
so...to add on..get the shift kit. Get the shift kit...get the shift kit.. You will be waiting for a WHILE to get your tep trans even shipped to you. Try to make the stock trans last. The fluid and filter change are a must as well and while you're in there add the additional trans pan magnet.

Get the tune done as well. And seafoam that ****er will take care of any other issues. And the DOD cylinders don't gum up cause there's no fuel or spark to them while dod is in operation.
Click to expand...


Heres the thing.. The trans feels like it shifts ok, but it feels... Mushy? not solid, shifts .. Also, Lets say Im on a flat road.. Shift into drive and let off the brake , the car wont roll forward without throttle.. Sometimes it feels like it has a stall in it.. Hard to explain, and possibly hard to understand , I know. But I cant get it to the trans shop for a while, and didnt wanna dump alot of $$ into it with a drain n fill , filter, shift kit and a tune ( which I hear really changes how a trans will perform ) when the trans is going out anyways .. Yea, Im sure the shiftkit will transfer over, as will the tune, But wont adding more line pressure to an already weak trans with a possible valve body on the outs make things worse?



As far as the Tune goes, I will be having it tuned by Carl Thomas from Lancer Service in St Paul.. From what I hear he IS Mr. LSx... He told me the LS4 is horribly restricted with the intake and Manifolds but a tune will benefit the car greatly... Any comments on what I should be able to expect out of an intake, tune, shift kit, Deleting dod etc etc as far as performance? I am by no means trying to make this a rocket, thats what the WS6 is for, but I would like it to open up a bit.

Any mods that are actually worth the cost per $$??
 


The more I read the more I see a must have "mod" is a catch can and trans cooler as well... as long as the trans shop gives me the OK I'll maintain all that first.. if he says its just a matter of time or something worse. I'm just gonna let it go, hope it makes it thru winter and deal with a new trans next spring.

Also you said seafoam the #*#@ out if it. But how will I know all cylinders have been heavily soaked? Would a full decarbonization at the dealer with their machine be better than a seafoam cleansing? They charge $150 do a full fuel system intake/piston treatment.
 
Here's the thing the shift kit is like 60-80bucks. 10qts of fluid and a filter about 80-100bucks.. Routine maintenance. I can tell you that these cars need a lot more line pressure to save itself. The factory tune has a ridiculous amount of slip built in.

The cleaner you keep the fluid and internals the longer it'll last.


In the end no cleaner will fully decarbonize the cylinders unless you pull the heads off and do it the old fashioned way
 
91parkave said:
Here's the thing the shift kit is like 60-80bucks. 10qts of fluid and a filter about 80-100bucks.. Routine maintenance. I can tell you that these cars need a lot more line pressure to save itself. The factory tune has a ridiculous amount of slip built in.

The cleaner you keep the fluid and internals the longer it'll last.


In the end no cleaner will fully decarbonize the cylinders unless you pull the heads off and do it the old fashioned way
Click to expand...


I see we are browsing the same threads in LS1tech.. lol


Will do ... the fluid LOOKS great.. nice pink/red color, smells fine, but not knowing what has been done, I might just do it again.. Hell the fluid and filter might have been changed 5K miles ago, but your right.. Im going to attemp to save this thing... If I could get it to last until spring of 2016 that would be a little bit more than awesome... Since I have had 3 s/c 3800s in the past Im pretty familiar with the platform, and trans .. Is there a "better" choice between trans go and Thrasher, or can it all be fine tuned in the actual tune?

I used that same catch can you had in your vid on my SRT4, was a pos, and leaked like crazy.. Ended up putting in a new drain plug and then removing the little plastic fill indicator/tube, and plugging it, then it was fine.. Ebay right? Is this a must have as well?
 
As far as the de-carbonizing goes.. Just wondering what to do.. I CAN pull the heads but if IM not changing Lifters ( and cam ) Id rather not.. Will the machine at the dealer clean the intake and top end better than a diy seafoam>?


Im not looking for miracles, just want to keep her running good
 
Running 91+ octane and either running a bunch of seafoam through it or some fuel cleaners should do the trick.

I wouldnt pull the heads if you didnt have too.
 


Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
Running 91+ octane and either running a bunch of seafoam through it or some fuel cleaners should do the trick.

I wouldnt pull the heads if you didnt have too.
Click to expand...



Yea thats what IM thinking.. Heads aren't leaking, pulls hard, ( haven't checked compression yet) and shifts ok.. Just a weird accel/powerband.. Maybe IM just not used to it.. I dunno...


COnsidering the trans cooler, shift kit, catch can and tune are all transferable , I think I know what I need to do..


I have no doubt my tuner will make the car better than it is, so I will just order the parts this weekend and go with it.

Just need to find the best cooler for the car... I see alot of the LS4 coolers are ALOT more expensive than the one Im ordering for the trans am, by about $200 for the same btu rating.. Am I missing something or is the TEP stuff better/better suited for these cars as opposed to this?

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-445-bm-24000-gvw-auxiliary-transmission-cooler.aspx

Love the car, glad to have another F-Body, to match the W.. Just cant get away from Pontiac!
 
always run 91, dumped a can of chemtool b-12 ( seafoam minus $5 in price ) in the tank.. prepping it for a cleaning lol.

couple other questions


Does it matter if I change the plugs and wires before or after seafoam/decarbonizing

should the tune come first, before anything?

Hell.. Just give me a list of what to do in order....


Seafoam decarbon
plugs wires
trans fluid, cooler, shift kit,
tune
coolant flush
catch can

... Anything else......
 
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