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New Car and Preservation Concerns (seeking advice)

younger5th

younger5th

New member
Hi all,
I'm new to these forums so let me explain my quick story:

About eight months ago I bought a 2000 (110k then 116k now) red Grand Prix GT with GTP features minus the HUD, Heated Seats, Hard Shift button, engine and trans.
Recently I was told a family friend is selling a '98 red Grand Prix GTP with 37k and garaged/babied it's entire life. It hasn't seen snow or bad weather (I live in CT) and
as far as I know, hasn't been run hard. It also hasn't had any recalls done to it which is a concern of mine but I don't think should be much of an issue...or is it? Either case,
I will most likely be selling my current Prix and buying the '98 for the "family friend price" of only $3000.

A few concerns are these:

1) What causes transmission fluid to turn color/smell? If hasn't been touched in its 37k mile life, should I flush it or just change the filter (drop the pan)....Note: stupidly I didn't check the fluid when I was there so assume it's clean.

2) I know these cars are known for glass transmissions so to speak, and have read up on the TransGo shift kit which has seems to have solved a major issue people have been having with these cars later in their life. Would it be smart of me to install this early in it's life to preserve the transmission and prevent wear? Makes sense that it would, but just checking...has anyone does this with low miles and have high miles now?
EDIT: with this mind, what are people's thoughts about performance shift. Knowing the logic/benefits behind the TG Shift Kit, it seems it's better to have it engaged at all times. Do those with GTPs do this?

3)I have seen the list of mods and buyers guide on this site, but much of that seems to be for "after the fact" while I'm interested in options that could be implemented BEFORE it's too late and i'd have to pay out the ass for repairs. (One example I suppose would be resealing the taillights and lamp sockets to prevent the renown moisture build-up).
Actually, with that said, I just remembered that I saw this somewhere "The infamous "Water in Passenger Floorboard" for 1997-2003 body style. http://www.grandprixforums.net/water_floorboard.php" but the link doesn't work. There another thread for this? Other than those what are other precautions/mods that can be implemented to keep the car running reliably?

I know there's quite a bit of questions in there but that's pretty much it for now. I think I have a rare specimen and would like to keep it in the best shape possible. Thanks in advance for the responses :)
 
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Wow, that is super low miles and a great price. I always have concerns about bearings flat spotting etc when a vehicle sits that long. That aside...let's hit your questions.

1. As clutches wear some of the material gets into the fluid. The smallest of particulates that the filter is too large to clean are what colors the fluid. Heat can also help brown it up and make it smell burnt. I doubt in that amount of miles it looks bad. The way to see how honestly clean the fluid is, would be to wipe some on a clean white paper towel or rag. I would suggest changing the trans fluid/filter via a pan drop. Do it about once a year and you'll have fresh detergents and lubricants in the fluid.

2. Glass to a degree. Abuse or high mileage is often a factor. On the TG shift kit, definately would suggest tossing it in when you drop the pan and filter. The accumulator springs/spacers are the only parts of it that can be done w/o dropping the transmission and these are commonly referred to as a shift kit. There will be a couple extra parts in the box for the valve body and case cover plate. Performance shift doesn't change a lot in the trans settings. It increases the rpm about 100-300 and may add a little change in pressure as well. Many run in perf shift all the time.

3. Here's the end all link to the part number http://www.grandprixforums.net/water-floorboard-take-2-permanent-fix-6961.html
Which is GM part is #15794785. And I agree on taking pre emptive steps to preserve the body etc. Maybe taking off the plastic rocker panel trim and using something like POR15 on the eddges and underbody.

PS, I'm in Enfield. Would enjoy seeing such a low mileage car since you seem to be kinda local.
 
BillBoost37 said:
On the TG shift kit, definately would suggest tossing it in when you drop the pan and filter. The accumulator springs/spacers are the only parts of it that can be done w/o dropping the transmission and these are commonly referred to as a shift kit.
Click to expand...

Got a little confused here. So if I buy the shift kit, the only way to install everything is to drop the transmission which is different from just dropping the pan and filter? If so, what do the other parts do that you have to drop the tranmission for?

And yeah, I got lucky with this find. Hopefully after I get (this Friday) there aren't any bad suprises. I wouldn't mind meeting up sometime...perhaps you could show me a thing or two. If you have facebook or use skype, just PM me.
 
The shift kit that everyone usually does with the TEP kit is replaced the springs and spacers that are within the accumulator, which is found after you drop the trans pan/filter.
 
Ummmm i noticed you never mention oil changes. some "babied" cars never really had the oil changed that often. My bet would be to run some sludge cleaner before you change the oil just to be on the safe side. last thing you want is for her to die an early death from lack of oil on top. Bill is right about flat spots in bearings.
 
I was going to do an oil change as soon as I got the car. The oil life on the gauge shows 55%. So if I used the cleaner, how long after should i change the oil? Any brand suggestions? Thanks.
 


the stuff i used sayed add it in the run the car at idle for 5 mins then drain out your oil remove your filter then add the new stuff(synthetic oil). It was something like this Gunk® MFD1 - Motor Flush | O'Reilly Auto Parts. They wanted you to make sure that your oil was at the full mark before you add this into the oil. When i drained the oil back out the cleaner was seperate from the oil itself. but it really worked thats what surprised me the most now all i hear is a light ticking sound like i still have gum in the engine so next oil change i will flush it again to get it perfect.
 
So you have to top off your oil first only to drain it five minutes later? Seems like a waste of oil...I'll check it out though.
 
the reason for topping it off with oil is for the extra pressure that this stuff makes with the old oil. it helps push and and all sludge out and keeps all parts coated with oil:)
 
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