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Needing help with HVAC fan not working

deathjunior

deathjunior

New member
Okay so this afternoon I was finishing up my install by running the final wire to the trunk of my car for my lights. Then after that I drove off to work. Everything seemed completely okay, the AC worked and everything. But for some reason when I got out to my car after work and turned my car on, no fans were blowing, no AC or Heat would work. I have the digital controls in my dash and they seem like they are working just fine, however myI fan won't turn on no matter what I do. Niether cold nor hot, I can feel the heat rising out of the vents but it isn't blowing at any speed at all. Any ideas cause I'm really going to need my AC in the coming months and I know my compressor is doing just find. Would really love a little help with this
 


Already did that man, seemed like the obvious first thing. The compressors still turning on. The little vent that seals off the system behind the glove box still moves and closes up. As for the fan itself I reached in and was able to twist it a bit by hand, didn't seem to be any hang ups. I don't really know where to start from here.
 
Yea I just really don't like the idea of it happening right now since I was just about to be finished with my audio system and now I get to go back in and fix something else on it. My 98 buick regal had 200K miles on it and nothing ever messed up accept for the spoiler leaking water into the trunk. No a drop of leaked oil, nothing. This car due to the previous owner has had to have a wheel replaced and it needs another. Has had 2 light bulbs replaced, trailing arms, front control arm and on of the links, the bad wheels caused a crack in my aluminum oil filter housing giving me one leek and I also have a small leak on my intake. My fuel pump assembly had to be replaced and now this. I'de imagine this would never happened if the previous owner hadn't qrecked it and in common fashion not told me about it.

How do you think I would go about diagnosing which is the culprit without buying new parts. Know of any diagrams to look at?
 


Can you get to the connector on the fan? Check it for voltage.

That final wire you mentioned; what did you tap into? I hope not the ignition switch 'cause it's not rated for any more current than factory unless you use low current relays. Many people have jacked thier ignition switch this way. One of the symptoms is a malfunctioning AC fan. Sometimes it'll only work on high and other times it won't work at all.
 
I tapped in at the 12 volt source for my interior lights as the fuse box. So I can return to stock whenever need be. I feel like it can't be a coincidence can it? I mean it did just ran and it was working for more than a day after I finished up the my LED install
 
Hmm. I really can't help you. My only suggestion would be to check for voltage at the fan and work backwards until you find the problem.
I really hate these kind of problems.
 
sounds to me like your blower motor went to crap. if you dont have a voltage meter and you have some extra wire hanging around then what i would do is pull your blower motor. its 3 screws and it comes right out. easy. take the extra wire and hold a piece on each terminal and run it to your battery posts see if it spins. or, go to your local auto parts store and just buy a new one but make sure u can return it if it "doesnt work". plug it in and leave it just sitting on the floor before you bolt it up. turn your fan on and see if it spins. if it does then bolt it up.
 
Well I had to push some stuff around when I was trying to remove a noise so I would imagine a connector came undone. I'm going to check the back of the AC control box and pull my glove box and have a look back there. I have a DMM so I'll check voltage and current where I can find it. I should mention that I also have a volt meter that I installed as a tool for my sound system in the car and my voltage is running a constant 14.8 volts which is a whole volt above its average with the engine off, and even with the engine off its still running that 14.8 for some reason so I don't know whats up with that. Makes me think somethings unhooked
 


There may be a capacitor somewhere in your sound system that is continually dischargeing even after the the alternator has stopped spinning. As you know the alternator's potential is higher in order to keep the battery charged.

Alternator = 14.5 volts
Capacitor charges to 14.5 volts
Capacitor discharge potential = 14.5 volts

I don't think this has anything to do with your problem.
 
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