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Need some help figuring this out (front end problems)

ablank37821

New member
So I am trying to figure out for sure what exactly is wrong with my 2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8l (non-S/C). When I crank it it idles fine, but when I put it in gear the passenger side vibrates pretty hard. This seems to only happen when the engine is cold. A few months back I replaced the Crank position sensor, and prior to replacing it I had the ABS light / Traction Control Light coming on and staying on after a couple of miles. Shortly after the sensor replacement I put new brake pads all around, and maybe a month after the new pads the ABS/Traction lights no longer come on, but the vibration remains. I also notice a pop when turning hard right to pull out of my drive way. I believe I have either a bad CV axle or Hub, but I want to be sure before replacing either of them. I am hoping someone here can shed a little light on this.
 


A pop to me usually is a CV joint. You probably also get a slight vibration from that side while driving as well I would think.

Also, check the motor mount as it is on that same side. If you see a bunch of black goo under it then it's shot. Not hard to replace but you do have to jack the motor up on that side to change it out. Can be done in about 1 hr. tops.
 
does it clunk when you go from park into gear?

check your end links on the sway bar, they like to crack off, that could be the clunk coming out of the driveway. or lower control arm's, the ball joint is on the lower control arm as well. its easier to just change the lca if the ball joint is bad.
 
There isn't any sounds when moving it into gear, but there is def. vibrations while driving. I have also noticed that when I put it in gear along with the vibrations it seems to be pulling harder than usual like I am giving it gas, but it is normally only when the engine is cold. The only trouble I have had with the tranny is the little gear that tell the switch the tranny is in park and unlocks the key, but it has since resolved itself apparently.
 
all you can really do is jack it up and start checking out each part, use a pry bar to see if you can get movement form the ball joint area, and the lca bushings.

with the tire still bolted on, and the tire jacked up, grab the tire at the 9 and 3 o clock positions and push and pull the tire, if the tie rods are bad you will feel it move, maybe even feel a click, when normal it should move a small amount but feel tight when rocked back and fourth.

check the sway bar ends, and the links.

if you pop your hood, start the car, and rock the steering wheel left and right, and watch the tops of the struts, if the center bolt is moving you need new strut mounts. like the whole center part that is.

while your there take a good look at your brakes, if one caliper is hanging up, aka not un clamping the rotor, the brake will drag and cause a vibration as well. warped rotors would give you a good vibration while stopping. re greasing the caliper sliders bolts usually fixes this.

and then there is always a bad axle possibility, or real bad wheel hub/bearing.
 


No problem. When you find the solution come back and update this thread so that others can learn. I hate FWD vibrations. They are the bain of my existance and I cannot wait to get my other RWD car going again, lol..
 
i had vibrations as well, i changed every last part with exception to the struts, changed the strut mounts tho, and put new tires on it, motor and trans mount, axle, all that good stuff. good part was everything i changed NEEDED to be changed, it was all shot. nice and smooth now.

you can also try rotating your tires, a bad tire will cause vibrations as well.
 
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