Need help with a few questions (L26 water pump and timing chain damper replacement)

[nik12937]

If you aren't interested in background, I numbered the questions below.

I'm getting ready to start replacing my water pump and timing damper in an hour or two, just making sure the car has cooled decently to save my already beaten and battered hands.

The water pump's pulley is a bit wobbly ( I can see the serpentine belt wiggle a bit due to it), plus it has a small leak, and occasionally makes a chirping or squeaking noise at low RPM's on cold starts.

I figured since I'll be draining fluids already, I may as well remove the few more things in order to take the timing cover off and replace the stock damper. My GP has about 95,000 miles on it so far and I figured it'd be peace of mind for when I put in some 105# valve springs and such.

I just have a few questions before I start doing this so it hopefully goes smoothly and I'll finish it tonight or tomorrow. Gotta have the baby ready for work on Monday

1. I know I have to drain the oil and coolant, and everyone refers to removing the front knock sensor after draining the radiator to mostly drain the block. Problem is the only torque wrench I have is rated for between 10-150ft/lbs, and I highly doubt that it is going to torque the sensor accurately enough for it to function correctly :/ Is there a different way to drain enough coolant to remove the timing cover? It's ok if a little spills out when I take the cover off as I'll be in my garage, so I'll just soak it up, I just don't feel like having half a gallon dump all over me and the floor... Maybe use a shop vac to blow into the thermostat opening so it comes out the lower hose? I'd be worried about pressure though...

2. Is it really necessary to lower the subframe/cradle in order to remove the timing cover? While searching through Google, a member of another forum dedicated to 3800's said it isn't necessary and can potentially damage the SIR coil (makes electrical connection to the air bag). Now I'm not worried too much about it, I'll only lower it as much as I have to, and I've got two hydraulic jacks plus four jack stands, it would just be one less step ya know?

3. Which oil pain bolts need to be removed? And do you pull the pan away at all? My engine doesn't burn or leak any oil (same oil level after 5,000 miles indicates that), I don't want to damage the gasket if it's still good, I don't have one on hand.

I apologize for the wordiness, I was really hoping to find pictures to help me out, but the only ones I found with pics were riddled with broken links :/

 

[matt5112]

1) Never bothered. I just removed the lower rad hose.

2) It's not. It is only necessary to swap the cam.

3) The five that hold the timing cover to the oil pan. It shouldn't leak. Use RTV in the corners.

 

[nik12937]

Damn, well that makes everything a ton easier!

One last thing, I just now realized that out of the huge surplus of tools here I do not have a crank pulley puller tool. Does this mean I'd better pick one up? Didn't realize that it was held on much differently than all the other pulleys...

 

[matt5112]

not only that, you need a spacer/three special bolts.

 

[Scottydoggs]

why not just change the water pump and live life to its fullest lol

i got 225,000 on my car, and changing the timing chain dampener is not even a thought in my head.

 

[nik12937]

I just don't really feel comfortable putting in higher load valvesprings without replacing it.
Edit: If it's safe to run some 105# Crow Cam springs with ER rockers then I may just save the damper I bought in case I ever need it. I just want my DD to be less sluggishly slow yet very reliable.

Here's the thing, I have this odd tick that occurs when giving the car gas and the pedals being pushed as far as you can go before the transmission downshifts. Basically when high load is put in a high gear, like 3rd or overdrive. It will get louder as well as faster with increased RPM's, but disappears when load is removed or the transmission downshifts. I can also just keep it in the gear and as soon as the RPM's get high enough to start giving good power, the noise disappears.

First I thought lifter, so I've seafoamed everything, including my crankcase twice. Didn't help, and it just doesn't seem consistent with a lifter problem. I would think even the revs it occurs at loudest should be giving more than enough oil pressure to quiet it, and if not why does it suddenly go away on downshift/with power?

Then I suspected an exhaust leak causing a tick. Well when I seafoamed the top end through the brake booster line, at no point did I find any smoke leaking out of the manifolds (the noise is clearly coming from the engine compartment).

Finally for the hell of it I took off the valve covers, inspected the push rods and rockers, and they all looked fine. Reinstalled them with reusable bolts torqued to 23 ft/lbs and ARP Ultra Torque.

So that's where I'm at, I feel like it almost has to be either the pulley wobbling at certain RPM's making the noise (which still doesn't explain why it'll make the noise under load, but when not under load at the exact same rps it doesn't), or maayybe the dampener/chain?

I kind of thought maybe the flexplate too but the symptoms once again just aren't consistent even if the noise could be. I'll figure out where it is and try to give it a peek, and pray, I heard it's a ***** for people like me (no way to raise or drop engine more than a few inches).

I'll be honest, I love my GP, but I drive it so often that after hearing this for I think about 1-2 months, I'm going ****ing insane not being able to find this god damn noise, and my frustration is finally starting to show. Doesn't help working 50 hour weeks Mon-Sat either :th_angry2: