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Need Brakes for my GXP

comatoast

New member
havent had a time to really look at it closely, but when it was on the lift I noticed that on the passanger side the rotor on the inside was reaaalllly rough, lots of grooves, while the outside was nice and smooth.. Dunno if the caliber is sticking or what.. but just looking for a good NOT racing, $500 set of pads and rotors.. But something with a good reputation.. I might need calipers too, but at the moment Im not sure whats going on with the passanger side
 


I bet they were just pad slapped in the past, that can screw rotors up pretty good.


If you want to go with NON drilled rotors (which I prefer) ask a parts store for some front brake rotors from a Buick Allure (super) with the V8. They have the same size front brakes but with just regular discs. Then grab a set of pads. You can double check rotor size if you want, but I'm 99% sure they are exacly the same.
 
Take the bolts out clean and lube the pins get some decent pads and have the rotors turned....yes you can resurface crossdrilled rotors
 
If they are grooved bad like he says they are, they are likely out of spec by now and being a minnesota car they are likely rusty and not worth it to try and keep them.
 
Thanks guys.. Yea the inside of that one is toast... Not sure why yet. I usually just "pad slap" every brake job I do and have never had a sticking caliper issue in the past... But now its time for me to actually start paying attention to the calipers. I dont really know how to do a proper brake job apparently lol
 


I'll pull them apart this weekend and see if anything looks off. Car stops great. No squeeks or grinds. All the other rotors are smooth, just the inside passenger is goofy...

Thanks. I forgot about rock auto. I was looking at some. Ebc? I believe they were ebc , for $190 for the set that looked really nice as well. Match those with some hawk pads and call it a day.

Also is it worth bringing it to a dealer to have it on a tech 2 to completely flush the system, or no? 8+ years old , and 170k miles and I'm sure it original fluid.
 
Just do it the red neck way, suck some fluid out and dump new fluid in. Drive it for a week or so and do it again.

Go drive on a dirt road or something aswell and stomp on them to cycle the ABS pump on and off a bajillion times to push new fluid around.
 
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